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Old 10-19-2009, 07:38 PM   #16
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Cooke, are you sure about that? They look like shear braces.
A shear brace barely spanning 2 stud bays? Improperly installed, at that, as they have a cripple blocking it off the plate.

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Old 10-19-2009, 07:58 PM   #17
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Isn't that the way you would build it? The cripple is nailed to the corner. If that were not there, with a shear load, it would just push the top plate off, no?
In any case it's probably fine but I would look into the code for shear walls in your area because you are removing a fair amount of shear wall with the windows so close to the edge.
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Old 10-19-2009, 08:01 PM   #18
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Isn't that the way you would build it? The cripple is nailed to the corner. If that were not there, with a shear load, it would just push the top plate off, no?
In any case it's probably fine but I would look into the code for shear walls in your area because you are removing a fair amount of shear wall with the windows so close to the edge.
It would push the top plate off either way. Much better ways to build shear walls than a 2x6 let into a 2x4 stud. Unless he is located right on the coast, or in a constant high wind area, it's of no concern.
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Old 10-19-2009, 08:55 PM   #19
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now i'm starting to think this is a corner brace and not just a temp brace they hacked up when they built the house.


check out this diagram. page 118 on this site

http://books.google.com/books?id=5ZN...20wall&f=false
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Old 10-19-2009, 08:58 PM   #20
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not surprised if this wasnt done correctly. there was quite a biulding surge in my area in the 80s and lots of issues with the inspection dept....if it wasnt done right in the first place, maybe taking it our entirely, replacing the entire stud with a new one, and going from there may be ok....were not on the coast or in a high wind area...
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Old 10-19-2009, 10:38 PM   #21
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The diagonal brace is not installed properly, the angle is too steep. It is not needed with OSB on the wall. Minimum code is OSB on the corners and every 25' apart. You may have trouble as mentioned if you are in a seismic area or high wind. You will be losing all the corner shear flow on both corners with no sheathing (window) between on the wall. (fireplace interrupting) It depends on where the bedroom is located on the end (gable) wall. If close to the end, you may be allowed a shear braced panel (OSB) within 6' of the corner, rather than at the corner. This will still transmit corner loads down to the ground from earthquakes and winds. Are you certain that you would not be happy with a 24" wide window, no header required? You may need to check with your local Building Department with this, so it doesn't bite you when selling or Homeowner Insurance claim. Normally, when removing a shear panel, the engineer makes up for it by adding more on the same wall. This should be approved by both parties.
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Old 10-20-2009, 01:20 PM   #22
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looks like to much of a pita to install full windows here so i think im just going to go with the original plan of octagon windows above the sides of the mantle....no dealing with shear calculations, moving electrical etc.
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:33 AM   #23
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so i ripped out the rest of the drywall from the openings and got a good look at the studs etc. I can easily install the 2 24inch octagon windows on either side of the fireplace, and I wont need to touch the diagonal brace. However, i will need to move one of the studs to the left just a bit and notch it to fit over the "let in" (think thats what it is called). i havent dealt with my local inspectors dept yet so I'm not sure how they work. If I brought a drawing down to the inspectors office and told them what I was trying to do, would they be able to look at it and say yes or no (yes = compliant with local/state code)....or do they usually leave you hanging, point you to the code, and then wait for the actual inspection.

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