Nailing solid maple crown problems!! help!!

zetti1102

Hello everyone, I am having problems nailing a solid maple crown moulding to new kitchen cabinets. I have the crown backer up that is made from solid maple as well and everytime i try to shoot a nail through it, the nail goes through the crown but hits the backer and curls back. I using a porter cable pancake compressor and a p.c. finishing nailer (if that helps.) i tired putting the psi up to the max on the gun (120 psi) and still same problem. Am i doing something wrong or is this wood really hard to nail through?

Wildie

I never nail crown molding under ant circumstances. I drill pilot holes and install using cabinet screws (small heads).

oh'mike

Maple is that hard---If you are going to successfully nail into it---you want the shortest nail that will hold it---and make sure that you gun is held so that the nail hits that backer straight on---

Any angle and the bullet will glance off and fish hook.--Mike---

oberkc

Predrill. Hammer. Nailset.

We all remember hammers, don't we?

Kevin171

I would use a softer backer such as poplar if thats still an option. For hand nailing, You can also pre-drill with the nail you are securing it with. Tighten into the drill chuck just like like a bit and carefully pre-drill the holes. Patience will get you there.

Ron6519

The nails might be too long or too light guage.
Are you trying to shoot through both the crown and the backer into the cabinet frame?
Ron

zetti1102

I'm using a 16 gauge nailer 1.5" nails. Should I maybe use 3/4? The crown backer is made of maple also, is has a decorative edge ok it that sits on top of the cabs and then has a lip for the crown. I thought about putting a little liquid nails on it and shooting a few pin nails into it, does that sound like an ok thing to do?

Ron6519

You're posting like everybody knows what you're doing and what products you're trying to put up.
We do not know.
This is what you do.
1. Install the backer with a construction adhesive and a nail that is 1/2"- 3/4" longer then the thickness of the board.
2. Install the crown with a 1" long nail.

Ron

mrgins

I assume you mean trim head screws. I'd never do that because the filled screw hole is too noticeable. Each to their own I guess.

mrgins

I usually screw the backer to the cabinet and then face nail the crown to it. I've also predrilled and screwed thru the backer into the back of the crown

zetti1102

I'm gonna do without the screws. Especially since the crown is stained and finished to match the cabinets. Does anyone have any thoughts on the liquid nails and pins?

oberkc

Adhesive is good in my mind, unless you think you will ever need to remove them. I know when I paint adjacent surfaces, I find the results better when I remove the trim boards.

COLDIRON

Whaaaat ? Never heard anybody removing trim to paint, just sayin.

Use PL construction adhesive from HD stuff is like welding.

oberkc

I guess it is just me, then. I like that clean-like-new look when there is no paint on trim. I don't like that little fillet of paint next to trim when one tries cutting it in without removing the trim. It also give me the opportunity to re-finish the trim if worn a bit.

I guess I am just overly picky. Just sayin.

SDC

I have installed hundreds of kitchens...never screwed a stick of crown....
Your nails are too big. 15 or 16g nails are too big for crown, even the 18g are too big.
You need a pin nailer...about $80 -$100 nails are so small you will not even need to fill the holes, glue all corners inside and outside.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_9g9cxy2xz0_b

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