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prehung interior doors - hang with or without door slab

3K views 18 replies 11 participants last post by  Willie T 
#1 ·
I'd like everyone's thoughts about the preferred method of installing a prehung solid core door. Is it better to install the door frame with or without door slab in place?
 
#4 ·
i do it a little bit of A and alittle bit of B

i take the door off the hinges first to set the hinge side plumb.. then i put it back on the hinges to set the margin on top and the latch side. i worked for a trim contractor years ago that would flip if you took it off at all. i could never do it that way though
 
#5 ·
There are a few ways to hang interior doors.
1. Put hinges on the hinge side and plumb them with a long level or level and straight-edge. Then install door in jamb and install in opening. Attach hinge side and then shim other side so gap is even all around door.
2. Install jamb by shimming hinge side, the put in door and finish shimming other side so even gap around door.
3. Do as above but leave the door in entire time.
4. Some install trim (casing) to one side of the jamb and leave the door in and nail the trim to the wall while keeping an even gap around the door.

Probably other variations I can not think of right now.
 
#6 ·
Yeah I do the same as Kirk above (when working on my own)

I take the door off the frame, put the frame in the opening. Centre frame, level top. Shim and fasten hinge side, hang door, use door to get proper reveal and fasten latch jamb.

I just find this a lot easier, when working on my own. Especially if you are installing on a finish floor and have to cut one of the jambs to get it level.
 
#7 ·
I'm pretty sure I've hung well over 500 doors in my day and have never taken one off the hinges. Last week I set half a dozen 3080, 2-panel cherry veneer doors.

The door has to be in the frame and the hinge side completely fastened before the head and keeper jamb can be accurately set. A slight twist at the bottom of the hinge side will alter how the door hangs and could cause binding at the hinge.

I use a tapered shim to set my margins, rather than eye-balling the gap.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I use a 6'-6" level and shim the bottom and top of the hinged side of the rough opening plumb and then open the door and shoot the jamb into the shims. Now the hinged side is plumb and straight. Then I close the door and shoot the reveals to the door. I've done that my whole life and for me is the best way.
 
#9 ·
I use a 6'10" level and shim the bottom and top of the hinged side of the rough opening plumb and then open the door and shoot the jamb into the shims. Now the hinged side is plumb and straight. Then I close the door and shoot the reveals to the door. I've done that my whole life and for me is the best way.

That's how I've always done my own except I don't have a 6' level.
 
#10 ·
I think for some of us it depends how the doors come. As I understand it some come on the hinges already. Ours are usually flat packed and we have to put the jambs together and put the hinges on the door.

So for me I check the opening for level and square, make the jamb, put the jamb in the opening, shim it and shoot the nails in, hang the door, and shim the knobr side leaving an even gap and shoot it in.
 
#13 ·
i was just going to say that also.. unless joe hangs a ton of 7' doors. as mentioned earlier ive hung a ton of doors but only 5 or 6 doors that were 7 fters. they were custom orders for a vet clinic we built 2 years ago

ive tried to hang doors with them still on the jamb via setting the jamb in the opening then tacking the frame in the r.o.. every time i would go to open the door just slightly to be able to reach in and around to set shims the whole thing would fall all out even when tacked.. so i gave up on it.. this was while doing production trim where it was every man for himself except for there being a cutman who precut all casings for the installers.
 
#14 ·
woodworkbykirk said:
i was just going to say that also.. unless joe hangs a ton of 7' doors. as mentioned earlier ive hung a ton of doors but only 5 or 6 doors that were 7 fters. they were custom orders for a vet clinic we built 2 years ago

ive tried to hang doors with them still on the jamb via setting the jamb in the opening then tacking the frame in the r.o.. every time i would go to open the door just slightly to be able to reach in and around to set shims the whole thing would fall all out even when tacked.. so i gave up on it.. this was while doing production trim where it was every man for himself except for there being a cutman who precut all casings for the installers.
You nail the casing to the jamb first, then stick the thing in the hole, plumbing the hinge side, then nail the casing first, which holds the door perfect while you put in your shims and nail the jamb.
I can't think of an easier way.
(and don't forget to pull the duplex before you nail the striker side).
 
#15 · (Edited)
I usually leave the door in the jamb. But in the little article I wrote for this task in the "How To" section, ( SEE IT HERE) I recommended taking the door out for the first step of installing the hinge side........(like Kirk said in post #4 of this thread) simply because it makes it easier for a novice to handle a jamb without a heavy door in it.
 
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#16 ·
Willie T said:
I usually leave the door in the jamb. But in the little article I wrote for this task in the "How To" section, ( SEE IT HERE) I recommended taking the door out for the first step of installing the hinge side........(like Kirk said in post #4 of this thread) simply because it makes it easier for a novice to handle a jamb without a heavy door in it.
Yeah. That's good for a novice.
 
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