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08-28-2009, 01:14 PM
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#1
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Landlord
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Auburn,GA via Charleston,SC
Posts: 29
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Replacing aluminum windows installed in 1992
How would you go about replacing these windows. Everything I see on replacing windows is how to replace old wood windows. Weren't they installed as new construction windows? So wouldn't they of had a nailing flange on the perimeter of the window? So how do you get them out without disturbing the siding? Anybody have suggestions? Thanks
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08-28-2009, 10:03 PM
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#2
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cocean
How would you go about replacing these windows. Everything I see on replacing windows is how to replace old wood windows. Weren't they installed as new construction windows? So wouldn't they of had a nailing flange on the perimeter of the window? So how do you get them out without disturbing the siding? Anybody have suggestions? Thanks
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Depending on the type of siding, we cut it back to expose the nailing flange. then we install a new window and cover the nailing flange with wood and the cap it in aluminum. the aluminum covers the cut in the siding.
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08-28-2009, 11:07 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cocean
How would you go about replacing these windows. Everything I see on replacing windows is how to replace old wood windows. Weren't they installed as new construction windows? So wouldn't they of had a nailing flange on the perimeter of the window? So how do you get them out without disturbing the siding? Anybody have suggestions? Thanks
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Saws awe- but be sure to use the nailing fin on the new windows. if you do it correctly this time you wont have too do again in decades in stead of years. I would recommend Marvin or Andersen windwos to solve your problems... you should have used Andersen in the first place then you won't be having these problems but you bought the house like this right? well anyway hind sight is 20/20. cut the siding back a little in install a vinyl trim board around the window to picture frame it from the outside. Both ANdersen and Marvin make custom size full frames to size. Do it right this time adn these windwos will last you 40 to 50 years if you use their fiberglass windows or fibrex windows
Good luck
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08-29-2009, 12:10 AM
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#4
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Landlord
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Auburn,GA via Charleston,SC
Posts: 29
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You keep saying "do it right this time", but this is how the house was built. There is no such thing as replacement windows? Where I don't have to cut back the siding? It is wood siding.
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08-29-2009, 02:54 AM
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#5
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 9
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I have removed aluminum windows without cutting the siding around them. Here is how I did it.
First- get the glass out. Remove the slider if you can. Then you can try to cut the seals and take the fixed side glass out in one piece, or just hit it with a hammer and pick up all the pieces.
Second- remove the center post if there is one. You can use a sawzall or pound on the top and bottom with a hammer until it breaks off.
Third- remove the frame. I hooked a ratchet strap on the top and bottom and ratcheted untill the nails pulled through the nailing flanges. Some of them needed a little motivating with a hammer too but they came. If you can bend the top and bottom in then the sides should pull in too. If there isn't a place to hook the ratchet strap you may be able to make one with a hammer and a punch or somthing else to punch a hole in the frame large enough to fit the hook in.
I have used this method a number of times with 100% success rate. Good luck. If you have any other questions you can contact me at the website below.
Check out my new website: http://youfixityourself.com/
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08-29-2009, 12:01 PM
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#6
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Landlord
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Auburn,GA via Charleston,SC
Posts: 29
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Here are pics of the windows i'm talking about. I don't see how I can rip them out. Wouldn't they of had the nailing flange on them when they were built with the house? New construction windows?
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08-29-2009, 12:18 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 695
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pull the outside trim flange will be under there
get some one who knows how to install the new windows properly
if your going to do it [jugding by your question you probably shouldnt]
study the install manual for the units your putting in
Last edited by tomstruble; 08-29-2009 at 12:21 PM.
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08-29-2009, 12:19 PM
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#8
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Landlord
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Auburn,GA via Charleston,SC
Posts: 29
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Cool, is that it?
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08-29-2009, 12:48 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: west milford n.j.
Posts: 695
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ahh yea...thats all i got
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08-29-2009, 12:57 PM
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#10
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 9
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Yes, pull the trim. Pics help see what is going on.
Is that old LP siding? If you plan on replacing siding, that's the best time to replace windows too. You can seal around them better.
New vinyl windows are normally thicker and come into the house farther. You may need to cut back the trim and sheetrock on the inside. Or you can put a piece of lath under the nailing flange to keep the window out farther and then cut the back of the trim out to hide it. Make sure it is sealed really well and don't go cheap on the caulking or flashing.
http://www.youfixityourself.com/arti...yl_window.html
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08-29-2009, 01:00 PM
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#11
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 9
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P.S. Make sure you cut the caulking on the outside and inside because it can tear things if you force it. It acts like glue and can pull chunks off the trim inside or can pull on the siding.
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08-29-2009, 04:53 PM
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#12
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Landlord
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Auburn,GA via Charleston,SC
Posts: 29
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You hit the nail on the head with the LP siding. That is another issue, but half the house has been redone in Hardiplank.
Another question, the front living room window has an arch, how do you get flashing around the top of it for a smooth look?
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09-01-2009, 12:24 PM
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#13
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mt Vernon, WA
Posts: 9
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If you are installing new vinyl windows with a nailing flange the nailing flange will act as the flashing. Run a bead of good caulking on the nailing flange across the holes before putting the window in place. Press on the flange to make sure the caulking adheres to the wall behind. You want to run the bead of caulking across the holes so that when you put the nails in, the caulking seals the nails too. If you can, get all of the flange except the bottom underneath the building paper. Then if water gets on the paper above the window it will go down to the top of the nailing flange, then down the side of the window, and end up on the outside of the paper at the bottom of the window. It will be a little more difficult to do if you are not removing siding.
I also tape the building paper to the nailing flanges with an appropriate tape for the paper. Vycor works really well. It is normally wider than your trim so I'm not sure how well it will work in your situation with the limited space. You can find instructions for installing vinyl windows at this website: http://www.youfixityourself.com/arti...yl_window.html I don't have any pictures up yet but the article explains it step by step. Hope this was helpful. Good luck with the project.
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