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Old 09-05-2012, 01:26 PM   #16
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Don't look for a Stair rail hanger, with a fancy tightening system or even a hex shank. Just a hanger bolt, then do it the old timey way with fender washer, washer, and nut on end of bolt, possibly a jam nut too. Might mean a bigger access hole to get a wrench in there. Will mean a lot of short turns with wrench. When you plug the access hole use barely enough glue to hold it or hope for friction fit, easier to take out if you ever need to tighten it.
Don't know what kind of rosette you're using, but if solid center, drill hole to fit hanger, a dab of adhesive on back to prevent spin, when you tighten hanger it will be clamped against wall.

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Old 09-05-2012, 01:34 PM   #17
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I didn't, just asked for a hanger bolt, the longest they had was 4"
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:05 PM   #18
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They're out there keep looking, whats your location? May have to above retail to suppliers or on line.
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:07 PM   #19
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Maryland outside DC. Yeah probably just going to order online
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:15 PM   #20
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Screw the rosette into the rail from the backside of the rosette with deck screws. Screw rosette with rail into wall, one screw on top and one on bottom. Plug the two 3/8" holes with plugs taken from back of rosette.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:17 PM   #21
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I gotta back up. All we wanta do is fasten end of rail to wall, right? Why do you need such a long screw? You got 1/2 drywall with 2x framing behind it don't you? The 2x may even be turned broad side out so you only got 2" of grip anyway. Or did i miss something?
If Miller's rosette idea doesn't appeal to you, then go back to his drawing, get a lag screw of whatever length you want, put a washer, then a fender washer on it, screw it into wall depth so head goes into access hole, drop rail on it, tighten lag screw. Accurate pilot hole in wall and wax on screw will help. Now go do newel, which you are going to screw into from inside newel? Or did i miss something else?

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Old 09-10-2012, 06:52 AM   #22
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Done. Need to figure out what stain to use next, before setting the balusters.

I ended up using a few 18ga nails to secure the rosette to the wall and used 5" hanger bolts to drive into the framing. Made and plugged the holes as Millertyme suggested.

Inside the newels I used 3" lag bolts with a fender washer so nothing is visible from the outside there.

Thanks for the help all
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:37 AM   #23
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Some close ups please, the rosette, etc. So where did you finally find your hanger bolts? I did a short search and found all kinds of them ,length and material wise, pretty good bargains...for a 100 bolt lot. Or buy one at a fair price and pay 12 buck shipping charge.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:57 AM   #24
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I did the second option, from http://www.westfiremfg.com/. I chose them since all of the other supplies came from there.

I'll snap a few pics tonight when I get home.
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:11 AM   #25
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Well, whadda ya know. I searched hanger bolts, when should have searched stair parts and materials. Thanks for link.
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Measure twice, cut once.
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If you hook your thumb over your belt you won't hit it with the hammer or leave it layin on the saw table.
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:46 PM   #26
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Here you go

Rosette was made out of newels leftovers. I used a little $30 jig i got from Amazon to drill the baluster holes to a 1" depth. Still have to sand it and get everything ready for clear.






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Old 09-10-2012, 07:13 PM   #27
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Sweet.
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If you hook your thumb over your belt you won't hit it with the hammer or leave it layin on the saw table.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:11 AM   #28
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Do you plan to leave the plowed rail filets out of your rail, I noticed that you have the rail drilled for round top spindles instead of square top spindles.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:33 AM   #29
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Yes not using them
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:03 PM   #30
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You should have bought the proper rail without the fillet. It doesn't look professional like that. I would have glued in the fillet before drilling the holes.


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