porch roof - Page 3 - DIY Chatroom

CookeCarpentry · 10-19-2009, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildie

I notice that you have shown a 2X4 plate on top of the laminated beam.

I recently finished a similar project like this. My beam was laminated using 3-2X10's. I didn't use the 2X4 plate for mine.
I fastened the rafters to the beam directly using 'Hurricane Clips'.
Was this a mistake on my part?

You would have had to use something wider than a 2x4, msot likely a 2x6 ripped down (unless you had 1/2" packing between each 2x10).

Anyways, standard practice would dictate some type of top plate over a beam/header. If you toe-nailed the rafters to the beam and used hurricane clips - you will be fine. Yes, a mistake, but nothing that would compromise the integrity of the structure.

Wildie · 10-19-2009, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CookeCarpentry

You would have had to use something wider than a 2x4, msot likely a 2x6 ripped down (unless you had 1/2" packing between each 2x10).

Anyways, standard practice would dictate some type of top plate over a beam/header. If you toe-nailed the rafters to the beam and used hurricane clips - you will be fine. Yes, a mistake, but nothing that would compromise the integrity of the structure.

Thanks for the reply! The job was passed by the inspector. His concern seemed to be more to do with 'lift'. No comment was made about the plate!
In this case, what purpose does the plate perform?

( my beam has 1/2" plywood between the 3 2X10's to conform to the 6X6 posts.)

Kurt1968 · 10-20-2009, 08:50 AM

I think my whole problem is I'm reading the speed square wrong. To cut the angle that goes to the ledger. Do I use common or the hip valley.

richardballast · 10-20-2009, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt1968

Thanks again for all your help. I will post pictures when i get the rafters up there.

Thanks. I'm anxiously awaiting these since I'm considering a similar project (but my porch is only on one side).

Joe Carola · 10-20-2009, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt1968

I think my whole problem is I'm reading the speed square wrong. To cut the angle that goes to the ledger. Do I use common or the hip valley.

A 4-5/8:12 pitch is 21.07749° or call it 21°. Since your not using a framing square and using a speedsquare you will pivot the speedsquare until it hits 21°. You will use that for the plumbcut at the ledger, HAP cut and plumbcut for the facsia.

The Hip plumbcut marks will be 15.24°.

It's confusing using the speedsquare for this because the pitch is 4-5/8:12 and not a 4/12. If it was a 4/12, you would pivot the square until it hits the 4 where the "Common" numbers are and pivot the square until it hits the 4 where the "Hip-Val" numbers are.

Kurt1968 · 10-20-2009, 08:03 PM

Thanks again Joe.

Kurt1968 · 10-28-2009, 06:46 AM

Hey Joe cut some rafters the other day you were right about the pitch and everything. They are not perfect. But I think the combonation of the house and my beams are the problem. Once the soffit and fascia are up you will never know. Thanks again for your help.

Joe Carola · 10-28-2009, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt1968

Hey Joe cut some rafters the other day you were right about the pitch and everything. They are not perfect. But I think the combonation of the house and my beams are the problem. Once the soffit and fascia are up you will never know. Thanks again for your help.

I'm glad it worked out for you. Alot of times on an existing house you run into things not being straight/. parallel or level and that will throw the common rafter length off. Some houses every rafter has to be cut a little different because you have to set the ledger level and the house can be bowed in or out and in order to keep and nice level roof line with the windows and siding you have to cut every rafter different.

Take some pictures if you get a chance. Did you cut the hip yet?

Kurt1968 · 10-28-2009, 02:33 PM

No I haven't cut the hip yet. I'm gonna work on it saturday.

What have I done · 10-28-2009, 03:29 PM

Thanks for running all the numbers for me. Im gonna be doing this same project in the spring.

Make sure you post pictures!

Joe Carola · 10-28-2009, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt1968

No I haven't cut the hip yet. I'm gonna work on it saturday.

What is the HAP cut height on the common rafter? What size hip are you using, 2x8?

Kurt1968 · 10-28-2009, 04:08 PM

I was going to use a 2x6. Thats what im using for rafters. I think the HAP is 4 1/2 like you said .

Joe Carola · 10-28-2009, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt1968

I was going to use a 2x6. Thats what im using for rafters. I think the HAP is 4 1/2 like you said .

Kurt,

Since your using 2x6 commons you have to use the next size bigger for the hip structurally. Uae a 2x8.

When you mark the length of your hip at the outside corner of the building and draw you plumbcut, you have to come in half the thickness of the hip and make another plumcut mark and mark the HAP cut from that mark and then scribe the level seatcut.

This will make the top of the hip plane in at the plateline the same HAP cut height as the common HAP cut because the hip travels at 45° from the corner and if you mark the HAP cut at the outside corner it won't be the same height at the plateline causing the fascia to rise up at the corner.

Here's a drawing I did years ago showing you the plan view of the outside corner and how the hip travels at 45° and has a run (half thickness of hip) and rise. It will show you how to mark the HAP cut.

GBR in WA · 10-28-2009, 05:34 PM

A very good book, second page: http://books.google.com/books?id=Z8f...rafter&f=false
Be safe, Gary

Kurt1968 · 11-01-2009, 10:27 PM

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Here are the pictures of my porch. One is before and almost done. Thanks again Joe. Now I just have to tie it into the other little roof on the left. Supervisors in the window in first picture.