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Old 07-19-2013, 09:37 PM   #16
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Need help with installing T&G Plywood subfloor


I'll post pictures soon. We already made a mistake, but nothing we can't fix. So very tired of this project, and my husband and I are so very tired also. The next layer will be 1/4 inch plywood to go on top and perpendicular to the subfloor because we need to replace the one we took out. It was 15 foot and true inch T&G boards. That is another story!! Another question--After the subfloor is completed, can we use underlayment ring-shank nails to fasten the 1/4" to the subfloor? Over this plywood, we will staple the real underlayment for our laminate no-glue floor planks.

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Old 07-20-2013, 08:58 AM   #17
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I'll post pictures soon. We already made a mistake, but nothing we can't fix. So very tired of this project, and my husband and I are so very tired also. The next layer will be 1/4 inch plywood to go on top and perpendicular to the subfloor because we need to replace the one we took out. It was 15 foot and true inch T&G boards. That is another story!! Another question--After the subfloor is completed, can we use underlayment ring-shank nails to fasten the 1/4" to the subfloor? Over this plywood, we will staple the real underlayment for our laminate no-glue floor planks.

it seems you could use half inch BC plywood as one layer over top the sub floor instead of two layers of quarter inch?? don't break the butt (4')seams at the same spot as the sub floor underneath and also don't break along the 8' seams either. an off set of 16" or 24" is fine with the top layer of ply.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:21 PM   #18
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Thanks Hand drive for input. After doing the math again and using your idea, we need one exactly 11/16 BC underlayment to replace the two 3/8 that we have now and it will also save us from sanding under the double doors to be flush with the other room (my husband is calling stores right now to see if there is such a thing) The plywood we bought to go next (after 11/16 subfloor is done) IS 3/8" (NOT 1/4") that I stated earlier. I went to garage and measured again. And, we already bought the other 3/8" BC underlayment last year, and it warped terribly--so we can't take that back. But if we could find a 11/16 BC underlayment that would save us a lot of work!! Thanks for the idea.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:28 PM   #19
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Need help with installing T&G Plywood subfloor


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Originally Posted by WheelerGirl
Thanks Hand drive for input. After doing the math again and using your idea, we need one exactly 11/16 BC underlayment to replace the two 3/8 that we have now and it will also save us from sanding under the double doors to be flush with the other room (my husband is calling stores right now to see if there is such a thing) The plywood we bought to go next (after 11/16 subfloor is done) IS 3/8" (NOT 1/4") that I stated earlier. I went to garage and measured again. And, we already bought the other 3/8" BC underlayment last year, and it warped terribly--so we can't take that back. But if we could find a 11/16 BC underlayment that would save us a lot of work!! Thanks for the idea.
I could be wrong, but I believe 5/8" is the closest you're going to get to 11/16".

Edit: Sorry, wasn't thinking. 23/32" is equal to 11/16" and should be readily available. Well, within 1/32"... that should be close enough.

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Old 07-20-2013, 05:41 PM   #20
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Just found out that there is a 23/32 BC underlayment. That would only be 1/32 over what we need--heck a lot better than the 1/16 difference!! We will sand where needed! I understand about staggering the seams. WE will watch out for and plan to cut to miss the subfloor seams--thanks for the reminder.

Oh, NO, I just thought of something else--our pneumatic stapler takes only one size staples. What size would I need for this 23/32? Another problem is that our air hose won't reach these two rooms--and with the lenght of hose we have now, we had some problems with the other rooms we did 4 years ago, with the pressure, hee-hee, every time the lights would flicker, we knew to stop and let the pressure build before proceeding!
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:44 PM   #21
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that's correct {Pittsville}5/8 will be 11/16 exactly or a really small 5/8. I've always used felt paper between the sheets of plywood or the fancier stuff the floor places sell,it keeps squeaks at bay. Also,plan to use screws for the top piece of ply that penetrate the floor framing. It helps to layout felt paper with a t-50 stapler after identifying the floor joist framing and taking note with measurements off the wall(pick a wall). you can pop chalk lines across the felt laid on the floor to show where the joists are located and the seams for the sub floor plywood as well so the plywood pieces do not break a top of one another.

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Old 07-20-2013, 06:51 PM   #22
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we need one exactly 11/16 BC
3/8 plywood is actually 11/32" so two layers of 3/8" would be 11/16".
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:04 PM   #23
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Before I show you any pics of this new project (because it might not
look very pretty), here I am a couple years ago remodeling our little back
porch.  Before and After pics. The pie is homemade organic Rhubarb from
my garden!
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:09 PM   #24
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Nice job WheelerGirl
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:51 PM   #25
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Here are a few pics Before & After: In this room, we took out the old, stinky carpet, padding, old linoleum, 1953 dated newspaper (underneath was white mold on all layers), top of floor boards were white and underneath was black mold--yikes!! We cleaned all the joists (underneath also) with vinegar & soap, then on dry joists applied non-toxic concrobium mold control (2 coats between drying), after cleaning all debris from crawl space (we found three large pieces of rotting, stinky wood), we sprayed all the dirt also with concrobium--then applied 12ml vapor barrier (encapsulated this one room crawlspace--that was a challenge I figured out by myself). Big rocks in our way, and (we took out at least 40 smaller bowling ball size rocks. WE cleaned all the tops of rocks so polyurethane would stick to them--see why we are tired! That is not including all the outside work we are doing to prevent most of the water going in the crawl space again. (there weren't any standing pools of water) Gutters, grading outside this room only, dug a ditch 1 & 1/2 feet by 2 feet to put in clean sub dirt) cleaning exterior blocks & rocks with air hose & acid--then waterproofing 2 coats, etc. (just started this job) Doing all this during the heat wave. This might be overkill--but all that mold scared me. See why we are very, very tired (60 & 70 yrs. old). I guess I sound like I need some pity! Thanks for all the help we are getting here! You all are the greatest
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Old 07-21-2013, 03:06 PM   #26
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More pics to add to the above summary of our 1920 "This OLD House" project!
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:36 PM   #27
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Ahhhhh.. Looks like fun.... you guys get right after it
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:06 PM   #28
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it seems you could use half inch BC plywood as one layer over top the sub floor instead of two layers of quarter inch?? don't break the butt (4')seams at the same spot as the sub floor underneath and also don't break along the 8' seams either. an off set of 16" or 24" is fine with the top layer of ply.
Hand Drive--we took back the set of original (6) pieces of plywood and bought 6 thicker ones, so we wouldn't have to apply 3 layers--saving us a lot of work--thanks for the tip. Now we have a new 23/32" subfloor in room #1 and will add a 23/32" underlayment (you can see it unattached on floor in pic) In room #2, we will install 3/8" underlayment (the top flooring will be laminate planks in both rooms). This will be about 1/32" in room #1 that we will have to sand just between the two adjoining rooms.

As you can see in the pics, the 3/8" will be butted to the 23/32" in room #1. There will be two seams on top of each other at this junction--subfloor and underlayment from room #1. Could we remove a couple layers of plywood about 4" and cut a notch out to go into room #2 to avoid the two seams? There will be a lot of traffic between these two rooms where there are double doors.
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Old 07-26-2013, 06:14 PM   #29
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Addendum to my last post about this subject: Of course the underlayment will be perpendicular to the subfloor, unlike what was in the picture. We would have to remove a couple layers (if it is possible without too much work) along the 8' side. Would 4" over the seam be enough??
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Old 07-27-2013, 12:06 AM   #30
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Glue the tongue/groove joint against noise/for strength, fastener size/spacing, no fasteners into framing, etc.; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...KEftFQ&cad=rja

Gary

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