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Old 02-25-2013, 01:41 PM   #16
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Preferred cove molding size when using tread brackets?


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When you say mitered brackets I envision the front edge to be mitered, is this what you refer to mitered brackets.

Sorry to side track your thread hkeiner.
No problem. In fact I am glad you are stepping in with more questions on the subject. The more discussion, the more I will learn to help me decide on a final design and buy the right materials. By the way, my use of the term "mitered tread bracket" meant that the front vertical edge of the tread bracket is cut at 45 degrees and the left vertical edge of the new riser is cut at 45 degrees. They are then joined/glued together so that there is no butt end showing from either the riser or the bracket.


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Old 02-25-2013, 03:20 PM   #17
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Preferred cove molding size when using tread brackets?


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Originally Posted by hkeiner View Post
No problem. In fact I am glad you are stepping in with more questions on the subject of 1/2" mitered tread brackets. The more discussion on this subject, the more I will learn to help me decide on a final design and buy the right materials to do the install. By the way, my use of the term "mitered tread bracket" meant that the front vertical edge of the tread bracket is cut at 45 degrees and the left vertical edge of the new riser is cut at 45 degrees. They are then joined/glued together so that there is no butt end showing from either the riser or the bracket.


That is my understanding also, that is the way I use to do mine. The down side is you have to have the length of the riser the exact length when mitering the bracket and riser.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:12 PM   #18
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Preferred cove molding size when using tread brackets?


Yous both are correct and with the rider and tread being a 1/2" longer your back end of the return will also be out 1/2" so then you run the mitered front of the bracket behind that return and cut it flush with the underside of the tread. The next bracket will be cut flush with the back of the first bracket. You just have to make sure your brackets fill that entire space. For example if your tread return runs 1" past the the face of that rider you must have a bracket that's deeper than an inch. Doing it this way with mitered brackets means your bracket will still be under the tread. Your entire underside of the tread return will still be available for cove
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:13 PM   #19
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Preferred cove molding size when using tread brackets?


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Originally Posted by Jason34
Because on mitered brackets you r brackets will slide in behind that gap like i had said before. If he was doing face applied brackets then you dont have that gap but then the bracket would be underneath the return instead of under the tread.
If I understand correctly, you mean installing the brackets to the skirt first and then installing the treads on top so the inside edge of the tread return sits against the outside edge of the stair bracket. I like this idea, but I will have to confirm that the footprint of the bracket I plan to use is larger than the footprint of the return on the new treads I plan to use, like those on the below examples.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:12 PM   #20
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Preferred cove molding size when using tread brackets?


That is correct and that picture is exactly how it should be. When i build my stairs i use a template (basically a crap bracket) and build the entire stair and even block it before i install the brackets
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:19 PM   #21
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Preferred cove molding size when using tread brackets?


Well I will be, this ole man learned something new today, that is really nice. All these years and I never once thought about that, I have been doing it the hard way all the time, just too cool buddy.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:34 PM   #22
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Preferred cove molding size when using tread brackets?


Need anything else let me know
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:44 PM   #23
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Preferred cove molding size when using tread brackets?


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When i build my stairs i use a template (basically a crap bracket) and build the entire stair and even block it before i install the brackets
Are you saying that you hold/tack a temporary bracket in place against the skirt (to act as a spacer between the skirt and the return on the tread) while installing each riser, tread, and cove, and that you glue/nail in all the real brackets later?

If so, why do you do it this way instead of just gluing/nailing them in place one at a time while you are installing each tread and riser? I am thinking that what you described is an installtion tip/method that a newbie like me would benefit knowing more about.

Also, what does "block" mean?

Thanks.

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Old 02-26-2013, 03:08 AM   #24
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Preferred cove molding size when using tread brackets?


I build my stairs in a factory on a table face down so i use a template bracket holding it in place as i nail the tread and rider to the stringer. After i have all the treads and riders nailed i then wedge the box stringer. I then glue in my glue blocks to support everything and staple those in place as well as staple the bottom edge of the riders to the treads
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:15 PM   #25
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Preferred cove molding size when using tread brackets?


That sounds like an interesting job. It sure beats having to build a complete set of stairs on site where the bottom floor is level and the top floor is way out of level, makes ya want to pull your hair out. Do you custom build to situations like that in your shop or let the installer fix it?

I see why you refer to the outside board to a stringer because that is what it is in your shop, in the field we install another board over the stringer, a skirt board. The skirt board miters into the riser of each step. There is no need for a stair bracket with a mortised skirt but some folks just like the looks of them.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:58 AM   #26
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Preferred cove molding size when using tread brackets?


We do mitered stringers like you mentioned as well. Just muted the rider part of the stringer to meet the mitered riser.

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