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jjrbus 01-10-2011 09:23 AM

PVC to bottom of exterior door jamb
 
I have an exterior door that does not appear to be very old. The bottoms of the jamb on both sides are rotten. I have a new jamb and some 1/2 inch PVC and Gorilla Glue.
Do you see any problems with cutting 1/2" off the jamb and attaching cut to fit PVC to the bottom of the jamb with Gorilla Glue? I have the Jamb, the glue and the PVC, so it would be a free repair.
I am very fond of my money (cheap) and do not want to spend $50 on a composite jamb.
JIm

rjniles 01-10-2011 11:58 AM

I have done this repair many times. I buy a 8 foot length of composite exterior jamb stock for the repair. Not cheap, I think the last one was $33. I cut off the bottom of the jamb with my oscillating saw. On the hinge side I usually cut right below the bottom hinge (about 8.5 inches). You will have to break the bottom free from the threshold, it is screwed or stapled in place. Make sure the jamb is well shimmed behind the lowe hinge. Cut a piece of the jamb stock to length, put in place, shim and secure with finish nails (I use my 16 ga pneumatic nailer). Cut the latch side out and repeat. I also remove the wood brick molding (the whole length) and replace with PVC brick mold. It is important to make sure the jamb is secured to the framing before you remove the brick mold. Often the door is installed by just nailing thru the brick mold. Poor practice but I see it all the time.

Since the threshold will be unattached from the jamb, it needs to be secured down. I drive a few rustproof screws into the sub-floor (or use Tapcons if a concrete slab).

TheDoorGuy 01-10-2011 04:00 PM

Do you only have 1/2" of damage?
If so you can probably dig out the water damaged wood.
Make sure that the subsurface is dry and sound.
Fill the area with Bondo auto body filler.
Sand and paint.
Only thing about Bondo is that it sets up pretty fast.
You have to work it after it has firmed up a little but
before it sets up hard or you will have to grind it off.

jjrbus 01-13-2011 08:34 AM

Thanks for the responses and good ideas. I have a new jamb (free) and the present one is pretty tore up so will just replace it. I'll get my finishing ax out and cut 1/2 inch off the bottom of the jamb and Gorilla glue 1/2" PVC on before installing.
JIm

rjniles 01-13-2011 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjrbus (Post 569145)
Thanks for the responses and good ideas. I have a new jamb (free) and the present one is pretty tore up so will just replace it. I'll get my finishing ax out and cut 1/2 inch off the bottom of the jamb and Gorilla glue 1/2" PVC on before installing.
JIm

If you are going to put a piece of PVC on the bottom of the jamb (good idea BTW), I would drive 2 SS screws up from the bottom in addition to the G glue.

jjrbus 01-13-2011 10:14 AM

Glad you posted that. I was going to use screws on it, but did not think of stainless. JIm

mrgins 01-13-2011 03:57 PM

Wouldn't hurt to prime/seal the cut jambs where they meet the pvc

jjrbus 01-13-2011 04:58 PM

I'm thinking that a liberal application of Gorilla Glue would be better? Not sure on that one, seem' like the right thing to do???????? JIm

Diverboyz 05-10-2013 01:35 PM

Gorilla Glue may not join your wood jamb to PVC. Gorilla Glue does not bond with non-porous materials. You may wish to test a scrap pc. of PVC moulding and a scrap of wood. I woul put a pc. of each together, cut so the clean edges mesh perfectly, then clamp and glue. Let this dry overnight. If it bonds well, go ahead and try it with the jamb. But I would replace at least 6" of the wood jamb. You don't really know how far up that water can splash!


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