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-   -   Need help with installing T&G Plywood subfloor (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/need-help-installing-t-g-plywood-subfloor-183757/)

WheelerGirl 07-17-2013 04:17 PM

Need help with installing T&G Plywood subfloor
 
Hello, I'm a newbie here.

Putting down new subfloor--Joists (16" oc) are ready for 3/4" T&G 4'x8' Plywood. Nailers need to be added along one side of wall where the 8' edge will sit, so the edge will be fastened with screws 6" a part. I'm not going to do this in the middle where the T&G joints will be sitting perpendicular to joists.

I am cutting 2x6 pieces to fit in between joist spacing. My question is: should these be a tight fit or should there be spacing (if so--how much) for expansion/condensing?

Also, how far from the T&G edge should the screws be fastened? (These joists are a little wider than 2 inches.)

I will probably have other questions about installing this subfloor, but have found out a lot of information already after researching for hours--but can't find anything about this nailer question.

joecaption 07-17-2013 07:03 PM

The blocking is installed tight, there needs to be no movement.
Can you post a picture of what your joist look like?
Reason I ask if there wider then 2" then it sounds like an old house, now would be the time fix a few things that are almost always wrong in older homes.
Undersized, over spanned, uneven, sagging in the middle, sloping to one side are all common issues that should be addressed before any sub flooring.
Using #8 ring shank nails in a framing nailer would be much faster and not leave raised area where the screw goes in.
They need to be at least every 6".

WheelerGirl 07-18-2013 03:03 PM

Thanks for any and all help!
 
Yes, Joecaption, you are right--this is a very old two-story farm house here in Mid-Michian (built 1920) with additions to the back built in the 30's.

My husband (moved here with his family when he was 12) now (70) and I (60) are extreme DIY'ers--but we have never done a sub floor. As our T&G plywood sheets are acclimating in the room, we are putting in nailers and reenforcing the joists. I'll try and post a couple pictures for you if you want to help me further.

Since I only found one discussion about nailers between joists (which someone said to leave a small gap for expansion&contraction, and I believe somewhere else instead at this forum) and after hours of research--I decided to post my questions. One of my frustrations is the different advice for the same situation--maybe there is more than one way to do it? Some building practices, though, there is only one way--the correct way:yes:!! We have to be very flexible in this old house or we will have a nervous break down:eek:!!

Our floor 12'x15' (future bedroom) needs to be built up one inch to be flush with other room (where the finish flooring to both rooms will be the laminate no-glue type planks over foam sheet which will go over the 3/8" underlayment--the 3/4" subfloor will have another 1/4" plywood added to top). Of course at three different BIG box stores, we couldn't find an exact way to get a true inch--we came very close by 1/16th inch, and will sand the highest floor at the double door entry from one room to the other because we want the top floor to be flush with no transition piece (oh well--this old house has many problems like that and we can live with it).

I will measure the space between the joists and cut the 2x4 (or should we use 2x6?) the same width like you advised.

Well, for the fastener advice you gave me--we will be tightening the screws flush as possible and a titch countersunk if needed--since we are applying two more layers (fastened with staples with a gun), I don't see where screws will be a problem. Of all MY research it seems it is a little more than half of DIY'ers are using screws and adhesion on joists instead of ring-shank nails.

How close or far from the edge (all four sides) should the fasteners go??

MTN REMODEL LLC 07-18-2013 05:15 PM

Wheeler,,, I'm really an advocate of "screw it and glue it". Yes it's more time and nominal more cost, but squeeking floors with a hard covering (wood verse carpet) are a PIA to chase down and fix.

I'm confused what exactly you're nailing/scewing into. If it's a 2X (1 1/2 wide), I'd place the screws about 3/8 in from edge. You can slope them slightly toward the center of the joist.

CENTERLINE MV 07-18-2013 05:24 PM

Use PL 400 for glue. If you don't mind the extra cost & time go with screws but its not necessary if the subfloor is snug to the joists and there is adequate glue. Code states ( at least here) 4-6 inches btwn nails along seems and 6-8" in the field. Snap a line square to the joists to begin with or you'll be cursing the entire time if you're really off.

WheelerGirl 07-18-2013 05:33 PM

MTN Remodel--thanks for some info.

