Options to attach wall frame to slab?
In one of the IRC years back that I remember, they said p.t. only IF the slab was not protected with a v.b. from the earth. Now it reads sill, sleeper protected from the slab. Then IRC said use a v.b. against the concrete wall, instead of the previously required p.t. wood. It doesn't say continuous v.b., only protect framing members. Now, could you just use strips of poly, 6m., or a sill sealer (approved v.b.)? Way cheaper than p.t. which will cup and twist after dry, another reason for sill sealer. Caulking won't fill in gaps later.
I agree with all of you, code doesn't require a sill sealer, YET. I feel in a few years it may, at least for the energy standpoint when all houses will be required to a blower door test, many are now.
What good is an ADA if the sill leaks air? 2 beads of caulking will work, but not for a thermal break.
Why heat the wall/plate (68*)to lose heat to the cold concrete slab (55*)? No thermal break.
Why install low density cavity insulation that is susceptible to air movement and not seal the plate? Bead of caulking.
Why not always use a sill sealer unless you know there is a v.b. under the slab. You will suck up any sub-terrain water/moisture through a p.t. plate. Few DIY'ers test for moisture on the slab and it's only good for that time of season and that very small area of the test. Caulking won't capillary break.
I feel many do not fire-stop over the top of the new wall to the joist spaces. A sill sealer would stop any air from there contributing to the fire. Caulking will work unless using p.t. cups and twists.
Now I'm repeating, time to stop.
Clothes taking longer to dry?
Clean the dryer screen in HOT water if using fabric softener sheets.
They leave a residue that impedes air-flow, costing you money.
Clean the ducting in the last six months? 17,000 dryer fires annually!