Portable table saw

helpless handyman

Hi, I am in need of a new table saw, don't want a big monster. I was looking into Dewalt DW745 and Dewalt DW744. I really like the fence on the Dewalt DW744. Does anyone have one or has used one? Thanks! All inputs are welcomed.

troubleseeker

Yes, the fence is super in my opinion. I have seen some complaints that it takes too much time to adjust it when making large moves, but I will take it's accuracy over any minor inconviences. You do have to keep the rails and the gears clean for it to operate easily, but I just hit them with an air nozzle, and spray with a dry lube. I have both models, but the big saw (24" cut) did not get used as job site saw very often because it's weight was not convenient to carry around. The 16" model is very portable and the 16" cut handles most situations. Even on the portable saws that have 24" rip, it is not very practical to handle big sheets on the small size tables. The blade that comes with the saw is pretty sad, so expect to buy a better blade.

helpless handyman

Thanks Troubleseeker, just ordered one. Any good blades you recommend? Thanks again, it won't see jobsites, it will just see my basement workshop, lol...

troubleseeker

You may want to use a better blade (more $) than I typically use. I stick to the $35 to $40 range because often it will get ruined by a stray nail or hidden screw. But in this range I like the Freud and the Ridgid. Just installed one of the "new" Porter Cable blades with mixed styles of teeth on the same blank, and it seems to be pretty good. It feels pretty rough when feeding the stock, in that you can really feel the teeth hitting the wood, but the cut comes out pretty smooth for a mid price blade. Since you probably are not going to damage the blade as such, stepping up to a $60 to $75 blade will give a smoother cut. I don't think there is any purpose to spending more than this on any of the premium blades (Forrest, etc) because these small saws just are not built with the tolerences or weight mass of a cabinet saw which can allow these premium blades to really perform.

AtlanticWBConst.

All very, very true points... (Don't try to cut stock/lumber that just can't be done on a portable saw) When we get heavy, dense stock...we take it to the shop....Don't blame that lil portable saw...if it can't do it...(basically 3/4" thickness max.)

...and as stated in an earlier post on this topic by Troubleseeker: A key factor is the Fence - How it operates on the table, how it 'locks', it's 'repeat-accuracy'...etc...

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helpless handyman

Thanks Troubleseeker and Atlantic W Construction for such Great advice given on this. It arrived yesterday, and will be put to use this weekend!

helpless handyman

Hey guys, whats a good blade for cutting hardwood floors on this table saw? I will be also ripping some 1 x 6 pine boards.Dewalt? How many tooth on the blade? Thanks I don't think I need a $100 blade, lol

Zero Punch

DeWalt or Oldam 60tooth thin kerf they're less than $40

AtlanticWBConst.

Agreed with the last post = 60 tooth.

BTW- Did you know that you can get saw blades re-sharpened for less than half of their orignal cost? Just about any knife sharpener usually does them. Millwork companies re-sharpen their blades.
You can re-sharpen a blade up to 10 times. Missing carbide teeth can also be replaced.

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(We re-sharpen our 10" and 12" blades for table saws and compound saws)

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rb_in_va

I have heard that is true of most blades that come with saws.

lionattack5

buy a better saw!!

rb_in_va

Not everyone needs a Unisaw.