"I'm confused what exactly you're nailing/scewing into. If it's a 2X (1 1/2 wide), I'd place the screws about 3/8 in from edge. You can slope them slightly toward the center of the joist."

The joists are true 2" (and even a little wider). So I"ll do the above for the butt ends. The longer side of the plywood (T&G side), going perpendicular to the joists will have plenty room for fasteners. Is anywhere from 1/2" to 1" ok? For stability, is there maximum spacing of the fasteners to the edge of the T&G (8' side)?

WheelerGirl

CENTERLINE MV 07-18-2013 05:38 PM

If you're going into true 2", you may not need to angle your fasteners. There is no maximum from the perpendicular edge (8') that you need to worry about. As long as you're glued down, you're good.

WheelerGirl 07-18-2013 05:42 PM

CenterlineMV: Yes I did buy PL400. I found a lot of information on all my many hours research (some from this forum also). I do know about the chalk line and bought one for this job. Also, I know about the spacing--6" on all 4 edges and 8" in the middle on all joists.

But my Question was how close/far from the edge. MTN Remodel said to go 3/8" and angled (hope screw head goes flush (??) on the butt joints--but what about the T&G side. See my earlier post. Thanks for your info. WheelerGirl

WheelerGirl 07-18-2013 05:53 PM

Centerline, you answered my question as I was typing. I'll feel better now with all the input as we get to work with subfloor in a couple days. Right now with this awful heat-wave, we are putting in a window A/C and have to run an electric cable from attic because we can't use an extension cord and there is not an outlet close to window. What a job in this old house. We tried three different spots and keep hitting a very thick piece of wood besides the very hard cement like plaster and the lathe boards. We had to get out the big
Saw-Zall. Has to be done--we can't sleep!!

MTN REMODEL LLC 07-18-2013 06:39 PM

Wheel.... CENTER had great suggestions for ya....

I always use Pl 400 too... its good stuff... but I still like screws...probably overkill on my part... but seems I go into a bunch of flip homes with squeeking floors... and some glue residue (don't know it was PL) and ring shank 8's... yet the floor squeeks.

I actually go down my chalk lines and predrill the floor substrate, with helper right behind dropping the screw in. Unless, you have really old hard Doug, the screw will flush right into ply or osb. (No need to use a counter sink).

Oh one thing if you haven't done subfloor before, that PL on joists makes them slicker that hell, CAREFULL if you are hopping joists.

Good luck

Best

WheelerGirl 07-18-2013 07:21 PM

MTN: Thanks for the adhesion tip. I thought of another question. When we put down the first piece about a full sheet, I know to face the tongue side to the wall first and stagger the seams with the other pieces (have to cut one in about half size). I will have 6 pieces three to a row in our 12'X15' room--BUT--what about that last piece in the row (do we cut it a little narrower, so it will gently fall down into place after we align the tongue into the groove?) How do we tighten the T&G together. We will be using a 4 foot piece of 2x4 to gently tap the one piece of plywood into the other--but don't know how to do the last piece. I'm sure the slippery glue will help. Thanks WheelerGirl (Katherine)

Pittsville 07-19-2013 12:13 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by WheelerGirl
How do we tighten the T&G together. We will be using a 4 foot piece of 2x4 to gently tap the one piece of plywood into the other--but don't know how to do the last piece. I'm sure the slippery glue will help. Thanks WheelerGirl (Katherine)

A pull bar will do the trick. They sell at the box stores for a couple of bucks. One style looks like this:

MTN REMODEL LLC 07-19-2013 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pittsville (Post 1217808)
A pull bar will do the trick. They sell at the box stores for a couple of bucks. One style looks like this:

Pitts right.... but it's not finish flooring... don't know your exact layout/circumstance, but usually just a prybar to wedge it over works... never really has been a difficult issue in my experience..

Best

WheelerGirl 07-19-2013 03:12 PM

Thanks Pitts and MTN--we have one of those already. Hope that last piece in the row goes in ok. Right now we are cutting the vent holes for the heater. Our first 8' plywood is going down soon. Thanks everyone for all the help.

CENTERLINE MV 07-19-2013 06:34 PM

Any pics?


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