DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (
-   Carpentry (
-   -   Porch Repair Project (pics) and questions (

vendejp 09-26-2007 10:32 AM

Porch Repair Project (pics) and questions
Click here for pics

In about 2 weeks Im taking off 3 days work (and tack on 2 day with the weekend) to repair our porch. I have posted a question or two about this before, but I took a bunch of pictures (link above) that might help clarify.

My plan is to:
-Replace railings and balusters
-Replace steps
-Replace ceiling
-Sand floor where needed
-Remove all crown and dentil, and other moldings as necessary.
-Sand down all surfaces for paint prep
-Rebuild/repair box gutters. They dont slope properly now.

After re-doing the gutters, ill have someone come out and put in the copper/tin.

At the end, Ill have someone come out and prime and paint all. I'm not going to do the painting myself because of how high some of the the painting at the top of the house will be.

So.... with that said. My questions are:
For exterior woodwork like this that will be painted, I assume I should use a hardwood like poplar everywhere? If not, what material? I know there are synthetic external materials for outdoor work, but Im sticking with all wood.

For box gutter repair, I figured it should just be pine.

What material for the ceiling? Right now it appears to be beaded 1x4 flooring material. I suggested 1x4 beaded pine flooring before and someone said that wouldnt look right... here (click) they say "beadboard" but it looks like 1x4. Im guessing ill just try to find a thinner beadboard to work with.

Any other suggestions or observations?

As you can see here: image the bottom rail of the railings seem to be a handrail or something... not sure how ill replicate that.

For the sanding, i figured id use a 3" belt sander and an orbital sander to go over everything.

Click here for pics

Thanks for any advice

vendejp 09-27-2007 12:10 PM

I just went to a local lumberyard and the guy suggested just using pine throughout for the replacement and ensuring its primed and painted well. So, Im leaning towards this on all the moldings. Pine is definitely cheaper, and from what I gather, if its painted properly it will last a long time, though obviously its not a hardwood.

They had 1/2" bead board (fir i think) that i was thinking i could use for the ceiling, then polyurethane it rather than paint it, which I think would look sharp.

The balusters and railing I would prefer not to be pine. I guess poplar?

Any thoughts?

jiggyjack 09-27-2007 04:55 PM

IMHO you are ass backwards, painting yourself and letting other do the repair is how you save money.

That being said; use Pine on everything and prime it before you install it. The bootom rail is actually standard at HD where I live.

Good luck.

Jeekinz 09-28-2007 11:38 AM

I resurfaced my porch last year. The 4 pad orbital sanders are a waste of time. Use the drum sander and buy a couple belts. You can use a hand held belt sander on the edges.

For the ceiling, beadboard sheets will look awkward stained because you see the same grain running through the whole sheet. Use single boards or mill your own.

For the railing, you will be limited to the wood that the manufacturers use. Redwood is one of them. Prime all sides of the pine before installation.

Take lots of pics. Looks like a fun project.

vendejp 09-28-2007 12:27 PM

Thanks for the feedback. I like building, dont like painting. Ill take both your advice and do all the priming before hand.

For the beadbooard ceiling, i wasnt talking about beadboard sheets. I was talking about 1/2" x 4" beaded planks. I wasnt planning on staining though, just polyurethaning. Ill have to think about this. maybe an offwhite paint would look good.

As far as the sanding goes, I was talking about the sanding down of the non-replaced wood (that is in a condition that doesnt need replaced), where paint is chipping/peeling. I have a 3" x 21" dewalt belt sander I planned on using on the floor and other larger flat areas. Most of the porch flooring is pretty good, just the heavy wear area at the top of the steps (i.e. in the pic) is bad. What is in the picture is really the worst of it. I hadnt planned on sanding down the whole area, just where needed.

I was thinking of getting a 4-5" orbital, but you say they are no good Jeekinz? Even for smaller areas?

Given all this, Ill take any more feedback!


Jeekinz 09-28-2007 01:25 PM

I was reffering to floor sanders. I rented an orbital one from HD that barely put a dent in the old porch paint. (3 coats oil base on fir t/g decking) I returned it and brought home the drum sander which cleaned off the old paint very well. I used my hand held belt sander on the edges where the drum sander couldn't reach. Finished with a stain/sealer. Still a work in progress...can't decide on the posts yet. With the drum sander it took about 3 1/2 hours just to finish with a fine grit paper.

vendejp 10-02-2007 01:27 PM

thanks jeekinz, ill keep that in mind if i end up sanding down the whole thing... since im just repainting it, i plan on just spot sanding for a repaint.

Cole 10-03-2007 12:46 PM


Originally Posted by vendejp (Post 65895)
thanks jeekinz, ill keep that in mind if i end up sanding down the whole thing... since im just repainting it, i plan on just spot sanding for a repaint.

I hate to say it, but I think you are setting yourself up for failure with the paint.

If it was me, I would sand the entire porch and then paint it.

You are spending so much time and effort on everything else, why not take care of the floor properly.

vendejp 10-03-2007 12:56 PM

I didnt think sanding down the floors all around would be necessary. most of it is in good shape and I thought sanding down bad areas and a repaint would be good. I could be convinced that it makes sense though.

Cole 10-03-2007 01:01 PM

Its your call, but I am stickler for details and I know I couldn't leave it.

vendejp 10-05-2007 08:58 AM

so now im leaning towards renting a drum sander and sanding down the whole thing. jeekinz, what type of stain/sealer did you use?

I was thinking of just just using urethane


Jeekinz 10-05-2007 09:09 AM

Don't remember. I bought it from Lowes. The first coat came out a little blotchy being fir and all. The second coat got rid of the blotchy-ness but came out a little too dark for me....and it took a couple days to dry.

I recently threw out the extra rolls I had for the sander, I could have sent them to you. I used 2 coarse ans 2 medium. I didn't want it to be as smooth as an interior wood floor.

troubleseeker 10-05-2007 09:30 PM

No poplar for exterior. It is a great wood for interior paint grade mouldings, but no good for exterior work. It sounds like the preferred decay resistant woods are out of your budget, so go with the pine and attention to prep detail. I would use two coats of oil based primer, thinning the first one at least 50% for penetration. Backprime everything and be sure to judiciously seal all the end grain cuts. Finish paint with a quality 100% acrylic latex, no big box stuff. Just nailing all the raw wood together and getting a superficial prime/paint job will not last. Try to "casually" select the boards to get as little flat sawn stock as possible, some yards get edgy about allowing you to pick through the entire pile if the realize you are pulling all of the quarter and/or rift sawn materials out. Since most pine is sawn for quantity rather than quality, you may need a few trips to the yard, or even different yards for enough decent material. Sounds like a pretty extensive project, so I would not scrimp by "patching" the paint job on the porch deck. Take it down completely for best results.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:28 AM.

vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1