Miter suggestions for larger trim in 6 bathrooms?

bokeh · 10-13-2011, 05:24 AM

I got an estimate for installing baseboard molding and the lowest price was $3/linear foot, and that is with me supplying the trim.

In 6 bathrooms, I will be installing 6-8" baseboard molding and various smaller molding to clean up corners around showers, cabinets,etc..

-I have about 180 liner feet of baseboard trim.
-not all angles are 90 degree

for the cost of the baseboard alone I can buy a Dewalt 16ga cordless nailer, and still have cash to spare. besides I will own the tool for future use. thats not counting the cost of what it would be for all the additional trim that needs installed to clean up other corners probably another 100 linear feet of work, haven't measured that yet.

I'm not sure what to get for mitering the corners of the trim. I was going to buy a Hitachi 10" miter, but read in some reviews that if you plan on cutting trim wider than 3.5" to get another saw...

I'm open for suggestions, weather it be hand mitering or power, I need to be able to cut some taller baseboard.

thanks

**oh'mike** · 10-13-2011, 06:24 AM

For large trims like you described a 12" double tilt, sliding compound miter saw would be the choice.

And to make your coped corners--a coping saw--and a Dremel type tool with a sanding sleeve---

Just Bill · 10-13-2011, 07:25 AM

What he said, but only outside corners get mitered. All other joints should get coped joints. They fit tighter and stay that way longer.

Ron6519 · 10-13-2011, 08:55 AM

You can use a 10" sliding compound saw with a single bevel for up to 10" moldings if you lay them flat on the saw base.
A double bevel is handier as there's less maneuvering with the wood.

bokeh · 10-13-2011, 06:05 PM

Tanks for the help.

I went ahead and ordered the DEWALT DW718 12-Inch Double-Bevel Slide Compound Miter Saw, DEWALT DWX723 Heavy Duty Miter Saw Stand, and a 80 tooth Forrest blade, and the DEWALT DC618K XRP 18-Volt Cordless 1-1/4 Inch - 2-1/2 Inch 16 Gauge 20 Degree Angled Finish Nailer Kit.

got it all on amazon for what seemed to be a good price. the 12" miter was only about $10 more than the 10", so I went with the bigger one. I just hope I didn't overlook some feature. Gotta love having it shipped to your door for free, and at a better price than any local store has to offer

all for about the cost that it would have cost my lowest estimate that a carpenter gave me to install, without trim cost. Now at least I'll have the right tools to do some more work around here.

bokeh · 10-13-2011, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Just Bill

What he said, but only outside corners get mitered. All other joints should get coped joints. They fit tighter and stay that way longer.

I've read up on coping, and watched a few videos. Is a clean coped joint possible from someone who hasn't done it before, or is it a technique that requires finesse and experience to look good?

**oh'mike** · 10-13-2011, 07:28 PM

It's a quick learning curve---Just remember to back cut the miter a few degrees---

The biggest pain is getting the correct coping saw blade---if you have trouble switch to a finer tooth.

Coping saws cut on the pull stroke so put the blade in the frame with the teeth pointing to the handle.

I'm not recommending this method but go to Youtube and search for Coping with an angle grinder.

Fun videos---and works well for crazy copes like cutting a mantel into a stone fireplace.

rredogg · 10-13-2011, 09:37 PM

So far as coping inside corners my advice is to use an angle grinder. Got the idea from the FINE HOME BUILDING SITE. Here is an illustration on U-tube, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EijqMNYBsLg. Saved me a lot of time doing it this way. One thing to remember is your going to kick up a lot of sawdust and would want to do this outside.

Just my two cents, rredogg

firehawkmph · 10-13-2011, 11:07 PM

I use a porter cable jigsaw for all my coping work, from shoe mold on up. I use a smaller scrolling blade then finish up with a rat tail file. Very quick once you practice a bit and not much mess at all. No need for dremels or angle grinders.
Mike Hawkins