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Chemist1961 04-14-2009 05:29 PM

Replacing door sill
I have a 42" entrance door with a sill which has heaved from moisture seaping underneath , sitting on a slab. I can buy a replacement sill and try to drive it in but can't figure out how I will fasten it. Or I can pull the frame and replace it as a complete unit frame and sill. A new 42" steel door just isn't in the budget right now. Any pointers on replacing the sill versus the entire frame?

CrossWorks 04-14-2009 06:03 PM

Most door frames these days have the aluminum sill screwed into the frame ends. So pulling it out will be just about impossible without damaging the frame if that's how this sill is fastened. How old is the door?

If the door is no more then 10-15 years old, then suspect the sill is screwed into the frame, and the only way to tackle this one ( I believe ) is to take the entire door frame out. Once that's done, and the new sill is attached, then you'll want to use NP1 Caulking to seal the door sill instead of the standard silicone caulk. This caulking is used extensively in commercial construction and is flexable and will do well in this application.

Then the next step would obviously be to make sure that however the water was getting under your sill, you'll need to eliminate this issue.

If you need more information or the proper steps, don't hesitate to ask.

Good Luck :wink:

Chemist1961 04-14-2009 06:46 PM

The sill and door is about 35 years old. It's an original Stanley Steel door from what I can tell. I realize what I'm up against, have checked out a complete door and sill I have for another location, and several scrapped ones.
I'm thinking I can notch out the sill with my new Dremel oscillating tool, but if I could I'm stumped as to how I would re-attach a new sill either to the frame or wall surrounding without yanking the whole frame.
Thanks for the tip on the NP1, was reading the tube today at the lumber store.

Thurman 04-15-2009 07:59 AM

First-keep in mind you need to find out why you had the heaving from moisture and solve that problem FIRST. It sounds like you may not have had a good seal between the slab and the original sill which had some components made of wood. There are newer sills out there which are all auluminum for these type applications. I've replaced many of these in my HouseHold HandyMan business and here's one suggestion that may work for you: You state that you have a Dremel MultiMax, that's a good start. I have not found a metal cutting blade for these yet (are you listening Dremel?), but have had some success with the regular blades on cutting the staples and/or screws that hold the door jambs to the sills. I also have patience and sometimes use a short hacksaw blade in a handle to do this. BUT- I can get the sill out without removing the door frame. After removing the old sill, and cleaning up thoroughly, fit the new sill into place. If the new sill has the rubber strip on top to creates a seal with the door bottom, remove it. I use this area to place brass or S.S. screws through the sill into the framing beneath the door area to secure the sill, then place the rubber seal back into place. After you have the sill in place and securely fastened down, use a good silicone caulking (I'm not familiar with the NP-1 and will check on it) to seal things up. Good Luck. David

CrossWorks 04-15-2009 06:01 PM

Good idea on on removing the adjustable David. That will certainly do the trick.
And Chemist, with the door being that old, it certainly confirms again that; "Thay don't they use to anymore". Regardless, I suspect whatever is hold the sill to jambs will be cut very easily with you Multi Max.

I certainly agree with David's approach. The only set back I see with that is getting a prpoer seal with the sill to the concrete. Because it has to slide in so snug, I just question how well the caulking will spread.

On the otherhand the option of taking eveything out and installing the sill to the jamb then tipping the door back in place will certainly seal well.

But considering the age of the door, any caulking seal will at last it.

I do have one question: Do you have constant water splashing up against the door?? Up my way, I can just about guarantee that every house that has a granite slab, or a precast stairway has either caused severe water damage to the door in a very short period or it'ss in the process of happening. These type of scenerio's are constant cause of door sill rot or damage. Here's a perfect example: Check out the brick steps

Chemist1961 04-16-2009 05:40 AM

Replacement Stanley Door Sill
Thanks to both of you. Confirmed my thoughts. Two moisture issues. There is a 14' high soffit above and the eaves trough was dripping causing a splash, however I think the lack of drainage slope on the slab was more the issue with snow, coupled with heat loss at the door seals. I may grind it once I can see underneath. The frame appears to be solid so I'm hoping to avoid outright removal.
My bigger concern is if the rot is below in the plywood and rim joist. If that's the case I know the project will grow quickly. I am prepared for worst case, but hoping for better results as I can see the sill is heaved at centre least 3/8 above the outer edge .
I have planed this down with an autobody file while replacing the 5 fin seal. Had good results but I know this is a temp fix. Now the nice weather is here I know what I have to do.
CR the rubber embrane in you photos is a great idea. Thanks for that.
Do either of you know a source for sills that might have on line info to match this old profile. I have several local door manufacturers but would like a matching profile if possible. Obviuosly I can't just cut a smple but have drafted a top and side view with dimensions.

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