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NowItsShowtime 03-26-2009 11:05 AM

Non load bearing wall and inspection
Just wanted to make sure if the way I framed this wall will pass inspection. I know it may be different state to state, but wanted to make sure there are no big NO NO's.

It is a non load bearing wall in the kitchen. My house is very narrow and in order to save space here is how I did it.

Bottom plate is PT, top is regular. I cut the 2x4 in half with my table saw, essentially creating a 2x2 for the top and bottom plate. Fastened both to concrete and floor joist respectively. Wen't through the streetrock and into the floor joist for top plate since ceiling was already up.

The studs are 16in. OC, except instead of being the traditional way, they are upright with flat (4 inch part) facing you, if you are looking at the wall. Is this alright?

47_47 03-26-2009 01:54 PM

I don't know if this is code, but this will be a weak wall. How are you going to put electrical outlets in this wall?

NowItsShowtime 03-26-2009 01:59 PM

Im not sure if we are on the same page. Electrical outlets are the least of my concern what would pull this wall down.

I put anchor bolts in the bottom plate, and screws on top plate. I didn't want to get too in depth, but 3 out of the 9 studs will be nailed into the brick wall that touches the 2x4s.

47_47 03-26-2009 02:06 PM

My point, you do not have enough depth in the wall to mount a box.

NowItsShowtime 03-26-2009 02:11 PM

ah yes good point.

In regards to where the wall is put up, its actually 10 inches off the existing outside wall. The new wall I am putting up runs up against the supports for the chimeny, so in reality there is ample room for the electric boxes.

Some may say its stupid to lose the space, but its only a 5 foot run, and it really complicates everything to utilize that space.

47_47 03-26-2009 02:19 PM

Do the supports for the chimney run the entire length of this wall? Could you frame two conventional walls (on both sides) and use the 2x4 on the flat over the chimney supports? How about built in shelving to reclaim some space?

Added: I'd call and ask your inspector.

NowItsShowtime 03-26-2009 02:24 PM

Chimeny support does not go the whole length of the wall, but the one side has the plumbing and waste pipes so that is out. THere is only the 4-5 ft section on the other side of the support, and although the built in shelving is a good idea, I will actually have cabinets on this wall (for the kitchen), which is why I thought if I have to set the wall back 10 inches, then I need a customer countertop as well as I have to rework the upper cabinets to transition back there.

This is not my final house, just a starter home/rental so all that work is not necessary

Gary in WA 03-26-2009 03:33 PM

That will be one very weak wall. I wouldn't be surprised when you shut the cabinet door--- you crack your mudded joint or pop some nail heads, from the flex, or the whole shebang comes off in your hand.
Any way to attach the studs to anything else? 1-3/4" studs barely hold themselves up - 2x2's actually are stronger - any knots anywhere? I've done this for a closet - 2' wall, but never a kitchen cabinet wall. Be safe, GBAR

NowItsShowtime 03-26-2009 03:40 PM

they are still 2x4s for the upright studs on the wall, just the bottom and top plates arent.

I thought about it, but I think I secured it well, and especially when also trying them into the chimeny support wall.

The old cabinets were just hung on furring strips attached to the existing outside brick wall and chimeny supports, which I woudl think is even weaker.

Forgot to mention I was going to tie in 2x4s horizontally between the upright studs.

My main question is really, will this pass inspection?

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