Need nailing rules for attaching various mouldings
We've decided to remove the existing clamshell mouldings in our 1973 two story colonial and replace them with mouldings with more architectural interest.
I've acquired the necessary tools (compressor, 15 and 16 ga nailers, dbl bevel compound sliding miter saw, 10" table saw and various hand tools) to do the job.
What I need are the general rules for selecting nail sizes/lengths to attach the new mouldings to the various substrates.
Any and all help appreciated.
Locate the studs, and nail the moulding to the studs. I'd use 16ga, 2" for most stuff. Can use shorter if you're doing built up moulding, and the subsequent layers don't need to go through drywall into framing, because they're being nailed to existing moulding.
I agree with Nate to locate the studs, nails do not hold in just drywall. I use 15 gauge (my gun size) and 2" nails when going through drywall. I also use 1¼" 18 gauge brads when going into wood casings. I glue and brad my door and window casing mitered corners.
I also prefinish my moulding, install it, then fill nail holes. Experiment with some short scraps of your molding for nail placement. Some areas are easier to hide or fill the nail holes.
I just have a little time here, so:
#1 Tip: Have the right tools for the job.
Use stainable wood glue.
Use an 18g brad nailer for thinner, narrow trimwork to avoid splitting the wood.
When attaching small sections together and need them to hold, consider a dab from a hot glue gun - dries immediately...
Most cuts can be made/determined by simply holding the section of trim up to an area and marking it with a pencil (rather than measuring)...
Heres a link: http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/finishcarp/index.htm
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