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Old 11-12-2009, 05:14 PM   #1
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Notched joist


Hello,
I'm in the process of remodeling a bathroom. After taking up the subfloor, saw this huge notch in one joist. it's 2x8 and there is about 2 1/2" of wood below the notch. Due to plumbing and HVAC obstructions to the right in the joist cavities, it would be difficult to sister up the joist with any significant lengths of 2x8 or 2x6, plus I'd still need a hole for the 2" drain line that's shown in the picture. I was wondering if a solution could be to sandwich the joist with approx 2" angle iron and through bolt them. I could do this above below the 2" drain pipe using a total of 4 angle pieces w/ bolts. Do you think this would be a suitable fix? If so, how long should the angle be?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
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Last edited by prghome; 11-12-2009 at 05:19 PM. Reason: revised picture
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Old 11-12-2009, 07:21 PM   #2
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Notched joist


That is bad. And it's carrying the ceiling with the joist hanger to the left.... With 2- 2x3's (old and new cut joists), I would be worried it couldn't support the toilet. Here are a few ideas: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021184090.pdf

http://books.google.com/books?id=1uY...lywood&f=false
http://arch.umd.edu/Tech/Structural_..._Guide_A11.pdf
Be safe, Gary

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Old 11-12-2009, 07:24 PM   #3
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Notched joist


Nasty place for a notch.

Can you lay your hands on 2 pieces of 1/8 inch or thicker steel--Say ,7" x 30"??

Notch for the pipe--add some 2x to fill the top of the notch and sandwich the bad joist in between the steel? through bolts with washers--Strong--Best you can hope for,I think.--MIKE--
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Old 11-12-2009, 08:47 PM   #4
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Thanks Gary & Mike.
Like the steel idea which would seem better than the multiple angle iron pieces. Should help in the tight quarters. I'll see what I can find. Any suggestions on bolt pattern/qty?
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Old 11-12-2009, 10:36 PM   #5
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8 total--4 on each side of the notch.You will have to figure the best pattern-you are on site -boss of the job! Sounds like you've got a solution.
Good luck-Have fun. Post a picture if it turns out nice.----MIKE--
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Old 11-13-2009, 01:31 AM   #6
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By the way--Steel up to 1/8 inch thick can be sawed with a skill saw using an old fine toothed blade
(all steel, plywood blade is ideal) start slow -sparks will fly--the friction actually melts the steel and gives you a clean cut.

Do this out side-away from flammables. They used to make a smooth blade(no teeth) for cutting steel-- I haven't seen one in many years.--MIKE--
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Old 11-13-2009, 06:48 AM   #7
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Thanks for all the help. I"ll let you know how I make out.
Pete
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Old 11-13-2009, 08:23 AM   #8
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A 5" angle grinder works alot better.
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Old 11-13-2009, 06:55 PM   #9
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True about the angle grinder-But most DIY types own a skill saw--not all own an angle grinder.

The method I described really does work well,I have cut a good bit of 1/8 inch stock that way.
I even cut up an old pick-up truck--Frame and all. I'll bet that would have eaten up a lot of grinder blades!!--MIKE--
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:05 AM   #10
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True.
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:17 AM   #11
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Real mens tools make lot of noise! Flames and explosions.

The local Paramedics actually gave me a new address sign about 10 years ago. I kind of had a bad year!!

As always --work safe--quit when you are tired--(or frustrated)-MIKE--
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Old 11-14-2009, 11:13 PM   #12
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Although the steel idea is valid, it should be noted that only a qualified engineer should be making recommendations for repair (as opposed to replacement) of this notch. Simply bolting steel to it seems logical but may not hold water in the real world, especially when the inspector on your project asks you for the engineering documentation to support the method of repair.

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