Replacement Windows Into Existing Pocket
 

I attached one photo here and there are many more at:

http://s1121.photobucket.com/albums/...erenow/upbath/

I currently have Hurd Compression-Tilt Double-Hung windows. The sashes ride in two "side balances" These side balances are compressed onto the side jambs. The side balances are easily removed exposing the side jambs. I am considering doing a few Polaris replacement windows and want to get opinions after looking at the picrtures as to whether I am correct in assuming the replacement window will just fit into the "pocket" after I remove the sashes and side balances and head parting stop on head jamb.

I can't answer your question exactly, since the windows you are replacing are considerably newer than the ones I have replaced. However, in general, the part of old window that you are asking about is more or less the same as the blind stops/sill/etc... that remained in place when I replaced some of my 100 year old double hung. I would personally get someone from the company that you are buying windows from to come out and measure, as well as to advise you on their windows, since they are all going to have some unique install features. Additionally, if the windows show up the wrong size, the store will be responsible, not you.

The picture you took doesn't show the stops clearly. This is the important part of a replacement window installation.
The replacement window sets against the side and top stops.
How wide are these stops in your window?
In a traditional window, these are 1/2"-5/8" wide.
You also have a steeply sloped sill. Some replacement windows can match this slope in their production process, many will not. They will give you a filler strip to add to cover the gap. Most standard fillers will not fill that gap.

I've recently replaced quite a few windows in my 100 year old house. While my process is different than what you will need to do the basics apply.

When you order your windows, you're going to need a few measurements. The windows I used were Jeld-Wen vinyl Double-Hung Pockets. To measure for my windows I had to remove the sash and take 6 measurements. I measured the height of the window in three spots, the left and right jambs and the center. I also had to measure the width at the head (top), sill (bottom), and center. Using the manufactures guidelines I used the smallest of the three measurements for the height and width. I also needed to check the angle of the existing sill. My angle was 14 degrees.

With these measurements I placed my order and the windows fit perfectly with 1/4" space around the sides and top. The windows came with a sill adapter to match to slope and took about an hour to install 2 windows.

Once they were installed I added a small piece of 1/2" trim around the top and sides on the exterior, painted and siliconed. Stuffed the gap around the unit with insulation and another piece of trim around the entire interior, painted to match the existing trim/sill plate.

If you check your with your manufactures website you should find a guide for replacing windows DIY style. If you are not comfortable with the procedure, many places offer Specialists to measure and order the windows for you. Worst case scenario, look for a contractor that specializes in window replacement, as experience goes a LONG way.

Looking at your picture it appears that your sill is sloped similar to mine, so a standard pocket window should already have a sill adapter applied, but again check with the manufacturer prior to ordering.

Looking at your pictures the exterior screen may need to be removed, most replacement windows come with an option for pre-installed screens and a built in screen channel. You also have a small piece of grooved wood in the head of existing hole, you will need to remove this for sure.

If you want to leave your existing screens you may be able to use the track as a guide for new window, again check with manufacturer. Jeld-Wen windows come 1/2" smaller than rough opening. The small wood trim on the interior will need to be removed for installation but can be replaced when complete. Most replacement windows are 3 1/2" deep from screen channel to interior face. (check with manufacturer for specs).

Why are you replacing these windows?

@yeag6154 ---I know that the head parting stop will be removed. That is just nailed in place. Not a problem removing it.

I do not plan on using the current screen as most replacement windows already come with a screen But I hope I do not have to remove the current screen track. That will entail messing with the outside vinyl siding which I want to avoid if I do it myself. I will be going to the builder supply place here and get their opinion.

@Ron6519---The windows are 14 years old and the glass gets very cold to the touch. Any insulating gas that was inside the panes has leaked out. Hurd has offered to send/sell me new double-pane sashes and side balances but the cost from Hurd for that is more than new triple pane replacements.

@Ron6519---forgot to include this above but there are no stops along the side jambs. There are whats called "side balances" which is shown in picture #10 on photobucket. The entire side balance assembly is one piece and is compressed into the side jambs. One I remove this side balance on each side, all that is left are the wood side jambs shown in most of the photos. Since the depth of the side jambs is 3.5 inches measured from the inside to that outer track for the screen(shown in picture 7) I am hoping that the replacement window will use this screen track as the stop???

If these are solid and fall within the 1/2-5/8" thick parameter, it should work. Replacement windows have a set inset where the recess in the window rests against the window stop of the frame. You caulk the flat surface of the stop and the window recess presses against the caulk for a seal. You then shim the window sides and secure the new window with screws, top and bottom and then adjust the middle jamb screw to keep the jambs from bowing out.

@Ron6519---Thanks for pointing out to check the thickness of this screen track. I never thought to check that to see if it is sufficient for a stop. I'll want to have it available for my trip to the builder supply place.

I am pretty sure it is thicker than 1/2 inch though as shown in the picture below:

Thanks again

And it isn't solid. You could cut some composite material and slide it into the groove to provide a sealable surface.
If the width is thicker then the 1/2-5/8", you could modify the window size to reflect the added thickness and add fillers on the top and sides to maintain the appropriate gaps, if they were too big.
It just means the windows will be a bit smaller.

I did measure the width of that screen track. It measures 1/2 inch as shown in the photo below.

You want to measure the distance from the wood jamb to the outside of the plastic channel.

That is the measurement above. From the wood jamb to the outside of the channel.

I was thinking did you mean measurement "A" in this photo and not measurement "B" ? If so it is 5/8 inch

The "B" dimension.