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Old 04-20-2013, 11:09 AM   #16
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Plane down wall studs


The plumbing is a complete mess, the walls maybe plaster and lathe. It is just hard too see what the heck is going on. Maybe easiest just to cut the corner off new counter
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:29 AM   #17
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Plane down wall studs


Yep shallower counter top and/or cabinets are in order.
make sure you can get a sink to fit first.
I'm guessing you do not want to spend a lot.
Could do your own tile, concrete or whatever top.
Even laminate is not hard, square edge or wood edge on front.

Maybe you could move over the door?
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:30 AM   #18
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Plane down wall studs


Wait - - - looks like the wall is bumped out there about 4" why is that? Vent stack run?
If you could get rid of the bump out you'd gain that room and have enough.

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Old 04-20-2013, 03:45 PM   #19
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Plane down wall studs


That door in the ceiling is a bathroom above. Not sure why the bump out. I do want too keep the cost low, but I plan on buying a new sink and faucet. I will make sure it fits the cabinets first.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:59 PM   #20
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Plane down wall studs


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That door in the ceiling is a bathroom above. Not sure why the bump out. I do want too keep the cost low, but I plan on buying a new sink and faucet. I will make sure it fits the cabinets first.
Can the door be moved? You can gain a 1/2 in by removing the drywall behind the countertops. The easiest looks like moving the door. If its just the countertop that had to go back you may be able to gain the 1/2 in and cut into the studs for more room but consider if it will affect the back of the sink. If that is the case you would have to cut into cabinet for the sink also. By then your tile would be past your backsplash. How much further does it have to go back? Otherwise jigsaw rotozip sawzall to plain it down.
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:10 PM   #21
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Plane down wall studs


cheapest is probably a new top, cut it down to fit, then some tile/arborite/ceramilite/whatever on the walls above the new top.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:00 PM   #22
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Plane down wall studs


I think you should bolt the door down to the bedrock and then move the whole house over six inches.j/k! wow! plane down the wall? Here's what I would do: That looks like a back or side entry door. Probably 36 to 32 inches wide. Why not remove the door and frame out the hinge side to the next door size down and then put in a new door. That should give you 2 inches since doors are in 36,34,32 and 30 inch sizes. To keep the door from hitting the cabinets install a doorstop on the floor just in front of the cabinet but away from in front of the sink so you dont kick it. I really have to see the whole picture to get a feel for what would work best.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:28 PM   #23
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Plane down wall studs


Out swing door?
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:40 PM   #24
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Plane down wall studs


I think oh’mike has the best solution (assuming there’s nothing outside that would prevent it).

Looking at your “ceiling door” makes me think the joist are bearing on the door wall. If so then moving the door would mean moving the header.

If an out swing would work it would be better all around. It would be nice to open the door and be able to set things on the counter verses opening the door to block it.

I see no reason why you couldn't do this with the door you already have.
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Old 04-23-2013, 08:20 PM   #25
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Plane down wall studs


both great ideas if it is a back door then to go from a 36 to a 34" would be OK, Personally I would not go from a 32 to a 30".
Also depends if you can make the brick mould look right on the outside, Nice wide brickmould, could look good.

Outswing also has advantages and diadvantages. Carrying in groceries and swinging a door towards yourself (the outside) is not nice.

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