Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Carpentry

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-29-2011, 08:25 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Udall Kansas
Posts: 33
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Re-finishing floors


I am getting ready to re-finish the floors in my house that was built in 1940. The floors are the old tongue and groove pine solid wood floors. I am wondering what the best step by step course of action would be. I am ofcourse going to sand off all of the old finish before applying any new material. Since it is sucha large area I am not really wanting to scuff up the polyurethane imbetween coats, is there a product that is specially made for floors that you do not have to do this on, or is there an easy way to do this? Any help will be appreciated!! Thanks guys!

cambishop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2011, 09:29 AM   #2
Military Mom of 4
 
Snav's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 974
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Re-finishing floors


What do you mean by 'scuff it up' - are you referring to sanding the poly between coats?

This is only necessary if your stain/poly raises the grain of the wood. This is different depending on which brand / exactly which product you use - on the can or their info on their website it should tell specifics.

Usually a sanding between coats doesn't have to be done with a drum or belt sander - a light hand sanding is sometimes all that's necessary and this also prevents over-sanding which tends to happen with electrics.

__________________
At this present moment in time I am making cabinets for the kitchen - just in case you wanted to know what I'm doing when I'm not around.
Snav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2011, 09:34 AM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Udall Kansas
Posts: 33
Rewards Points: 25
Default

Re-finishing floors


Yes I was refering to the light sanding between coats. I was just wondering if there was a product that did not require this since it was such a large area.
cambishop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2011, 10:06 AM   #4
DIY staff
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kane county,Illinois
Posts: 21,863
Rewards Points: 2,374
Default

Re-finishing floors


Rent a large floor buffer with a sanding screen---that's the usual way that floor finisher use--

It will make a fast job of rubbing out the finish---Mike--
__________________
New members: Adding your location to your profile helps in many ways.--M--
oh'mike is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to oh'mike For This Useful Post:
Snav (09-29-2011)
Old 09-29-2011, 10:13 AM   #5
Too Short? Cut it Again!
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,635
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Re-finishing floors


Think about renting an orbital floor sander rather than a drum sander. They are a little easier for the diyer to handle although you may spend more on paper. They can also sand right up to the edges with baseboards removed. A drum sander can really go through a soft pine floor in a hurry.

Make sure you set an nail heads that might have popped up. There should not be many in a t&g floor though.

Pine is a soft wood and you may raise the grain with your first coat of finish. A screen or fine grit paper on the sander should work out between coats and it will go quickly.
user1007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2011, 11:11 AM   #6
Member
 
iminaquagmire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 370
Rewards Points: 250
Default

Re-finishing floors


Waterlox does not need sanding between coats. Its a modified tung oil and will meld with itself after each coat. For this reason it can also be touched up very easily.
iminaquagmire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2011, 10:37 AM   #7
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 10
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Re-finishing floors


One trick that we've used over the years is to attach progressively finer grit sandpaper to a drywall pole sander, starting with a mid-range grit after the first coat then working your way up to an extremely fine grit before the fourth or final coat. Sorry, but I've never refinished hardwoods without sanding between coats of poly as the gentle scuffing increases the surface area of the lower coat thus giving better adhesion to the newer top coat. I don't refinish floors every day, maybe 2-3 per year, so it's always been a matter of sticking with a tried-n'-true process versus saving a little on labor and having the possibility of a call back later. The sanding also removes/levels errant bubbles, streaks or pooling spots that are sometimes hard to spot in a large room area. The idea of using the pole sander is to keep off the knees as much as possible! It's a fairly quick process, just buy plenty of pads as they tend to gum up fairly quick.

Like you, I'd be interested in hearing from pros who've used the 'no-sand' polys and what their long-term experiences have been...

$49 Handyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Resurfacing Wood floors roxksears Building & Construction 2 10-23-2009 08:50 AM
Refinshing floors before painting walls? ponchoman1 Flooring 6 03-14-2009 04:21 PM
damage to prefinished floors normal during a remodel? zzman Remodeling 15 12-04-2008 05:25 PM
Want to try to refinish hardwood floors and parquet floors proofer Flooring 11 04-20-2008 05:59 PM
Washing my wood floors J187 Flooring 1 11-14-2006 10:13 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.