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Old 08-26-2005, 04:19 PM   #1
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New Wall - Help!

I am about to take on building an internal partition stud wall, and have a got a couple of questions...

(There used to be a wall there (made out of bricks), but it was knocked down to make a through-lounge, so I am building it again, but out of wood and plasterboard)

1. The ceiling bit is now a steel joist, so how do I fix the top plate to it? Obviously I can't nail or screw into steel, so should I use No-More-Nails adhesive?

2. Is there anything wrong with using 2x2 plates and studs? thus giving me a cavity/gap in the wall for soundproofing. Or will this make the wall too week? Should I use 4x2 instead and use 2 layers of plasterboard?




Last edited by Adamski; 08-26-2005 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 08-26-2005, 07:02 PM   #2
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Why can't you screw to the joist?

I would go with 2x4 construction on the wall. For sound proofing add some insulation.


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Old 09-01-2005, 11:40 PM   #3
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I would recommend that you use contsruction adhesive AND put at least 4 screws into the steel joist (assuming you're laying it parrallel with the joist and the top plate will be no longer than 16') to snug it up while the adhesive sets.

If you are doing this alone, get some props to hold the top plate in place and then position it just where it needs to be. Snug the props up good so that it won't move and then drill with a nice steel drill bit. Assuming again that this is an I-Beam, make sure that you offset the top plate so that you are going to be drilling into a thinner portion. Smear plenty of adhesive all along the top plate and position it back into place, and screw. (If you want, you can do this all in one step, smear the adhesive, prop it up, drill, screw; but if something goes wrong, you have a very messy top plate to handle)

As far as sound proofing goes; if this is a big concern, insulate the wall. If it's a REAL big concern, use a 2x6 for your top plate and bottom plate. Then use 2x4's in a staggered configuration (like your building two separate walls almost) and weave insulation in between them. Then install insulation in the normal fashion. This staggered pattern prevents sound vibrations from being physically transferred from one wall to the next, since they are only touching at the plates. If you happened to be sectioning the room off so that somebody could play drums in there, then cover the framing with rubber roofing material prior to drywall. Just staple it on. This will prevent MANY dB's from coming through.

Ken Walker
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Old 09-02-2005, 12:56 AM   #4
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Adamski, I would throughbolt to the I-beam near the stud placement. Use 1/4-5/16" bolts unless you are using Whitworth, then use 7/16 or 1/2" bolts. The adhesive won't hurt anything. 2X2 will not yield a very substantial wall, here we would call it a panel. I would use 2X4 at minimum.

Sound proofing is a different subject. What are you trying to accomplish?

BTW, I graduated from St. Andrews and Paisley, TTFN.
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Old 09-02-2005, 10:23 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Adamski
... thus giving me a cavity/gap in the wall for soundproofing.
Mmmm...yeah that's not soundproofing
If sound transference is a concern, now is the time to take care of it as it will cost much, much, more to do it later
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