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fredhedd 09-11-2007 03:54 PM

rafter support
 
is it alright to completely remove one rafter if i double up the adjacent ones?

i own a building that had a porch addition already installed on it when i bought it. they installed an a-frame roof on top of the porch. the addition on the roof runs perpendicular to the original roofline. above the porch ceiling there is a room big enough for a bedroom that is not being utilized. it's kind of like wasted space. it looks like it was being used for small storage because there is already a small doorway cut out in between two of the rafters of the original house leading on top of the porch. i'd like to make it a full doorway and connect the entire upstairs. if i take out one rafter it will be enough of a doorway for me.

DeeTee 09-12-2007 07:40 PM

Consider The Loads
 
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I'm having a little trouble visualizing this one, but one way to shorten a rafter is to head it off by running a header between the rafters on either side of it and thereby transferring the load to them. Attached is an example of a roof framing plan where this was done to accomodate a stovepipe. You can see it at about the center of the plan just off the ridge. Of course, you do have to consider the loads and the distance you are transferring the load and so I'm not saying this is the way to go in your case. Considering the loads is also the key if you want to double up the rafters on either side. By doing that you are still essentially removing a rafter. Adding 1 and 1/2" to each side isn't going to pick up any load between them. If the roof was over-built to begin with...it might be okay. If the roof was underbuilt and you don't have snow, wind and other loads...who knows.:whistling2:

jproffer 09-12-2007 08:34 PM

I didn't read the entire reply, so maybe DeeTee already mentioned this...but make sure the room above is built to carry bedroom loads. There could be a reason it has always been used for small storage.

If you get some particulars (joist size and spacing, subfloor thickness and type) we can try to help, but an engineer in YOUR area would be the best and safest bet. A few hundred dollar fee to make SURE that you or your wife/kids/all of the above aren't going to fall through the floor is well worth the money IMO.

fredhedd 09-14-2007 06:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)
sorry for the bad explanation. i took a min to draw something up on paint. this should be more helpful. the blue lines are the rafters that are on the original building. the red space in between is where someone already removed the sheathing for an entrance way into the 'storage space'. i would like to remove the rafter that meets the apex of the roof on the addition so i will have an adequately sized door, instead of just the space in between one rafter.

crecore 09-15-2007 08:00 PM

Just add a sister rafter on either side doubling them up to suppor the load of the valley. Tie between them as well in a spot that could be like a header. Think of it basically like adding stairs through a floor system.

fredhedd 09-16-2007 01:33 AM

1 Attachment(s)
awesome.
i have two more questions about this and i'm good to go. the 'currently' picture is of what the inside of the 'storage space' looks like. those other extra colored lines are 2x4's that are installed on about every third rafter. there are maybe five or six of them up there. the rest of the house does not have them. i can take very good high quality photos and post them here if necessary.

i'm wondering if they are structural and/or needed and if can safely remove them. they greatly inhibit my walking space because they are about halfway up from the floor. i was thinking that if they were structural i might be able to make each one look like the 'idea' picture. please bare with me here. i do not know what i'm doing but am not going to rush into anything or do something inappropriate.

lastly : since you guys are being such a good help to me i was wondering if any of you know how many licks it's going to take me to get to the center of this tootsie pop. there was a wise old owl in my backyard whom i think knew the answer but my son shot him with a pellet rifle last year. i didn't want to start on the tootsie pop not knowing if it was going to be a big project or not.

thanks in advance.

Big Bob 09-16-2007 07:36 AM

So, you want to remove your collar ties and replace with scissors bracing.

Your project looks (do-a-ble) but you have many other considerations.

If you even just like your family a little bit, please get a design pro or work with your local building dept to stay out of trouble.

fredhedd 09-16-2007 07:43 PM

ok, will do. thanks.

Kapster 09-27-2007 09:23 PM

New to the site.

Trying to find a product called "Super Stud" was made by a company called W Baikens in Lombard, IL. I found it used on the outside structual wall while gutting my kitchen. It is used to reunite a spliced structual 2x4's were piping is traversinga wall.It is a heavy gauge metal about 1/8" thick which bridegs the gap between the cut 2x4.


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