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Old 01-26-2012, 12:54 PM   #16
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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dutchmans work extremely well, your basically removing wood that has failed and replacing with new. ive done it many times and its worked every time.. ive tried the clamp method 3 times twice it failed even with letting the glue cure overnight,
If he cuts out the old and puts in new he's going to have to have very exact measurements and very precise cuts. He will need everything very flush and square since this is a door. If its not that then the door probably won't work properly.

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Old 01-26-2012, 01:17 PM   #17
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Really bad door frame split and then some


If he puts new in how would you all suggest he attaches it? I personally would use biscuits.

http://www.americanfurnituredsgn.com...01/ShaveN3.jpg
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:11 PM   #18
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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Originally Posted by jasin View Post
If he cuts out the old and puts in new he's going to have to have very exact measurements and very precise cuts. He will need everything very flush and square since this is a door. If its not that then the door probably won't work properly.

as long as its within a 1 /16th it'll be fine, fill any small gaps with bondo and sand it flush.. then regain the hinge mortise
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Old 01-26-2012, 04:21 PM   #19
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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If he puts new in how would you all suggest he attaches it? I personally would use biscuits.

http://www.americanfurnituredsgn.com...01/ShaveN3.jpg
Biscuits are good,

We just used a couple a screws, maybe 3 or 4 making sure to keep away from strike or hinge location, through the edge. Then shim it solid to the studs. Predrill your hinge and use longer screws that go into the stud.
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Old 01-26-2012, 05:16 PM   #20
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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Biscuits are good,

We just used a couple a screws, maybe 3 or 4 making sure to keep away from strike or hinge location, through the edge. Then shim it solid to the studs. Predrill your hinge and use longer screws that go into the stud.
The screws for the new wood would have to be countersunk? Also, if screws are to big or not screwed in really straight it can split the new wood could it not?

Last edited by jasin; 01-26-2012 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:45 PM   #21
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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ive tried the clamp method 3 times twice it failed even with letting the glue cure overnight,
Glue is not strong enough. Have to use epoxy.
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:07 PM   #22
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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The screws for the new wood would have to be countersunk? Also, if screws are to big or not screwed in really straight it can split the new wood could it not?
Yes predrill and countersink, and I use yellow carpenters glue.

This is not a fancy or even absolute right method, it is quick, cheap and easy. and holds up OK. Because you are shimming solid and screwing into a stud.
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Old 01-27-2012, 03:08 PM   #23
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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Glue is not strong enough. Have to use epoxy.

if your using a dutchman with new wood, wood glue will hold fine as long as the gluing surface is large enough.. wood glue has 8x times the strenght of wood, if the joint is properly clamped while the glue cures the wood will fail before the glue joint does.

lepage use to have a demo video of it proving this.. we didnt belive it until we tested it. very true
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:06 PM   #24
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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if your using a dutchman with new wood, wood glue will hold fine as long as the gluing surface is large enough.. wood glue has 8x times the strenght of wood, if the joint is properly clamped while the glue cures the wood will fail before the glue joint does.

lepage use to have a demo video of it proving this.. we didnt belive it until we tested it. very true
That is very true, but I think we were talking about in that post glue not holding when you just glue and clamp and nothing else.

Also, unlike with fixing a table, cabinet, or whatever else around the house, doors are mainly for security so they should be as strong as possible. Meaning, we should, imo, use the strongest joints, glues, etc. possible.

And in carpentry I would encourage you all try to stay away from glues that are NOT non-voc or at least low voc. Many vocs, according to the epa, can cause cancer.

Last edited by jasin; 01-27-2012 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:13 PM   #25
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Really bad door frame split and then some


By the way, Epoxy Bonding in Wood in carpentry is not an unheard of or unorthodox practice.

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Old 01-27-2012, 07:05 PM   #26
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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Yes predrill and countersink, and I use yellow carpenters glue.

This is not a fancy or even absolute right method, it is quick, cheap and easy. and holds up OK. Because you are shimming solid and screwing into a stud.
If this is an exterior door then I would definitely use flat head square drive stainless steel screws. Preferably the locking kind as they will hold much stronger.
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:12 PM   #27
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk View Post
if your using a dutchman with new wood, wood glue will hold fine as long as the gluing surface is large enough.. wood glue has 8x times the strenght of wood, if the joint is properly clamped while the glue cures the wood will fail before the glue joint does.

lepage use to have a demo video of it proving this.. we didnt belive it until we tested it. very true
Took Tae Kwan Do (sp) years ago, had to break boards that were glued together, they never broke on glue joint.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:53 AM   #28
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Really bad door frame split and then some


lol, maeling, when i started out in trade school 10 years ago. they made us glue two boards together and clamp them overnight.. the next day we took a chisel and drove it into the joint with our hammer, the wood completely split but 1/2" away from the glue joint

jasin your correct about epoxy for high voc's, however locally next to no carpenters bother with epoxy as wood glue works fine. epoxy is saved for bonding thin sheet metal to walls. and for stone countertops.

nowadays though with more and more people being highly sensitive to different materials.. we have to be more careful with what products we use
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:53 PM   #29
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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lol, maeling, when i started out in trade school 10 years ago. they made us glue two boards together and clamp them overnight.. the next day we took a chisel and drove it into the joint with our hammer, the wood completely split but 1/2" away from the glue joint

jasin your correct about epoxy for high voc's, however locally next to no carpenters bother with epoxy as wood glue works fine. epoxy is saved for bonding thin sheet metal to walls. and for stone countertops.

nowadays though with more and more people being highly sensitive to different materials.. we have to be more careful with what products we use
I did not say epoxies have high voc, even though many do, I said a lot of wood glues do. Nevertheless, the epoxy I suggested is actually non-voc and specifically made for wood so there should be no issues with that.

Oh, and you are wrong about epoxies are only for metal or counter tops. They actually used epoxy to repair some of the wood on the log cabins at yellow stone. Epoxy bonding in wood is not an uncommon practice.

Matter of fact, a lot of home owners associations and municipalities actually wont let cut out the old and use new on older houses. It supposedly takes from the history of the house. I personally do not agree, but it is true that they are like that in some places. And in cases like that epoxy and clamping is the only method that can really be used.

Last edited by jasin; 01-29-2012 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:57 PM   #30
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Really bad door frame split and then some


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Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk View Post
lol, maeling, when i started out in trade school 10 years ago. they made us glue two boards together and clamp them overnight.. the next day we took a chisel and drove it into the joint with our hammer, the wood completely split but 1/2" away from the glue joint

jasin your correct about epoxy for high voc's, however locally next to no carpenters bother with epoxy as wood glue works fine. epoxy is saved for bonding thin sheet metal to walls. and for stone countertops.

nowadays though with more and more people being highly sensitive to different materials.. we have to be more careful with what products we use
I know you are used to doing things one way, but times are changing.

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