Miter Saw Blades \ Crown Moulding Jigs Discussion

WorkOnIt · 06-14-2007, 11:43 AM

Folks --
First a question about miter saw blades… I have a Ridgid 12” Compound Miter Saw (God Bless my wife, she bought for me, not knowing that this a very high-end contractor-grade saw and a bit overkill for DIYer, however it has come in handy when cutting headers for a previous project), but the blade is starting to go on me. (I think…) Basically not getting as clean of cuts and it is starting to chip on some cuts.

So I am in the market for a new blade. A friend works at a construction supply company and is able to get me blades at cost. So he gave me the “middle of the road” blades they carry, because I am not into spending over $100 for a blade.
Basically I cut a lot of molding, (we are replacing every piece in our house and pretty much adding crown everywhere). I am also into building things for the garage and shed, so I cut a bunch of 2X4, and 2X6’s.
I understand the basics on blades, the more teeth the finer the cutting, but other than that any feedback on the blades listed below would be great.

BLACK & DECKER MFG CO
Nonstick-Coat Carbide Tip Combination Blade 12" Diameter, 1" Arbor, 80 Teeth, .098" Kerf

ROBERT BOSCH TOOL CORPORATION
DESC SEMI-INDUSTRIAL SERIES FOR CUTTING WOOD SAW BLADE, 12" DIA, 40 TEETH, 1" ARBOR W/ 5/8" BUSHING, .131" KERF, 4700 RPM

BLACK & DECKER MFG CO
DESC ULTRA THIN KERF CARBIDE TIPPED SAW BLADE, 12" DIAMETER, 60 TEETH, 1" ARBOR, .097" KERF, 6400 RPM

Crown Molding –
I am starting to get OK at it and the 3 rooms that I had done, I used a jig that I created. Since in was hand-made, the hardest thing to do was secure it to the saw table, so that when rotating to the different miter settings, it stayed put. I jerry-rigged it and it worked decent, but was interested in what other DIYers do, or what the pros do.
Better yet, any good jigs out there for sale?
Maybe later, when I get home I will post a pic of my jig setup…

WorkOnIt

ktkelly · 06-14-2007, 05:41 PM

Freud blades...

I've never used a jig with my miter saw. And I've never seen a trim carpenter use one either.

Just bed the material and cut..

joe3534 · 06-15-2007, 01:44 PM

These work exceptionally well.

www.cut-n-crown.com

cabinetman · 06-17-2007, 05:50 AM

An 80 tooth CT blade will produce the smoothest cuts for moulding. Use one with less teeth for heavier stock in just crosscutting. Jigs can be helpful if you have a problem with getting the orientation of which way to position the stock. You could cut an angular support for positioning the moulding against the fence. If the moulding is held at the standing angle as it would if installed, it can be cut at 45 deg (either right or left) miter. Just remember to keep your hands and fingers out of the way. Visualize the cut operation before you do it and see if you are in any danger.