posting tapered cedar siding

amakarevic

i just acquired some 11/16 x 8" cedar siding planks that i plan to side my shed with. the 11/16 is the thickness at the thick side and it tapers to pretty much 0 on the other side.

my idea was to post them thin side up but my dilemma was whether to overlap the last inch with the thick end of the next row or to actually trim it off and have no overlap. i would like to avoid having the last inch on the thin side exposed because i think it's fragile.

the advantages of trimming the last inch off is to make the surface thinner, i.e. more even and i think it would be easier to hang. but that could potentially leave or, with time, develop gaps between rows whereas overlapping would make sure there is no gaps.

thanks

bluebird5

you have to lap it or th wood behind it will rot due to water infiltration. The idea behind lapping it so the water runs down on piece and on to the next rather than behind the next piece. Lap it and use thicker corner boards if there is an issue with it sticking out

fungku

You gotta lap it.

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Gary in WA

Scroll through some of these books that have "Preview" under the title, nails, doors, sheds, bevel siding; http://www.google.com/search?tbm=bks...G=Search+Books

Gary

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amakarevic

so when it says "nail must penetrate solid wood 1.5 in" does "solid wood" mean just the 2x4 stud or the stud + sheathing, in other words is OSB sheathing considered "solid wood" ??

because when i went to the lumber yard to get the cedar, they also sold me 2" ring shank nails to use with it but that will go 1.5" in 2x4+sheathing, not just 2x4.

fungku

Solid wood includes sheathing + blocking or studs.

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mrgins

did they sell you Maze nails?

amakarevic

Bulls Eye Nails

mem

I would make sure to use stainless nails too. Other types can stain your wood as it weathers.

bluebird5

man just get some galvanized nails ling enought to go through the siding and into the stud. some 6's or 8's would be fine i don't know what a maze nail is or a bull's eys and don't care any you shouldn't either. GALVANIZED AT LEAST 1.5 INCHES thats all that matters

mem

I'm sure galvanized nails would hold the siding nicely, as longs as you don't mind the black streaks running down the boards from every nail hole in a few years. Aluminum nails would work nearly as well as stainless, and would be less expensive too.

mrgins

Yeah, that should last long enough til the customer's check clears, right?

fungku

Listen to Tom you should. The siding master he is.


I think HDG would do you well for quite a while, but other types of galvanizing is not recommended. Still your best choice is always stainless.

from Western Red Cedar Lumber Association:

Stainless steel nails are the best choice, especially if the siding is to be finished with transparent or semitransparent stain. Use No. 304 stainless for general siding applications and No. 316 for seacoast exposures.

Hot-dipped galvanized as per ASTM A 153, aluminum and stainless steel fasteners are all corrosion-resistant and all can be used to fasten Western Red Cedar. Other types of fasteners (including electroplated and mechanically galvanized) are not recommended. They can rust and disintegrate and react adversely with the natural preservative present in cedar resulting in stains and streaks.

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BigJim

Also notice the nails do not go through the top of the next board down. The wood will expand and contract and if nailed at top and bottom the board can split. The illustration posted by fungku is the correct way to nail the siding.

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Jim

amakarevic

what should i use as furring strip ? can i buy it under such name at HD/lowes or do i need to makeshift one ?

thanks