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Old 08-25-2008, 05:17 PM   #1
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Mold From Leak


Greetings To All.
I Have Had A Roof Leak; Since Repaired; This Caused Mold, Blistering, Peeling Of Joint Tape. (joint Of Wall And Ceiling)

I Will Purchase 'kilz' To Cover The Darkening Of The Sheet Rock.

What Should I Use To Remove The Mold?

Should I Then Mud And Tape The Damage; Or Apply The 'kliz' First And Then Mud And Tape?

Thanks For Your Most Experienced Reply.
Regards,
Fish96

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Old 08-25-2008, 05:26 PM   #2
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Mold From Leak


50% bleach solution on a very damp rag or sponge 1st. cover-up so you don't bleach the rug or your good shirt. Let is dry... this is also a good old painters trick on water stains... repeat a few times... maybe the stain will go away. If it doesn't disappear...kilz.. and paint

Ps remove damaged tape joint 2nd. retreat area with bleach. kilz..mud work..kilz or primer
paint.


Last edited by Big Bob; 08-25-2008 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 08-25-2008, 06:08 PM   #3
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Mold From Leak


Hi Fish. Depending on the extent of the damage, it would probably be wise to replace the sheetrock that got wet. If it was wet enough to cause the tape to come off, it was pretty saturated. Wallboard isn't really able to take that. Minor staining can be painted over with kilz pretty successfully.

Getting that damaged moldy sheetrock off and replacing it is definately the best and most permanent repair.
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Old 08-26-2008, 03:13 PM   #4
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Mold From Leak


10% bleach solution is enough to kill mold without damaging your lungs when you breath the fumes. Most drywall that was wet enough to get moldy has suffered some structural deterioration and needs to be replaced like Termites says.
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:30 PM   #5
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Mold From Leak


hi

i like your site

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Old 08-29-2008, 02:24 AM   #6
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Mold From Leak


"depending on the extent of the damage" ..... The minute I question if something needs to be removed...I have answered the question..and I remove it. Another benefit to removal is access to possible hidden damage. A long term continual leak is good habitat for mold, mildew, ants, wood rot, and termites...etc...

I also do not believe in doing work that is not needed. I get paid to know the difference.

A roof leak can be major and likely with even a minor shower, or intermittent requiring downpour, wind driven rain or lengthy storm conditions.

If OP could post some pictures and advise us of conditions discovered during their attic inspection we might be able to give a more informed opinion.

The only comment in OP post that caused me concern was "blistering".
A better description of what is blistered would be helpful. ie. paint? drywall paper? other questions are is the drywall deformed? does it feel cool to the touch..( I would feel it mold and all...I also smoke) this could indicate a high moisture content. OR test with a moisture meter.

water intrusion in a ceiling area: Water likes to find a way out,,, usually down (gravity). If attic has batt insulation... water will soak through to the facing..run down the facing to a tear or end. As OP advised his problem is at a wall ceiling interface. Unless the leak was directly above.. the water may have traveled down the kraft paper insulation facing to the end of the batt and rolled to the area of visual damage. If OP has loose fill insulation than roof leak was probably close to damage below. When water hits the attic side of the sheet rock ..it usually finds dust..which adds to the surface tension...the water will run before it soaks.. it loves to find ceiling electrical boxes and the butt joints on drywall. Water will soak or wick through the drywall compound at the joints and through the thin paper tape much faster than the back paper and compressed dense gypsum board. (OP may have some damaged insulation.)

Thus water damage to tape joint does not indicate to me that sheet rock is structurally damaged and that replacement is required. If OP is normal and does not live in a hermetically sealed house...then mold spores on the finished surface plane of the ceiling might have had the right conditions to bloom..without the sheet rock being structural compromised by water intrusion.

Maintenance6 is correct: a 10% solution is often advised as adequate to kill mold. The 50% solution I advise is dual purpose...kill the mold and reduce the stain.

I apologize for being verbose in this post and not being informative enough in my fist post.
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Old 08-29-2008, 06:28 AM   #7
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Mold From Leak


That's a good post, Big Bob. Nothing more to be said.

What we do while we're 'in' there, having taken away the wallboard in the corners, is reinforce (where we can) the corner studs themselves. Many a time, we see two 2x4s at 90 degrees to each other, giving adequate support (but not enough IMO) to the butted sheets of wallboard. Not always possible, but where we can we add another 2x4 in that 90 degree angle, behind, to reinforce the corner.

We see far less tape peeling and complaints coming from corners that way...
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:26 PM   #8
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Just make sure the bleached areas are dry before you start priming or painting.
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Old 09-09-2008, 01:41 PM   #9
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Thank You All For Your Learned Input And Advice. I Shall Replace The Sheetrock In Question. I Suppose I Only Have To Remove The Damaged Section, Back To A Place Where I Have A Nailing Surface. Then Just Mud And Tape As You Would Any Given Joint.
Again Thanks For Sharing Your Experience With Me.

Your Expertise Helped Me Dope Out And Build My First Two Sets Of Stairs To The Back Deck.
Regards,
Fish96
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:45 PM   #10
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Mold From Leak


Quote:
Originally Posted by FISH96 View Post
Thank You All For Your Learned Input And Advice. I Shall Replace The Sheetrock In Question. I Suppose I Only Have To Remove The Damaged Section, Back To A Place Where I Have A Nailing Surface. Then Just Mud And Tape As You Would Any Given Joint.
Again Thanks For Sharing Your Experience With Me.

Your Expertise Helped Me Dope Out And Build My First Two Sets Of Stairs To The Back Deck.
Regards,
Fish96
You don't even have to remove a full sheet, or even all the way to the floor if it isn't all damaged. You can cut out the area that is bad, with a jig saw. If there ends up being an unsupported joint, put a backer on it (any piece of wood and screw it to both pieces of sheet rock.

I always use drywall screws, but there are ringshanks for drywall that you can use if you really mean you want to use nails.

You will need a bucket of Plus3 (blue lid - 5 gallon pail, around $11) from a big box store. Also you will want to use fiberglass tape on your joints, it is easier to work with than paper.

You will need to sand and do 2-3 coats of mud (plus3) on your joints.

Jamie

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