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Old 03-17-2007, 08:10 PM   #1
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Default Replace/Repair Door Jamb?

My entry door jamb is rotten on the bottom. This would be an easier fix if it was a standalone door but its not. It is complete with two sidelites and a half circle transom above. The door was built as a complete unit from the factory(not sure who the manufacturer is) so it isnt modular.

Is there anyway to replace just the main door frame? Or fix the door jamb?

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Old 03-17-2007, 08:58 PM   #2
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You can dig out the rotten wood and try to insert a new piece of wood. If the rotten area is small you could use Minwax's two part wood filler. A repair is not a long term solution! Your door has rot because of one of these reasons;

-someone does not keep up with the painting/caulking.

-the door frame (jamb) sucks up water due to poor construction.

-water/snow is not able to melt away from the door.

If you decide to buy a new door, get one that has "jamb savers" meaning the bottom foot or so is made with a product that does not suck water into the jamb. Also look for a door that has "jamb on sill" meaning that the jamb sits on the sill and does extend under the sill.
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:37 PM   #3
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You can dig out the rotten wood and try to insert a new piece of wood. If the rotten area is small you could use Minwax's two part wood filler. A repair is not a long term solution! Your door has rot because of one of these reasons;

-someone does not keep up with the painting/caulking.

-the door frame (jamb) sucks up water due to poor construction.

-water/snow is not able to melt away from the door.

If you decide to buy a new door, get one that has "jamb savers" meaning the bottom foot or so is made with a product that does not suck water into the jamb. Also look for a door that has "jamb on sill" meaning that the jamb sits on the sill and does extend under the sill.
Poor construction along with a lack of gutters and no storm door is to blame. The bottom foot of the door jamb has been rotten since I bought the house. Gutters and a storm door have since been installed. The bottom foot is so rotten I can actually pull the wood apart with my fingers.

This is a temp fix until I can come up with a couple thousand dollars for a new door.
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:26 PM   #4
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FWIW: a handy tip - We often use actual automotive 'bondo' at times for some repairs on rotted or damaged wood where 'attachment' strength is a concern and it is a painted surface (as opposed to a stain grade stock)

It provides a much stronger and rigid patch...especially on or in areas adjacent to a door hinge....

The 'key' is to work it while it is still 'curing'. You can easily get it to smooth out just like any wood type patching compound....
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:39 PM   #5
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FWIW: a handy tip - We often use actual automotive 'bondo' at times for some repairs on rotted or damaged wood where 'attachment' strength is a concern and it is a painted surface (as opposed to a stain grade stock)

It provides a much stronger and rigid patch...especially on or in areas adjacent to a door hinge....

The 'key' is to work it while it is still 'curing'. You can easily get it to smooth out just like any wood type patching compound....
I"ve used the "Bondo" when the stores are out of the minwax 2 part stuff. I would swear that it is the same product with just a different label. I will generally drive screws into the good wood and leave the heads sticking out into the void. When the filler is applied it bonds to the screws and they act like rebar. If this is not done and the surrounding wood gets wet it can reject the patch.
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:40 PM   #6
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Tiger, look on your hinges and post the name that is stamped. Does the first letter start with "T" ?
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:45 PM   #7
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Tiger, look on your hinges and post the name that is stamped. Does the first letter start with "T" ?
So thats where they stick it! Thanks!

Therma-Tru.
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:50 PM   #8
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So thats where they stick it! Thanks!

Therma-Tru.
How did I know that? Your house is between 3-10 years old?
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:50 PM   #9
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10 years

Sooo.....now that I know the manufacturer, can anyone tell me if I can replace just the rotten door jambs on this door?
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:54 PM   #10
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Realize this: Since when did any of the "Door manufactures"..... want you to buy a 'part'...when they can sell you the WHOLE DOOR....$$ ?

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Last edited by AtlanticWBConst.; 03-17-2007 at 11:05 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fhivinylwindows View Post
I"ve used the "Bondo" when the stores are out of the minwax 2 part stuff. I would swear that it is the same product with just a different label. I will generally drive screws into the good wood and leave the heads sticking out into the void. When the filler is applied it bonds to the screws and they act like rebar. If this is not done and the surrounding wood gets wet it can reject the patch.

Could be the same....never used the minwax...

...the screws: Yes when it comes to using screws in door jams, they are a huge additional 'securing' component and measure that can be utilized in ALOT of positive ways that are often overlooked.....
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Old 03-17-2007, 11:04 PM   #12
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I think my issue will be if I choose to repair the lower portion of the door jambs with wood. I dont know if I would actually have something to secure the new wood to since the jambs look like they back right up to the sidelights.
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Old 03-17-2007, 11:05 PM   #13
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10 years

Sooo.....now that I know the manufacturer, can anyone tell me if I can replace just the rotten door jambs on this door?
The reason I asked who made the door is because I knew the answer. Most new doors are made to fail so you have to buy another new door that will fail. If you made a door that would last 60 years you would only be able to sell each homeowner 1 door. Here's another one, make your door with odd sizes so the home owner will have to buy your door again or use the wrong size.

Your door was designed so you can not change the jamb. New door or patch work.

Most of the doors that my company replace are less than 15 years old or over 50 years of age. All of the newer doors are replaced due to rot or broken jambs because they are made of pine. The older doors are replaced because people want the new fiberglass doors with weatherstripping. Most of the older doors are in good shape with little or no rot and the jambs are nice and strong because they are fir or oak.
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Old 03-17-2007, 11:08 PM   #14
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The reason I asked who made the door is because I knew the answer. Most new doors are made to fail so you have to buy another new door that will fail. If you made a door that would last 60 years you would only be able to sell each homeowner 1 door. Here's another one, make your door with odd sizes so the home owner will have to buy your door again or use the wrong size.

Your door was designed so you can not change the jamb. New door or patch work.

Most of the doors that my company replace are less than 15 years old or over 50 years of age. All of the newer doors are replaced due to rot or broken jambs because they are made of pine. The older doors are replaced because people want the new fiberglass doors with weatherstripping. Most of the older doors are in good shape with little or no rot and the jambs are nice and strong because they are fir or oak.
So would you have any suggestions as how to go about repairing the bottom 12 inches of jamb on each side of the door? The rotten part is rotted all the way through the jamb. I dont think I could patch it.
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Old 03-17-2007, 11:11 PM   #15
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Tiger, some prehungs with sidelights are 3 units that are stapled together and some are actually built with as one unit. I would need to know how yours was built in order to answer. Is your sill one long piece or does it have seams at the sidelights?
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