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-   -   Miter saw kickback with oak quarter round (http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/miter-saw-kickback-oak-quarter-round-129117/)

KukuChoma 01-07-2012 10:43 AM

Miter saw kickback with oak quarter round
 
Hi all,

I'm trimming up several rooms in our house using a Dewalt 12" miter saw, and ran into an issue today. I've already installed crown (painted maple) and baseboards (pine with quarter round), in one room without incident. Today while cutting oak quarter round, 0 degree cuts were fine, but whenever I did my 45 degree cuts for corners, the wood would "catch", splinter, torque the length that I'm holding violently, and shoot fragments behind the saw, resulting in a ruined length of quarter round and a startled me. I tried to slow down my cut, but the same thing happened. I'm making sure that the material is solidly against the fence. My blade is new and not visibly warped.

I'm pretty new to the DIY field, and things were going well and I was enjoying the work until this, which has taken a little wind out of my sails. I want to make sure that I'm using the saw properly and safely before I continue.

Thanks so much for your help!

DangerMouse 01-07-2012 10:50 AM

How many teeth in the blade you're using? Is it a rip/crosscut blade or a trim blade?

DM

12penny 01-07-2012 10:57 AM

How was it positioned on the table/fence?

KukuChoma 01-07-2012 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DangerMouse (Post 815331)
How many teeth in the blade you're using? Is it a rip/crosscut blade or a trim blade?

DM

Diablo 80 tooth fine finish trim blade.

http://www.performancetoolcenter.com...saw-blade.html

KukuChoma 01-07-2012 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12penny (Post 815332)
How was it positioned on the table/fence?

Positioned with the right angle firmly against the fence. I tried with the end that I'm not bracing just past the blade so that it's not against the opposite fence, and also so it's against the opposite fence, with similar results.

loneframer 01-07-2012 11:08 AM

I like to use a sacrificial piece of material against the fence when cutting small trim profiles. Most times the air movement caused by the spinning blade is enough to draw a small cut-off into the gap between the fence components and ruin the moment.:laughing:

DangerMouse 01-07-2012 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KukuChoma (Post 815326)
I tried to slow down my cut, but the same thing happened. I'm making sure that the material is solidly against the fence. My blade is new and not visibly warped.

hmmmm.... you pretty much covered anything else I can think of.


DM

loneframer 01-07-2012 11:10 AM

Another thing to try is to allow the blade to come to a complete stop before raising the blade.

KukuChoma 01-07-2012 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loneframer (Post 815345)
I like to use a sacrificial piece of material against the fence when cutting small trim profiles. Most times the air movement caused by the spinning blade is enough to draw a small cut-off into the gap between the fence components and ruin the moment.:laughing:

This sounds like a good idea. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

NASCAR9 01-07-2012 11:27 AM

I have a 12" sliding Dewalt with a Diablo 90+ tooth fine finish trim blade. I was having chip out trouble with pre-finished maple trim. I tried everything and still chip out.

To solve this believe it or not, I bought a single bevel Dewalt 10" and cut the same trim with the blade that comes on the saw perfectly! The 10" turns about 1000 rpm higher, and a hell of a lot less torque.

I now use the 10" saw for all the trim that will fit. The 12" is for construction only.

fixrite 01-07-2012 11:36 AM

I have a 12" Dewalt sliding compound saw and have never had any problems other than using an undersized extension cord which produced a noticeable drop in speed at the saw.

NASCAR9 01-07-2012 11:40 AM

fixrite, If you're refering to my post, I always use a 20' heavy duty cord with my power tools, no RPM drop here.

fixrite 01-07-2012 12:01 PM

I normally do as well, but I did try to use a cheap cord once and had this happen so I thought I would share. Most of my cords on site are 10 gauge monsters, so not a problem. Sometimes we get comfy with things as I did and just took the first cord closest to me, lesson learned.

BigJim 01-07-2012 12:07 PM

Loneframer is dead on, I also have the 12 Dewalt 708 and have the same problem no matter what blade I use. I always take 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood 3 inches tall and the length of the saw table and screw, one to the edge of the other piece of plywood forming a 90 bed like is on the miter saw. I clamp the plywood onto the bed of the miter saw and cut the small trim on the plywood. Not only does it not sling parts all over the place the plywood gives you a good reference point to cut the trim from.

The reason it slings the small pieces is the piece has no support on the back after being cut, and will move while the blade is spinning and the blade will catch it and throw it. It will startle you if you aren't expecting it.

KukuChoma 01-07-2012 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiju1943 (Post 815387)
Loneframer is dead on, I also have the 12 Dewalt 708 and have the same problem no matter what blade I use. I always take 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood 3 inches tall and the length of the saw table and screw, one to the edge of the other piece of plywood forming a 90 bed like is on the miter saw. I clamp the plywood onto the bed of the miter saw and cut the small trim on the plywood. Not only does it not sling parts all over the place the plywood gives you a good reference point to cut the trim from.

The reason it slings the small pieces is the piece has no support on the back after being cut, and will move while the blade is spinning and the blade will catch it and throw it. It will startle you if you aren't expecting it.

I started using a piece of 3/4 plywood behind the trim and have had many fewer problems.

Learn something new every day! Thanks to everyone for the help and I'm sure I'll be back on here soon with more questions.


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