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Old 05-13-2009, 06:19 AM   #46
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outside stairs (deck)


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Originally Posted by analogmusicman View Post
I kinda had an idea of what they might be. now the important question:
my frost line here in colo. springs is 25 in. down. so I dig a hole how deep? does the top of the concrete have to be below 25 in. ? this will be a pretty deep hole!

tnx,
Are you sure 25" is correct? On Long Island, NY it's 36"
Ron

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Old 05-13-2009, 03:04 PM   #47
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outside stairs (deck)


pulling the hangers off left holes in the joist they were attached to. I want THESE to be attached well. is it ok tp put screws in there and what size? (stainless?)

tnx,
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Old 05-13-2009, 08:30 PM   #48
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Are you sure 25" is correct? On Long Island, NY it's 36"
Ron
yeah, I've looked at several maps. the farther north you go,the deeper it gets,like northern Minn. is 5 feet!

tnx,
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Old 05-14-2009, 03:42 PM   #49
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HD and Lowes don't have the hanger I need,nobody does since whoever built the deck modified a standard joist hanger to do the job and a poor job it was. I'm seeing all sorts of things with this house which leads me to believe the building dept. must have been run by the previous owner's brother!

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Old 05-17-2009, 09:31 PM   #50
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my daughter and son-in-law dug the hole where the sonotubes will go. the hole is about 3.5 feet deep. should I put the sonotubes in, backfill with dirt,tamp the dirt and THEN fill the tubes with concrete?

tnx,
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:05 AM   #51
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my daughter and son-in-law dug the hole where the sonotubes will go. the hole is about 3.5 feet deep. should I put the sonotubes in, backfill with dirt,tamp the dirt and THEN fill the tubes with concrete?

tnx,
I would also put about 6" of small angular stone into the sonotube, after back filling, and tamp it down.
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:39 PM   #52
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well,the hole is dug,the materials have been delivered and it's time to put concrete in the sonotubes. Lowe's sold me 8 bags of "redi-mix",4 per tube. I was gonna just mix it a bag at a time and shovel it in. is there a reason why I should rent a mixer?

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Old 05-19-2009, 08:56 PM   #53
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I did one bag at a time in a wheel barrow
Made it easier to dump it in the tube
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Old 05-20-2009, 04:24 PM   #54
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about the 4x4 holder that sits on top of the concrete: is there a recommended height for it? the existing ones that hold up my deck have 2.5 in. of that 1 in. dia. round thingie showing.

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Old 05-21-2009, 05:48 AM   #55
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about the 4x4 holder that sits on top of the concrete: is there a recommended height for it? the existing ones that hold up my deck have 2.5 in. of that 1 in. dia. round thingie showing.

tnx,
Try looking at the manufacturers site for specific hardware instructions.
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:36 AM   #56
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I would also put about 6" of small angular stone into the sonotube, after back filling, and tamp it down.
Ron
Sorry but that's a waste of time and money.

Completely unnecessary for footings.

BTW, the stone is recommended for the bottom of the hole for fence posts.
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Old 05-27-2009, 04:06 PM   #57
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Sorry but that's a waste of time and money. Not according to the manufacturer.

Completely unnecessary for footings. Only if it's resting on undisturbed soil. Very hard to do, 3-5' down.

BTW, the stone is recommended for the bottom of the hole for fence posts. And anytime the concrete is not resting on undisturbed soil. To get a better (think more solid) base, not full of dirt clumps.


After you install a footing, the loads are transferred down to the earth. You want a good full contact. The tamped rock helps attain this when you are unable to clean the disturbed soil away to get a smooth base. Second choice would be tamped rock, last choice (the worst) is loose dirt still in the hole from the digging implement.

Sonotube's recommendations for footing use:

http://www.sonotube.com/products/tubebase_install.html See the whole idea, using it alone as a footing.

Be safe, G
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:41 PM   #58
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I thought 1M means ONE thousand

tnx,
As a carpenter, you are perfectly correct.

M= one thousand board feet. Always has. But this is how it is seen today (outside the lumber yard)

M [1] an informal abbreviation for million in expressions such as "$500M" for 500 million dollars or "Unemployment Reaches 4M" in a newspaper headline.

In binary contexts such as computer memory, M often represents 220 = 1 048 576

M [2] the Roman numeral 1000, sometimes used in symbols to indicate a thousand, as in Mcf, a traditional symbol for 1000 cubic feet.

Given the widespread use of M to mean one million, this older use of M to mean one thousand is very confusing and probably should be scrapped.
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:07 PM   #59
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Sorry but that's a waste of time and money. Not according to the manufacturer.

Completely unnecessary for footings. Only if it's resting on undisturbed soil. Very hard to do, 3-5' down.

BTW, the stone is recommended for the bottom of the hole for fence posts. And anytime the concrete is not resting on undisturbed soil. To get a better (think more solid) base, not full of dirt clumps.


After you install a footing, the loads are transferred down to the earth. You want a good full contact. The tamped rock helps attain this when you are unable to clean the disturbed soil away to get a smooth base. Second choice would be tamped rock, last choice (the worst) is loose dirt still in the hole from the digging implement.

Sonotube's recommendations for footing use:

http://www.sonotube.com/products/tubebase_install.html See the whole idea, using it alone as a footing.

Be safe, G
Please show me where in the Building Code that it states that the above method is required?

I have NEVER once had a building dept./inspector tell me to put clear stone at the bottom of a deck footing, EVER.

Until this happens, I won't be wasting any time/money on dumping clear stone at the bottom of my footings.

All of my decks are plenty safe, thank you very much.
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:12 PM   #60
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I've always used a 4x4 post to tamp my holes down
But if it seems muddy I also toss some rock in & tamp again
I hit ledge in most holes at this house

Sometimes common sense is a step above code

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