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Old 02-18-2013, 04:27 PM   #31
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Removing Sheetrock ceiling


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Originally Posted by Mstrlucky74 View Post
We are going to be removing Sheetrock in our living room and put up new. Above the ceiling is our unfinished attic. We have insulation betwwen the rafters above this ceiling and are hoping it stays put when the ceiling is removed. What is the best way to remove a Sheetrock ceiling? Start going crazy with a hammer ? . Thanks a lot
I sure hope you have insulation between the rafters in the ceiling, because if you didn't, well........... I'd be speaking to the builder. Anyways, if it's standard R-21 or R-19, than you'll have staples holding the sheets in place. If not, and it's the blown-in insulation, than you'll have plastic wrap holding it in place.

Wear all safety equipment such as dust mask and safety glasses, and just cut out your drywall in sections. It'll make it a lot easier and quicker to remove in sections, rather than piece by piece.

Now would be the time to move any lighting fixtures or reshape your cielings "landscape" if you would to whatever desired configuration you'd like. Make sure you have all proper permits needed if required, (most permits you can get for even $5, to $20 typically) follow all local building and electrical codes when doing this.

When you put up your new sheetrock, remember to use two coats of jointing compound with mesh tape, and one coat of the soft-set jointing compound to make sanding later easy.

And ensure you use a vapor mask when you apply your new texture, unless you want to leave your home in a bodybag, that is.... Just putting this out there, most people don't comprehend the fumes for wall and cieling textures, are heavily poisnous, even with a fan blowing. To not where a vapor mask (think of a gas mask when thinking vapor, not a dust mask) when doing texturing, well, you'd have to have a death wish, or very good medical coverage.

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Old 02-18-2013, 04:31 PM   #32
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Removing Sheetrock ceiling


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Thanks so much guys. Ok here are some pics were the sag was. As you can see(I hope) in the new pics the beam somehow lowered into the sheetrock. We lived here when they built that skylight but I don't remember if they added that the piece of wood( the one left to right) I don't think so but why does it just end right there? Shouldn't it keep going? They did add the other piece of wood(vertical) We do here the house settle from time to time. I think we may just rock over the extg. but I guess I have to raise that wood.

By the way, would it be possible to remove the sheetrock on the walls if we put new over the extg on the ceilings? Not sure of the ceiling rock butts against the wall rock or the other ways around. We have baseboards if that matters. Thanks again.
Why do you have a 2x4 protruding past your cieling joist? That's wrong, and may be the source of the dip in your ceiling, if there are many more like it. That would explain a lot.

Also, where is the nearest load barring wall?

Another thing to put into consideration, your ceiling is sagging most likely because of a lack in support to the weight. Tear down ALL of that drywall, expose the entire ceiling. If any ceiling joists are bound together via stud, they are put together WRONG.

Most likely, you're going to have to run a support beam across the ceiling to an already loadbearing wall. Without actually seeing the rafters exposed and the rest of the ceiling exposed, can't say for certain just yet. But by looking at the sag, it is immediately apparent you have poor load bearing. And seeing 2x4s protruding past your raftors, poor construction added to it.

Last edited by GarrettFiveZero; 02-18-2013 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:43 PM   #33
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Removing Sheetrock ceiling


I laid insulation between the rafters myself last year. Thanks for all the other info.

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Originally Posted by GarrettFiveZero View Post
I sure hope you have insulation between the rafters in the ceiling, because if you didn't, well........... I'd be speaking to the builder. Anyways, if it's standard R-21 or R-19, than you'll have staples holding the sheets in place. If not, and it's the blown-in insulation, than you'll have plastic wrap holding it in place.

Wear all safety equipment such as dust mask and safety glasses, and just cut out your drywall in sections. It'll make it a lot easier and quicker to remove in sections, rather than piece by piece.

Now would be the time to move any lighting fixtures or reshape your cielings "landscape" if you would to whatever desired configuration you'd like. Make sure you have all proper permits needed if required, (most permits you can get for even $5, to $20 typically) follow all local building and electrical codes when doing this.

When you put up your new sheetrock, remember to use two coats of jointing compound with mesh tape, and one coat of the soft-set jointing compound to make sanding later easy.

And ensure you use a vapor mask when you apply your new texture, unless you want to leave your home in a bodybag, that is.... Just putting this out there, most people don't comprehend the fumes for wall and cieling textures, are heavily poisnous, even with a fan blowing. To not where a vapor mask (think of a gas mask when thinking vapor, not a dust mask) when doing texturing, well, you'd have to have a death wish, or very good medical coverage.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:48 PM   #34
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Removing Sheetrock ceiling


The celing was ONLY dipping where that 2x4 is pertruding below a bit. They put that 2x4 as part of the framing for the skylight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GarrettFiveZero View Post
Why do you have a 2x4 protruding past your cieling joist? That's wrong, and may be the source of the dip in your ceiling, if there are many more like it. That would explain a lot.

Also, where is the nearest load barring wall?

Another thing to put into consideration, your ceiling is sagging most likely because of a lack in support to the weight. Tear down ALL of that drywall, expose the entire ceiling. If any ceiling joists are bound together via stud, they are put together WRONG.

Most likely, you're going to have to run a support beam across the ceiling to an already loadbearing wall. Without actually seeing the rafters exposed and the rest of the ceiling exposed, can't say for certain just yet. But by looking at the sag, it is immediately apparent you have poor load bearing. And seeing 2x4s protruding past your raftors, poor construction added to it.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:16 PM   #35
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Removing Sheetrock ceiling


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The celing was ONLY dipping where that 2x4 is pertruding below a bit. They put that 2x4 as part of the framing for the skylight.
Was the skylight a new addition to the roof, or pre-planned? If it was a new addition, the contractor who did it, did a horrible job. If it was pre-planned, the builder did a horrible job. That should not, in anyway, at anytime have existed.

If that is the sole and only source of the dip, trim it flush with the raftor, and see how it works later on. If you still have a dip in your cieling, it wasn't the 2x4 alone. You have structural issues.

If the people who installed the ceiling light combined two or more rafters together tightly, preventing their movement, that whole skylight has to come out, and be rebuilt. Raftors are supposed to be free-floating to allow forces to flex and move without tearing off your roof, or destroying the sides of your home.
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:43 PM   #36
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Removing Sheetrock ceiling


Thanks a lot Garret. I guess I'll take a pic of the skylight from up in the attic? FYI there is several feet of attic space until you hit the roof.


Quote:
Originally Posted by GarrettFiveZero View Post
Was the skylight a new addition to the roof, or pre-planned? If it was a new addition, the contractor who did it, did a horrible job. If it was pre-planned, the builder did a horrible job. That should not, in anyway, at anytime have existed.

If that is the sole and only source of the dip, trim it flush with the raftor, and see how it works later on. If you still have a dip in your cieling, it wasn't the 2x4 alone. You have structural issues.

If the people who installed the ceiling light combined two or more rafters together tightly, preventing their movement, that whole skylight has to come out, and be rebuilt. Raftors are supposed to be free-floating to allow forces to flex and move without tearing off your roof, or destroying the sides of your home.

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