newbie to crownmolding, don't want to get ripped off

mariein lz

Hi all

I'm having a bedroom painted and wanted to add crownmolding while I'm at it. The carpenter I found came out and measured 64 linear feet of wall. He does a three piece crown, 3.5" or so inches for the crown plus the top and bottom bit of trim. He is going to do mitred corners and will prime it white. He estimates this at $700 for the job. Around $11 per linear foot.

I am getting one more quote because I don't want to get ripped off. The carpenter comes on recommendation from the painter (of course) but no one I know has done trim work to ask, so I'm getting another quote from the yellow pages.

I'm in NW Chicago if that helps.

Termite

This is a DIY site, and therefore questions pertaining to the rates charged by contractors are strongly discouraged.

We're here to help you if you choose to install the crown yourself.

tinner666

Why would he miter the corners? They're supposed to be coped.
Does he even know how to set the bevel cut on his saw to use scarf joints where necessary?

These are the questions you need answered.

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Frank

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tinner666

Does he know the difference between 45's and bevels? If he said he cuts 45's, I think I'd look elsewhere.

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Frank

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Jay123

Probably using mdf tinner, I know a lot of pros don't cope mdf (I do) due to the tendency it has to crumble at the cope if you've coped it back too sharply.

mariein lz

I'm sorry. I didn't realize asking this type of question was a faux pas. My mistake.

I do want to clarify I was wrong about the corners. Mitered were my words, not his. He called and I asked him and they are coped corners.

The wood isn't MDF. I saw the sample he brought so we could fit the right size. It looks like your standard wood, not mdf. Paint grade off course.

I did get a second quote from someone else. The same price to within $10. So I'm going with the first guy since he came out and the other did it over the phone.

Thanks for the feedback.

Termite

If you can, watch how he copes the corners. It is a neat trick and knowing how to do it could save you some big money on future projects.

Scuba_Dave

I've always wondered why to cope the corners VS mitre?

I can mitre, but I can't "cope"

Won't mitres work ?

Jay123

Coping keeps pressure on the joint and allows for nicer joints in wall/ceilings that aren't exactly 90 degrees....which you won't find many that are...

Jay123

Coping allows for more flexibility with moving the crown up and down the wall-ceiling intersection while keeping the joint tight...a 45 degree miter really needs wall/ceilings that are totally square...unless you plan to use a LOT of caulk in the corners....

Jay123

We just finished this coffered ceiling which we used copes on the long runs and miters inside the coffers...sometimes ya just gotta figure where and when to use what...are coffers were pretty much dead square to glued miters ended up working very well.

Here's the whole process of the coffered ceiling:

http://picasaweb.google.com/jjfwoodw...eat=directlink

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II Weeks

Looks good Jay123, dead square helps. did you cope with a saw or a grinder?

Jay123

Thanks Weeks. I always cope with a just a coping saw. I bought a collins coping foot ( http://www.collinstool.com/collins_coping_foot.htm ) for my jigsaw a few years ago, but I've never used it..

I've read where it works really well if you use it correctly and get a some practice in. I can cope the standard pine crown in about 30 seconds with a nice clean cut, so I've just stayed with the coping saw.

J

mrpurty

great job on the ceiling Jay123. staining or painting the beams?

Jay123

Thanks, it was painted...our clients chose to go with the same color on the beams as the new color on the walls, but with the beams being a semi-gloss and the walls a very low sheen. Inside the coffers was painted a couple of shades darker than the walls.

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