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-   -   Need help making a 'back band' around window/door casing. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/need-help-making-back-band-around-window-door-casing-76032/)

RickDel 07-12-2010 11:01 PM

Need help making a 'back band' around window/door casing.
 
Hello, Iím building up my window and door casings so they extend beyond the chair rail. Iím thinking of adding/making a Ďback bandí similar to these:
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...Backband_2.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...h-Casing-1.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ngbackband.jpg

Iím not sure, but the painted casing doesn't appear to overlap like most other back band moldings Iím seeing online.

Iím not very experienced so can you guys offer some advice on making this? Hereís my materials and thier dimensions:

My casing:
Width Ė 3.25
Thickness - 0.6875
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...81258133lg.jpg

My Bead board:
Georgia Pacific Ply Bead Panels
1.6" on-center beaded patterns
4' x 8' panels are shiplapped on the 8' edges to virtually hide seams
Available in 11/32" thickness (0.34375)
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3.../plybead16.jpg

My Chair Rail Moulding:
Thickness - 0.688
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...23108845lg.jpg

Iím thinking of making a simple back band 1Ē wide with a .25 inch overlapping the casing (.75 between the casing and the bead board). The last portion of the casing profile is .5 wide, so I intend to overlap it .25 and leave a .25 reveal.

If possible, Iím trying to keep the profile no more then 1Ē wide because I only have 1.75 from my window casing to the edge of the stool, so adding .75 from the casing to the bead board will leave a 1 inch reveal on the ends, which if I read correctly is the proper amount of reveal.

Hereís a great link that shows several back band profiles, but since Iím trying to keep it within 1Ē Iíve only selected a couple simple profiles I think could work. I'm thinking I want the back band to be the width of the chair rail and bead board, plus a .16 reveal, which totals approx 1 1/16Ē. These profiles are both wider than 1" so if possible I'll have to modify them a little (or extend it out a little farther and cut into my 1" window stool reveal).

Hereís the Back Band Profiles I think could work:
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...el73/RM404.gif
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...kDel73/404.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...el73/RM413.gif
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...kDel73/413.jpg


Questions:

1. Is adding a 1Ē wide back band wide enough for the .5 thickness increase Iím trying to accomplish, of should it be wider? (the casing will total 4Ē inches wide after adding the back band but the thickness/depth will increase a half inch in last inch of the casingÖ.. is this change in depth too drastic?)
2. I really need stock 1Ē wide x 1Ē thick to make the profile, but I canít find anything other then 1x (.75 thick) at Lowes, so can I glue two pieces of 1x together and rip it down? Iím thinking I can glue it together and then sand the outer edge to blend the seam.

Please feel free to critique my plans and offer alternate solutions. ANY details on how to make a professional looking back band that blends smoothly and gives the depth I need to stay proud of the chair rail is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!

BigJim 07-13-2010 12:58 AM

Looks like you have it under control. The only thing I can offer which you may already be aware of is this. On the profile RM-404 where it states 11/16" you will want to make that 1/16 less than the thickness of your door mold or you will have a gap between the back band and trim. I would run an ogee profile, run it through a tablesaw and there you go.

Jim

RickDel 07-13-2010 06:25 AM

Great advice!

So if the molding is 1/16th less thick, than it would sit against the casing at a slight angle, correct? Do you think I should backcut this at an angle (like maybe 2įs or something)?

Thank You!

BigJim 07-15-2010 03:13 PM

Rick, sorry I haven't gotten back sooner. The way I have cut the back band is lay a scrap piece of the door mold on the miter saw with the back band in place on the scrap as it will be nailed on once installed. That way the back cut will be correct. I hope I am explaining that right.

Jim


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