JOIN DIYCHATROOM TODAY!

tns1 · 09-12-2009, 01:10 AM

I am putting a sub-panel in my garage. There is a 1x4 diagonal in the stud space I want to use, such that the panel will not sit deep enough to mount properly. To avoid the diagonal I would either have to mount the panel very low, very high, 5ft futher away, or mount it non-flush. What code section talks about these diagonal members?

If I cut out that section, I'd be restoring at least some of the structural integrity by attaching the metal panel to both studs.

GBR in WA · 09-12-2009, 02:17 PM

What is the exterior siding material? Any blackboard, foil-board or plywood as sheating?
Is the garage wall attached to the house?
Be safe, Gary

Wildie · 09-12-2009, 02:43 PM

I would consider cutting the diagonal 1X4 out in the area where the panel is to be placed.
Then I would install two, 2X4 diagonals above and below the panel.

tns1 · 09-12-2009, 02:48 PM

Found it in Section 2308.9.3 Bracing:
1. Nominal I-inch by 4-inch (25 mm by 102 mm) continuous diagonal braces let into top and bottom plates and intervening studs, placed at an angle not more than 60 degrees (1.0 rad) or less than 45 degrees..

If I assume this bracing is necessary, what is a suitable replacement?
The section discusses alternatives, mainly various types of sheathing. Any sheathing added to the inside of the wall would need a big opening for the panel which kinda defeats the purpose. The other side is exterior siding which I'm not going to touch. A u-shaped steel bracket 1/4" or less thick would fit fine, if I could get one.

How is bracing handled where the entire stud space is taken up by a duct or panel?

tns1 · 09-12-2009, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GBR in WA

What is the exterior siding material? Any blackboard, foil-board or plywood as sheating?
Is the garage wall attached to the house?
Be safe, Gary

Garage is attached, siding is not sheeting, but 8" horiz boards angled out at the bottom. Not sure what that is called.

tns1 · 09-12-2009, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildie

I would consider cutting the diagonal 1X4 out in the area where the panel is to be placed.
Then I would install two, 2X4 diagonals above and below the panel.

I could do that, but this is a panel, so I'd be drilling large holes in those diagonals to pass wires and conduits.

GBR in WA · 09-12-2009, 04:03 PM

You will be fine not replacing it as the garage top plates tie into the house's top plates with a second floor or a roof above for the shear flow. I cannot see a problem unless you are in a high wind area. Install ply fillers if needed next to the box, securing the box on both sides for shear transfer every 4". If still worried, install a Simpson diagonal brace on the inside of garage wall close to the other: http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...c-twb-rcwb.asp
Be safe, Gary

vsheetz · 09-12-2009, 04:22 PM

It's a subpanel in a garage - what is wrong with mounting it high? And maybe one stud bay over to maybe bring it somewhat lower?

to keep the location, I would probably cut out the 1x4 wind brace and mount a sheet or two of plywood to replace the shear capability.

Wildie · 09-12-2009, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tns1

I could do that, but this is a panel, so I'd be drilling large holes in those diagonals to pass wires and conduits.

How shall i say this? The 2X4 bracing would installed 'vertically' so wiring could run in front of, or behind.
The bracing would not be run in the same plane as the wall studs.

tns1 · 10-20-2009, 10:54 PM

I cut the brace and put the box where I wanted it to be. Attached it to each stud with several large screws. I'll probably add some horiz bracing as I go.

On to the next problem:
I have to connect some large service wires between the two boxes, and they would normally be in a metallic, pvc or flex type conduit. I'd end up boring a large hole thru the same 3 studs that support the boxes (and my roof). It might need to be 2" conduit which leaves only 0.5" or so on each side. I didn't realize the wires and conduit would end up so large.

If I can, I'd rather use a few smaller dia conduit sections, or get an exemption to not use conduit, but thats for the city to tell me.

I can't be the first one to have this problem. How big of a hole can you drill thru a stud and still be OK?
I can't easily add extra studs since I have other conduit coming up thru the sill plate. Are there metal brackets or something I could use?

elkwd7 · 10-21-2009, 12:21 AM

Years have gone by and the same principle applies. This sounds like a let in brace design to aide in the plumb and line process during the framing stage. It is not necessary. Is the exterior stucco, siding etc. these all give some shear value and are typical framing specs...

tns1 · 10-21-2009, 05:14 PM

In the case where you have to bore a large hole or series of holes thru a 2x4 stud, is there a standard practice to add strength back to that stud like adding a metal bracket of some type?

GBR in WA · 10-21-2009, 08:15 PM

Yep: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/HSS-SS.asp
Your local box store may have a different brand, same principle.
Be safe, Gary

tns1 · 10-22-2009, 02:10 PM

Exactly what I was hoping to find. Thanks!

jogr · 10-22-2009, 05:53 PM

I must be risk averse (or maybe lazy) but I would have mounted the box and run the conduit on the wall surface rather than cutting all that framing - it's a garage right?.

Yes, in theory the box will perform the same function as the brace but now how many studs are you going to cut nearly through in between these two boxes? The simpson hardware information does say that they are Not a complete replacement for the removed material. If you've got one stud to cut through that's one thing but if you've got a bunch of wall studs to cut through I'd be reluctant to start cutting.

There are ways to minimize the visual impact of surface mounted conduit that might work if you don't like the looks of the conduit in the garage (shelves/cabinets/soffits).