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JamesRW 02-10-2013 12:55 PM

Options for cased openings
 
I've been reading all the Q & A's under "cased openings", and would appreciate any ideas for my situation.

Remodeling an older (1965) home that has had some updates where several doorways have been left with finished sheetrock that is not standing up well.

I would like to finish them with jamb and casing, but without pulling off the sheetrock. However, I hesitate to give up and inch or more of the opening size. (Also,the jamb widths of the different openings vary from 5 1/2" to over 7", so I will need to customize them anyway.)

I'm wondering if there is some type of thinner wood (1/4") I could use on the jamb, where I could route the edge to still get a nice reveal with the casing.

Then I was thinking of using both adhesive and finish nails to attach it and prevent any warping.

Thanks for any advice.

joecaption 02-10-2013 01:18 PM

That would look like poop.
Why would you not want to remove the sheetrock?
You could go with back band moulding to give you a cased look.
http://www.appalachianlumber.net/M1.htm

TarheelTerp 02-10-2013 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesRW (Post 1114071)
Remodeling an older (1965) home that has had some updates where several doorways have been left with finished sheetrock that is not standing up well.

Single door width openings? eg: less than 36"
If so, then damage from passing through is understandable.

Quote:

I would like to finish them with jamb and casing...
I hesitate to give up and inch or more of the opening size.
I'm wondering if there is some type of thinner wood...
Cutting to the chase:
Your choices are enduring the occasional spackle & paint repair job;
or losing 1.5" of clearance to 3/4" stock on each side;
or removing the GWB and attaching that 3/4" stock onto the framing.

JamesRW 02-10-2013 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1114092)
That would look like poop.
Why would you not want to remove the sheetrock?
You could go with back band moulding to give you a cased look.
http://www.appalachianlumber.net/M1.htm

To further clarify, I will be using casing on all the doorway sides and tops - just wondering if a "facing" rather than a 3/4" thick jamb could work.

The corners all seem to have good structural integrity, except for chipped paint, etc.

joecaption 02-10-2013 03:18 PM

Those corner will have steel outside corners so there no way to nail the casing that close to the outside edge. 1/4 will leave you nothing to attach the casing to and will leave an exposed rough surface.
Over all it's just a very bad idea.

mae-ling 02-10-2013 09:06 PM

yep . carefully rip out the drywall and install 3/4" (or 5/8") jambs and casing. the jamb/casing will cover any ugliness left by a careful removal of the metal corner trim on the drywall.

joecaption 02-11-2013 08:40 AM

I just use a hammer and tap it along the outside edges and the joint compound just pops right off so you can find the nails or screws.
In less then 1/2 hour you can have it all off and ready for the new jambs.
Any box store will stock premade wooden jambs already cut to width with nice rounded edges.

cleveman 02-11-2013 09:44 PM

You could use 1/2" solid wood jambs if you want, and still get a 1/4" reveal.

I used to use 7/8" jamb material and have a 7/16" or so reveal. It looked real rich. Then I started using 3/4" oak plywood, so you can't have any reveal.


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