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cambishop 09-29-2011 08:25 AM

Re-finishing floors
I am getting ready to re-finish the floors in my house that was built in 1940. The floors are the old tongue and groove pine solid wood floors. I am wondering what the best step by step course of action would be. I am ofcourse going to sand off all of the old finish before applying any new material. Since it is sucha large area I am not really wanting to scuff up the polyurethane imbetween coats, is there a product that is specially made for floors that you do not have to do this on, or is there an easy way to do this? Any help will be appreciated!! Thanks guys!

Snav 09-29-2011 09:29 AM

What do you mean by 'scuff it up' - are you referring to sanding the poly between coats?

This is only necessary if your stain/poly raises the grain of the wood. This is different depending on which brand / exactly which product you use - on the can or their info on their website it should tell specifics.

Usually a sanding between coats doesn't have to be done with a drum or belt sander - a light hand sanding is sometimes all that's necessary and this also prevents over-sanding which tends to happen with electrics.

cambishop 09-29-2011 09:34 AM

Yes I was refering to the light sanding between coats. I was just wondering if there was a product that did not require this since it was such a large area.

oh'mike 09-29-2011 10:06 AM

Rent a large floor buffer with a sanding screen---that's the usual way that floor finisher use--

It will make a fast job of rubbing out the finish---Mike--

user1007 09-29-2011 10:13 AM

Think about renting an orbital floor sander rather than a drum sander. They are a little easier for the diyer to handle although you may spend more on paper. They can also sand right up to the edges with baseboards removed. A drum sander can really go through a soft pine floor in a hurry.

Make sure you set an nail heads that might have popped up. There should not be many in a t&g floor though.

Pine is a soft wood and you may raise the grain with your first coat of finish. A screen or fine grit paper on the sander should work out between coats and it will go quickly.

iminaquagmire 09-29-2011 11:11 AM

Waterlox does not need sanding between coats. Its a modified tung oil and will meld with itself after each coat. For this reason it can also be touched up very easily.

$49 Handyman 10-01-2011 10:37 AM

One trick that we've used over the years is to attach progressively finer grit sandpaper to a drywall pole sander, starting with a mid-range grit after the first coat then working your way up to an extremely fine grit before the fourth or final coat. Sorry, but I've never refinished hardwoods without sanding between coats of poly as the gentle scuffing increases the surface area of the lower coat thus giving better adhesion to the newer top coat. I don't refinish floors every day, maybe 2-3 per year, so it's always been a matter of sticking with a tried-n'-true process versus saving a little on labor and having the possibility of a call back later. The sanding also removes/levels errant bubbles, streaks or pooling spots that are sometimes hard to spot in a large room area. The idea of using the pole sander is to keep off the knees as much as possible! It's a fairly quick process, just buy plenty of pads as they tend to gum up fairly quick.

Like you, I'd be interested in hearing from pros who've used the 'no-sand' polys and what their long-term experiences have been...

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