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Joe Carola · 11-15-2009, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CleIndiana

Hopefully your still following this Joe, because I just came up with a new idea. I was driving around my neighbor hood and saw a house with the same style porch that i want. From what I could tell you would build up and off the existing ridge board. so the way it looked to me was that the whole front section of the roof is lifted about a couple of feet and that seemed to be how they got the right pitch. I wish I could have a drawing for you but sketch it isnt letting me open your drawing that you had fr me.

I know exactly what you're talking about. I was going to suggest that before, but I thought you have an EL shaped roof. I extend front ridges all the time when doing dormers. If you don't have to deal with another roof in the back, raising the front ridge will work fine. I will draw your roof for you so that you can have the porch girder the same height as the top plate. I will extend your front ridge to make the porch roof a 3/12.

CleIndiana · 11-15-2009, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Carola

I know exactly what you're talking about. I was going to suggest that before, but I thought you have an EL shaped roof. I extend front ridges all the time when doing dormers. If you don't have to deal with another roof in the back, raising the front ridge will work fine. I will draw your roof for you so that you can have the porch girder the same height as the top plate. I will extend your front ridge to make the porch roof a 3/12.

Your the man Joe, as far as the garage I would just build around it like the existing roof is correct? and also since I'm spanning farther then before do I need to switch to 2x8 or 2x10?

the main house is straight with two ridges and gable ends, and then the garage sit at a 90 to the house on the far left side and that roof has two ridges and is gabled as well.

It looks just like that guys picture I posted on the first page.

Joe Carola · 11-15-2009, 01:46 PM

Here's the drawing.

CleIndiana · 11-15-2009, 05:32 PM

Thanks for the drawing, I think this is the way I should go. The only thing that may give me trouble is that sky light. Also since this is pretty much a new roof system on the front should I go with a bigger rafter or just stay with the 2x6?

Joe Carola · 11-15-2009, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CleIndiana

Thanks for the drawing, I think this is the way I should go. The only thing that may give me trouble is that sky light. Also since this is pretty much a new roof system on the front should I go with a bigger rafter or just stay with the 2x6?

The skylight won't give you trouble at all. It's just more framing involved. If it doesn't work out with the new roof and keeping the same opening with framing a shaft and giving you enough light, you will have to reframe the existing opening and sheetrock/tape/spackle/paint..etc.

You might have to depending on snow loads in your area. You really have to check with an Architect or Engineer about the rafters and ridge. I';m just drawing what you can do. If you would need to use 2x8's I will draw 2x8's for you. That will change things a little, but not much. You also would have to install collar ties from the existing ridge to the new shed rafters.

CleIndiana · 11-15-2009, 10:24 PM

Thanks Joe Ill get with an engineer about the loads. Will I still need that collar if use the 2x8 or is it there for more support to the new roof?

Joe Carola · 11-16-2009, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CleIndiana

Thanks Joe Ill get with an engineer about the loads. Will I still need that collar if use the 2x8 or is it there for more support to the new roof?

Maybe, maybe not. Depends on what the Engineer says. He might say you don't need the collar ties. That total length can be done on one shot. If youb use a 2x6, the kneewall might have to take the weight at that point. If so you have to make sure any headers you have in your back wall can handle the weight. You have a few options that will work for you.

You are going to have a funky spot on your roof on the other side of the perpendicular roof you have a couple options there also how to frame that. Do you have the height and distance that top ridge is coming down from the main roof?

CleIndiana · 11-16-2009, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Carola

Maybe, maybe not. Depends on what the Engineer says. He might say you don't need the collar ties. That total length can be done on one shot. If youb use a 2x6, the kneewall might have to take the weight at that point. If so you have to make sure any headers you have in your back wall can handle the weight. You have a few options that will work for you.

You are going to have a funky spot on your roof on the other side of the perpendicular roof you have a couple options there also how to frame that. Do you have the height and distance that top ridge is coming down from the main roof?

If you talking about were the garage ridge meets the main roof yes because the garage ridge sits below the main roof by a ft ft and half. To me it would seem that around that area i would just be building around the garage roof. Or I could stop at the garages ridge line and just flash in the side of the new roof.

If not then I'm clueless