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Old 02-08-2011, 06:18 PM   #16
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To Replace Doors and Trim or Not


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It would help if you posted pictures.
Ron
10-4.

These are from a flat prybar. I thought I was being relatively gentle. I guess this explains why virtually every square inch of the base is dinged, chiped and flaked. I guess this is probably some combination of the softness of pine and brittleness of the shellac, huh?
Again, I ask not because I was trying to preserve but more from wondering if I went with pine or poplar as a replacement, would it be as fragile? Or do more modern finishes like urathane make it substantially more durable.

EDIT: also the trim is pretty dark and reddish for pine and also very light. Is this because of age or could it actually be some other wood than pine?


Last edited by Ptron; 02-08-2011 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 02-09-2011, 09:33 AM   #17
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To Replace Doors and Trim or Not


I had the same problem in my 100yr old house, I tore out all of the trim because it was ugly,scratched and dinged up. It ended up being the worst mistake we made on our house for a number of reasons. I think repairing/painting is a good option if you really hate the way it looks now. The best option is to buy a decent palm sander and like someone else said a bunch of sharp scrapers and restore whats there already, it is lovely. I would bet you could find a matching door on craigs list or a local junk collector and if you cant take it to a furnature repairmen/wood worker it could be fixed for the price of a new door. Also I recently priced stain grade pine and it nearly knocked my down, pine's not a cheap wood any longer. I just think that with a ton of elbow grease and some $$ you will have a nicely/traditionly trimed house. If you tear out and start fresh theres still the elbow grease but now your talkin a ton of $$ also, and when your done you will have nothing special i/e: the same trim every HD/Lowes shopper has. You might not see any value in that old trim but many will, so for that reason I vote to restore.
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Old 02-09-2011, 12:27 PM   #18
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To Replace Doors and Trim or Not


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I had the same problem in my 100yr old house, I tore out all of the trim because it was ugly,scratched and dinged up. It ended up being the worst mistake we made on our house for a number of reasons. I think repairing/painting is a good option if you really hate the way it looks now. The best option is to buy a decent palm sander and like someone else said a bunch of sharp scrapers and restore whats there already, it is lovely. I would bet you could find a matching door on craigs list or a local junk collector and if you cant take it to a furnature repairmen/wood worker it could be fixed for the price of a new door. Also I recently priced stain grade pine and it nearly knocked my down, pine's not a cheap wood any longer. I just think that with a ton of elbow grease and some $$ you will have a nicely/traditionly trimed house. If you tear out and start fresh theres still the elbow grease but now your talkin a ton of $$ also, and when your done you will have nothing special i/e: the same trim every HD/Lowes shopper has. You might not see any value in that old trim but many will, so for that reason I vote to restore.
I appreciate that sentiment. It's what I originally intended and tried to do. I certainly didn't imagine replacing all the trim when I bought the house. I bought a book on refinishing. I went through sheet after clogged up sheet of sandpaper, quarts of increasingly nastier stripping product, and after not even finishing one room, decided it wasn't worth it. I didn't do much dry scrapping (except I did use an awl to scrape out the tight crevices) and maybe this is what I should have done but with the all the contours and the extreme softness of the wood I still think it would have been difficult and grueling. Anyway it's all torn out now except for the door frames and some of it didn't fare that well in the removal process thanks to the giant, sometimes rusty nails they put even the smallest pieces in with.


I'm going to have the new trim made or possibly get a router table and make it myself. The stock 7/16 stuff is too thin and wouldn't cover some of the large gaps I have along the exterior walls.
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Old 02-09-2011, 02:52 PM   #19
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To Replace Doors and Trim or Not


Poplar is a hardwood and would stand up better to the abuse than would the pine. That not withstanding, when I have to remove trim of any species, I'll buffer the pry bar from the wood with a heavy six inch drywall knife. If the piece is stuck fast it may still leave a mark, but to a much lesser degree.
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Old 02-09-2011, 04:26 PM   #20
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To Replace Doors and Trim or Not


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Poplar is a hardwood and would stand up better to the abuse than would the pine.
Oh, heh. Shows you what I know.

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That not withstanding, when I have to remove trim of any species, I'll buffer the pry bar from the wood with a heavy six inch drywall knife. If the piece is stuck fast it may still leave a mark, but to a much lesser degree.
Yeah, I wasn't really trying to protect the wood since I didn't intend to preserve it. I just thought it remarkable how easily it marked (no pun intended). I'm not at home ATM but when I get a chance I'm going to examine it against some newer pine I have on hand. I swear that old stuff is lighter (weight) and softer. It certainly is darker and redder.
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Old 02-12-2011, 12:09 PM   #21
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To Replace Doors and Trim or Not


I pretty much have the same problem as you. I have five interior doors (not counting closet types) that need to be replaced (IMO). The door slabs are that luan crap. They are hollow core and some are scratched up. On another forum I belong to, they suggested just replacing the slabs and doing your own mortising/hanging (provided the current jambs are in ok shape). Simple in concept, could be hard to pull off if you don't have the tools/skills. If I go the buy new 5 1/4" jamb prehungs route, the quote I got was at least $300/assembly. For five doors and this was pine wood. This is 1500 plus trim. I don't have a problem replacing my trim as I consider it outdated and want a more modern look. Anywho, a slab swap out is probably the cheapest. Getting your slabs stripped by others will be next in price but you have to look at overall cost compared to new, providing the new ones are the wood species you want. I am not a big fan of pine as I think it scratches/dents rather easily. Anything decent quality will cost you. Also factor in costs for a dumpster and anything related to waste.

You could try and use HD or Lowes bought doors if you want to add in jamb extensions. But yeah, their low cost door are just that.

Last edited by algored2deth; 02-12-2011 at 12:11 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:49 PM   #22
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To Replace Doors and Trim or Not


Good timing on your post. I was just thinking over the slab thing. I've mortised/hung doors before. I know I could do it. I was just assuming the price difference between prehung and a slab wasn't enough to be worth it but I don't know. Guess I have a little more resarch to do.

One catch is that my frames are pine and like you, I'd prefer something else for durability's sake. I would have to either live with all hardwood except the frames or replace the frames as well. Certainly doable but is it worth it? A frame is pretty simple in it's construction but getting it installed perfect and square seems like a bit more delacate thing.
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:20 PM   #23
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To Replace Doors and Trim or Not


Now if you want to go whole hog on this, you can build your own jambs. Here is a link to a video for some tips. You may want to get a cup of coffee watching it because it is a bit long...old school too

http://garykatz.blip.tv/file/3355271/


I am pretty sure that you can buy door jamb kits out there. I think HD has that type of stuff. Depending on what you are looking for as an end result, it may be cost effective. You can always stain wood to look like something else but it takes time. Of course, this whole route gets you into building a complete, custom door.

There are several websites where you can buy doors online. In this case, I personally think finding a local fab shop would be the way to go if you choose to go this route. I have seen pricing on prehung units where if you bought the slab alone, it is say 300. Throw in the frame, and it is another 75-100. Comparing amount of work you think you can do vs time vs waste material vs frustration level can be pretty high for this job.

I would think pine frames would be ok unless somebody in the house is absolutely crazy with a vacuum cleaner or the cat has it as a scratching post. The casing and slab would be most important because if there is something that will get abused, it is these two items.

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