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Old 03-12-2008, 11:13 AM   #1
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pre hung doors


I am hanging pre hung doors for the first time. The satin nickel hinges give the frame a nice look but the screws in the hinges that attach to the jamb don't snug up tight and I am assuming they are not reaching the 2 by 4 in the rough opening because they are to short. I put a long drywall screw behind the top hinge but I just don't feel comfortable having screws that will just continue to turn and maybe fall out over time. I am going to a specialty screw/nut manufacturer to get longer ones that will reach into the rough opening. Am I on the right track?

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Old 03-12-2008, 11:20 AM   #2
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I assume that this is an interior door. If so, the screws are only going to be attached to the door frame (Jamb), not into the framing.

The arrangement is differrent with exterior entry doors.

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Old 03-12-2008, 11:26 AM   #3
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Atlantic,
Yes, interior doors. The door has 3 hinges to carry the weight. So if the screws keep turning do you recommend putting something in the small holes to make the screw snug up? ( like shims or toothpicks) I just have this picture in my mind of the doors hinges moving.
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Old 03-12-2008, 11:30 AM   #4
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They shoud not keep turning. If they are, bring the doors back. (It sounds like you must have played around with the screws)

Otherwise, back the screws out, put wood glue in the holes, and re-insert screw. Allow to dry.
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:17 PM   #5
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Thanks Atlantic,
I talked to the manufacturer and he said off the record that he has used golf tees and glue. There is no way I can take these doors back. I have installed 3 and I found loose screws on all of them.You can't check the screws until you get home because of the packaging of the door which doesn't allow me to check. Glue and toothpicks are the order of the day.I think the screws are loose on the jambs because of the material they are made from. I think with 3 hinges carrying the weight just snugging them up with some help like you said ( glue ) should do the trick.I just can't have the hinges moving if I am trying to square the door.
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:25 PM   #6
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The other option is to drill the hole out. Add a wooden dowel into the hole with wood glue. Allow to dry. Start a screw hole with a drill. Then drive the screw with a driver. Finish with a manually with a screw driver (so as not to over-drive them)
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:27 PM   #7
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If there is a stud located close, behind the hinge location, you can add one longer screw in each hinge location, that will penetrate to the stud.
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:04 PM   #8
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Atlantic,
I have been putting one 2 " drywall screw behind the top hinge. I had heard someone else say that. I didn't do all of them but I guess while I have it apart I might as well. Thanks again and thanks for the dowl information. My 4th door has quite a few hinge screws that are actually tight. The guy who has been on for two weeks must have built that door. The rookie is still practicing.
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:12 PM   #9
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Glad to hear it's working out.
Realize also, that you can go to a Big Home Improvement Store and find matching (similar type) screws, if you want to. They would actually be stronger than the drywall screws.

Good Luck on the rest of the project.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:32 PM   #10
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Sounds like the screws have been stripped out by some "don't give a damn" employee at the mill manufacturer. It is fairly common. Like Atlantic said, if it is an interior (hollow) door, the screws into just the jamb material are adequate. If it is a solid core or wood door, it is best to get at least one screw through or behind the top hinge to prevent future sagging. Golf tees are a great fix for the stripped holes, as mentioned. Also, go to Lowes or such and find a self centering hinge bit made by General Tool , about $5. It will drill the pilot hole centered in the hinge hole, so that the screw head will seat squarly in the countersink. HD has this type of bit, but only in Ryobi, and it is trash, don't waste your money, as it does not clear the cuttings, and the sleeve is always stuck. If you happen to run across a "Vix", even better yet, as they are the original; in fact you may hear this type of bit generically called a vix bit. If you decide to install longer screws through the hinge, be aware that hinge screws are #9 screws. A #8 will recess into the countersink, and a #10 will not seat flush unless you redrill the countersink to fit. HD carries 2" hinge screws in the generic "brass" hinge tone by the hinge selection.

Last edited by troubleseeker; 03-12-2008 at 08:36 PM.
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Old 03-13-2008, 08:03 PM   #11
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Thanks Atlantic and Trouble Seeker,
I will search for long #9's for the hinge. My only concern is these hinges are satin nickel along with the screws so it might be a chore to find but I can always replace them later if I find them. Which means I will actually be screwing into the rough opening but that will definitely hold the hinges.I definitlely will go find the hinge bit.By the time I get good at this I will be done with my job. Ha! .......Paul
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Old 03-14-2008, 11:51 AM   #12
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I found the # 9s in Home depot in a 2" satin nickel. My luck is increasing as we get closer to St.Patricks Day. Moving along

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