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Replacing Rim Joist and Plate.

16K views 28 replies 5 participants last post by  de-nagorg 
#1 ·
I have an addition which has a section of the rim joist and plate are in need of replacement. One section is on the gable end and I am fine with jacking up the joists a bit to do the repair on this side. No problem there. The problem is that the other section is parallel to the joists. My plan is to install blocking from the rim joist to the next joist every 24". Running this blocking (2x10) so it is actually under the bottom wall plate. Then I can run a beam under the blocking and, using the house jacks I have, jack up that side enough to replace the damaged rim joist and plate. I am doing this in a crawl space. I just dont see ant other way to jack up the load bearing side of this addition. I have 18' to replace on the load bearing wall side. Any thoughts out there?

Thanks
 
#2 ·
You might help the rest of us out to understand this better by adding a picture, or a diagram.

But it sounds like you may have the plan correct.


ED
 
#4 ·
I'd want to see what you mean by load bearing wall - all the way to the roof. And see whether there is parts of the house that settled.

Your blocking idea is iffy to me. The blocks will be attached to single floor joist and it will be doing all the bearing work. You are creating a cantilever on a single joist. Even though the underlayment siding (plywood or t&g) is also holding up the wall, I wouldn't guess on the single floor joist helping to bear the weight.

What is true would be working from outside, remove enough finish siding, install a header (a beam) on the wall studs, and repair the foundation plates and rims in sections. 8' double 2x6 supporting header and 4' sections would be safe enough, given average 2 story house and working time.
 
#6 ·
Yeah........I was having the same thoughts. I am not real comfortable with my course of action here so that's why I am seeking some advice.This is a single story addition and by load bearing I mean this is a outside wall supporting the roof trusses. The wall has dropped about an inch due to the deterioration from rot or possibly termite damage.
 
#8 ·
Maybe you could sister a new joist on the next joist in, and then transfer the load there until you can replace the rotted one, and put it back together.

ED
 
#16 ·
Maybe you could sister a new joist on the next joist in, and then transfer the load there until you can replace the rotted one, and put it back together.

ED
In case you missed this the first time, I am still advocating you do this or a similar attempt.

ED
 
#9 ·
I'm generally skeptical that jacking a house is DIY work, but anyway, if I were being paid to do it, and the goal was to get the entire addition level, I would run a few perpendicular beams perpendicular to the joists, the full size of the addition, if necessary poking holes in the foundation. Jack the entire addition up slightly above the desired elevation, repair foundation and rim in sections, lower house back onto new sections, remove beams, then repair foundation and rim further, tying it all together.

That's well beyond normal DIY scope, and I would hire a house lifter with hydraulics to do the lifting. Jacking a house is risky work, and it's also not clear to me that the piecemeal, wall-by-wall approach will give you a level and flat result.
 
#10 ·
if that is a bearing wall a single band would not be there only. it would be a double band or already have blocking every 16" or so back to the next joist in just like you show doing. a single band will buckle under a bearing wall and will not suffice. is it a gable wall instead?
 
#13 ·
And Hand Drive, it IS a single plate with no blocking.I know what you are saying but it was not built correctly to start with. The rim joist is starting to roll out at the bottom. The wall has sunk about an inch so far making the door diffacult to open and close. There was issues with water in the crawl space but the drainage issues have been corrected. I am fairly well versed in carpentry but this is an area where I have had little experience. If it were a gable end, no problem but this wall has me stumped as far as the best and safest way to jack it up and do the repair.
 
#17 ·
the blocking method you show originally should work for you( every 16 or 24") . I would like to add - add filler blocks between your blocks to keep them from twisting, like band blocks. put the filler blocks directly above your temp beam and as close out to the foundation as possible. the screws you use to lock in your tie back blocks should suffice to keep twist from occurring but the filler blocks will without a doubt. make all your blocking the same size as the joists.

those blocks are relying on the plywood not being bad and helping take the load for a few inches. is your plywood sub floor bad at all?
 
#14 ·
I wouldn't try to raise it back to some correct level. It is addition to a log house? Roof is also tied. I think you may have more trouble moving exterior structures that were built at different times but may have settled together. It'd be cheaper to rebuild the whole thing than hiring professional jackers.
Good thing is it is a small area. I'd remove the siding and support it from outside, wall or the rafters. Reframe the door and get the gutters as far away from the foundation.
 
#15 ·
Yes, it is an addition to a log cabin. In order to replace the damaged rim joist and plate it has to be raised. Settling isnt a concern either with the addition or the cabin itself. Foundations are as level and plumb as they were 20 years ago.THe siding has to be removed in order to tie the bottom wall plate and rim joist together. A complete rebuild isnt necessary either.
 
#20 ·
Thanks Hand drive, I would have to agree with you. I will take your advice on this and thanks again. I'll also add a sister joist as de-nagorg suggested. Can't be too careful.

Thank you both for the suggestions.
You are quite welcome. :thumbsup:


ED
 
#23 ·
OK.............got all the blocking in, 16" O/C. I located all the wall studs and placed the blocking so that it is inline with the wall studs. My blocking is under the bottom sill approx. 2". I found out today that the idiot that built this addition used 5/8 OSB as his subfloor. Really? Did you really save that much money by using 5/8 instead of 3/4? Did you? Freakin idiots!!!
 
#24 ·
Glad to hear back on this project. I appreciate being kept up to date.

Sounds like you are doing it right.

Me I would have used 3/4 plywood flooring.

That said I hope that your OSB, holds up for the long run, I have seen it deteriorate with the least amount of moisture getting on it.

Not as quick as particle board, but it still deteriorated to where I had to replace it for the need of strength reinforcement.

ED
 
#25 ·
It was a spongy floor so my father had me lay down 7/16 osb and then luan over that before they replaced the flooring. That was a good move. One other interesting item was the rim joist, being 18' long, is in 3 pieces. A short 24" section, then a 14' section and then another 24" section at the other end. I have a nice seasoned treated 2x10x20 nice and straight to install as the new rim. Treated sill plate as well. I'll post pic's during the process.
 
#26 ·
:thumbup: Everything has been going according to the plan and rather well for this kind of project. I got the wall jacked up and supported, cut the nails that attatched the wall plate to the rim joist and the old rim joist just fell out. Cut the old plate up at the anchor bolts and removed it. I notched the new plate for the anchor bolts because its not possible to lift it over them. Cut the new rim joist to length ( one beautiful piece of treated 2x10) and slid it in behind the stone step and into place. It was a perfect fit. Secured with some saberdrive screws and lowered the jacks. That was it for day one.
 

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#27 ·
:thumbup: DAY 2 : Today I tackle the plate and rim joist on the gable end. Moved the jacks into place and jacked the floor joists up about 1/2 an inch. Same process, cut the nails securing the wall place and subflooring, pulled nails that secured the rim joist into the end of the joists and she ,once again, just fell out. This side had more damage than anticipated but I was prepared. Installed the new plate in the same manner. I did have to "scab" new 2x10's to a few joists and ended up doing the same to each joist. There was a little damage to 4 of them but I decided it was worth the time to "scab" each joist. The joists are 18' so I scabbed an 8' 2x10 onto each one. Overkill but I'm assured that this job is not going to have to be done again in my lifetime. Once again, the rim joist fit nicely so I secured and lowered the jacks. Ran my screws in to secure the rim joist to the common joists and cleaned up. Next to come..........the finishing flashing and trim.
 

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#29 ·
It is not "overkill" to do it right. or to build for longevity.

Sometimes one must get it done now, so the pictures are not really necessary, just a nice touch.

looking good , keep it up.


ED
 
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