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|03-20-2013, 12:09 AM||#1|
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 9Rewards Points: 10
maple stair treads
I am retrofitting my stairs. Originally there was oak hardwood and i have taken the hardwood out . I levelled each 2 by 10 , planed them removed the nails and screwed them in .
I am at the stage of attaching the 1 inch 1/8 solid maple treads.
I will be using loctite premium pl 3 X to attach them.
I do not want to nail them in or screw them in from topside.
Can i drive screws ( i have access underneath ) through the 2 by 10 up into the treads to hold them in place while the construction adhesive cures. I plan to leave the screws in i guess
How many screws should i use for each tread and where should they be placed ?
How long should the screws be.
1 1/2 ( 2 by 10 ) and 1 inch 1/8 ( tread )
Should i Pre drill into both 2 by 10 and maple treads?
What type of screws ( flooring , deck, wood ??)
What size of screws ? Should it be a thick screw or thin?
Is there a chance of the maple splitting because of the screws?
Should i have someone heavy ( my buddy) stand on the tread while i screw from underneath?:
|03-20-2013, 06:00 AM||#2|
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 34,291Rewards Points: 13,712
Got a picture.
Trying to figure out how someone got away with using a 2 X 10 for a stringer.
Was suppost to be a 2 X 12 instead.
I would use 2 X 2 cleats that are attached to the side of the stringers.
Best to predrill the cleat with clearance holes for the screws to attach it and for the holes for the screws that are going into the tread so as the screw goes in it pulls it tight instead of pushing it away. Use Tite bond II and 3" ceramic coated decking screws for the cleats.
Maple is a really hardwood, so yes I would drill a pilot hole for the screws. Once again I'd use ceramic coated decking screws.
I'd use a drill depth coller on the dill bit to set the depth.
Use at least 2" screws.
And yes having someone stand on it is not a bad idea so nothing moves.
How do you plan on cutting these treads to width? A sliding compound mitre saw works best because it needs to be done in one pass.
When cutting to depth I set the table saw at a slight angle (2 deg.) so the top of the treads making full contact but the bottom is not so you get a nice tight fit.
|03-20-2013, 08:29 AM||#3|
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fairhaven, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,915Rewards Points: 2,108
Welcome to the Forum!
with 2x10 cut stringers I would recommend attaching a 2x along the bottom edge of the stringer (on the side). You could add two for intermediate stringers. You may have to rip it down so it will fit. This will double/triple the material and make your stairs stronger.
"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"
|03-20-2013, 09:22 AM||#4|
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,726Rewards Points: 2,210
You should actually through drill the 2 x 10 with a bit larger than the thread width of the fastener, and Pilot drill the tread, then you can delete Bobo.
Good idea Joe on the angle but wouldn't that leave the bottom of the nose open? The best way would be to dado the stringers, like they do in prefab stairs, but I guess thats not an option here.
" Most people would rather die than think, and most do " Bertrand Russell
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