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-   -   Replacing Exterior Side Door Help! (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/replacing-exterior-side-door-help-178536/)

hboogz 05-01-2013 04:25 PM

Replacing Exterior Side Door Help!
 
As a continuation to a previous thread titled "Rough Opening for Pre-Hung..." I'm looking for some insight on how to properly replace the door (beauty) attached.

http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psc271a5de.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...pscb1cd163.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psd019a59c.jpg


princelake gave me some golden advice on the steps he takes to hang an interior pre-hung, found here

I assume the same holds true for an external door? However, at the very beginning I'm attaching a frame of 1x4's (or other size based on your suggestions) to the masonry wall to create a level frame. Then attaching the pre-hung to this frame. Also, i should wrap the 1x4's in roofing paper or another waterproof membrane and fill up holes with spray-on insulation? Dap, corning etc ?

I plan on replacing my side door with one of these or something similar.

In this application I assume i need to make sure my materials are weatherized (screws, caulk, etc) and when it comes to the saddle, to level it off with, possibly, hydraulic cement and if possible when it comes to finally drilling the finished jam, to make sure it penetrates into the masonry wall? 3" tapcons should work, i assume, but I'm sure you folks have some tried and true feedback and suggestions on which materials have worked best for you!

Thanks in advance!

Harry.

hboogz 05-04-2013 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hboogz (Post 1170807)
As a continuation to a previous thread titled "Rough Opening for Pre-Hung..." I'm looking for some insight on how to properly replace the door (beauty) attached.

http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psc271a5de.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...pscb1cd163.jpg
http://i396.photobucket.com/albums/p...psd019a59c.jpg


princelake gave me some golden advice on the steps he takes to hang an interior pre-hung, found here

I assume the same holds true for an external door? However, at the very beginning I'm attaching a frame of 1x4's (or other size based on your suggestions) to the masonry wall to create a level frame. Then attaching the pre-hung to this frame. Also, i should wrap the 1x4's in roofing paper or another waterproof membrane and fill up holes with spray-on insulation? Dap, corning etc ?

I plan on replacing my side door with one of these or something similar.

In this application I assume i need to make sure my materials are weatherized (screws, caulk, etc) and when it comes to the saddle, to level it off with, possibly, hydraulic cement and if possible when it comes to finally drilling the finished jam, to make sure it penetrates into the masonry wall? 3" tapcons should work, i assume, but I'm sure you folks have some tried and true feedback and suggestions on which materials have worked best for you!

Thanks in advance!

Harry.

Anyone?

gregzoll 05-04-2013 10:41 PM

Helps to place your location in your profile. That is going to be a hard one, due to the opening when it was built, was made for the door frame to be installed, before the brick facing was put in place. From the looks of it, and with all of that coax, I would have to say that 1) It is not a good area, and 2) it appears to be a multi-tenant building.

It also helps if you give the measurements of the rough opening. That would be from the edge of the brick on both sides, and from the top at the bottom edge of the brick, to the floor.

Duckweather 05-05-2013 10:24 PM

Is this a brick building or a brick veneer? Is this a prison?? Why two doorbells?

ubcguy89 05-05-2013 10:31 PM

from what i see I would use a metal welded jamb with wedge bolts, toggle bolts, or tapcons depending on how it looks after your existing jamb is out. shim the jamb plumb and make sure the head is level and anchor the jamb and swing the door

hboogz 05-06-2013 09:02 AM

Now that you mention it, it does kinda look like a door used in some sort of prison or place you'd rather not find yourself. lol. Hence my urge to replace it. The area is fine and yes this is not a single family home and I suppose a lot of coax and brick may scare you folks from the stix, but no need to fret folks.

Leaving the socioeconomic judgments for a minute, thanks for the feedback ubc. I assume I have to buy those separately, would HD sell them? I will look to get rough measurements soon but thank you all for your replies nonetheless, albeit a bit off-topic.

jagans 05-06-2013 09:42 AM

Use a buck and a steel door. I suspect someone had the jail house door there for a reason?

Duckweather 05-06-2013 04:43 PM

If the building is solid brick walls the metal jamb would probably be the way to go. If i is a brick veneer on a wood frame wall you may have different options. Around here the masonry dealers carry steel jambs.

jagans 05-06-2013 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duckweather (Post 1173850)
If the building is solid brick walls the metal jamb would probably be the way to go. If i is a brick veneer on a wood frame wall you may have different options. Around here the masonry dealers carry steel jambs.

Yeah, They are called a buck if they are metal, not a jamb.

gregzoll 05-06-2013 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duckweather (Post 1173440)
Is this a brick building or a brick veneer? Is this a prison?? Why two doorbells?

Multi-tenant building.

ubcguy89 05-06-2013 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hboogz (Post 1173625)
Now that you mention it, it does kinda look like a door used in some sort of prison or place you'd rather not find yourself. lol. Hence my urge to replace it. The area is fine and yes this is not a single family home and I suppose a lot of coax and brick may scare you folks from the stix, but no need to fret folks.

Leaving the socioeconomic judgments for a minute, thanks for the feedback ubc. I assume I have to buy those separately, would HD sell them? I will look to get rough measurements soon but thank you all for your replies nonetheless, albeit a bit off-topic.

you can get them through your big box stores, they may be special order. I am a commercial carpenter, we generally use a commercial door company. If you choose to use a steel jamb, be sure to keep the spreader (metal piece at the bottom) in if you can. you can properly remove it by smacking it with a cold chisel. you will want to bondo the anchors and sand with a palm sander before paining. any exterior door will hang on them as long as the hinge layout is the same along with the strike layout. you will also need to purchase a threshold seperatly compatible with a welded frame type jamb.

hboogz 05-06-2013 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ubcguy89 (Post 1174056)
you can get them through your big box stores, they may be special order. I am a commercial carpenter, we generally use a commercial door company. If you choose to use a steel jamb, be sure to keep the spreader (metal piece at the bottom) in if you can. you can properly remove it by smacking it with a cold chisel. you will want to bondo the anchors and sand with a palm sander before paining. any exterior door will hang on them as long as the hinge layout is the same along with the strike layout. you will also need to purchase a threshold seperatly compatible with a welded frame type jamb.

Don't know what that means? But I'll venture a guess and say, pre-drill, fill hole with adhesive (bondo) fasten anchors (tapcons?)

ubcguy89 05-07-2013 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hboogz (Post 1174066)
Don't know what that means? But I'll venture a guess and say, pre-drill, fill hole with adhesive (bondo) fasten anchors (tapcons?)

No let me explain in better detail. I can not tell what kind of anchors you need unless I see what the rough opening looks like after the door is removed. what you need to do is try to get a pre dimpled door (already has holes drilled and countersunk). if you can not find one, you need to predrill and countersink the holes on a metal jamb (you need a big countersink without a guide bit for this). you will do this on the opposite side of the door stop that your door swings on. hammerdrill and use the appropiate anchors (obviously after the door is shimmed plumb (use a plumb bob for this) and level (use a 2' level on the door head). then after the jamb is set and door is swinging you then use bondo to mud over the anchors to hide them from site. then after the bondo is dry you sand it smooth and paint the jamb.


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