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Old 02-10-2011, 06:12 AM   #16
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Loose stairs


Looks to me like some cleats under the treads (parts you step on) might be called for here stringers (frame) are pulling away until this fixed.

Op may know this, but I would think when trying to pull the stringers back in, do it with several threaded rods tightening one then another right on up to the top. Go back over them and tighten some more. Repeat until the stringers are where they need to be. In other words, it might be wise to do the alignment in increments to avoid excess stress on the stringers.

What are those three rods in post #12?
Is that where the starirs go through the ceiling?

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Old 02-10-2011, 06:46 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by boman47k View Post
Looks to me like some cleats under the treads (parts you step on) might be called for here stringers (frame) are pulling away until this fixed.

Op may know this, but I would think when trying to pull the stringers back in, do it with several threaded rods tightening one then another right on up to the top. Go back over them and tighten some more. Repeat until the stringers are where they need to be. In other words, it might be wise to do the alignment in increments to avoid excess stress on the stringers.

What are those three rods in post #12?
Is that where the starirs go through the ceiling?
I don't understand your two questions.

in post #12, those are pics taken of the threads from the top with the carpet pulled back.

What do you mean, by go through the ceiling? These step are going into the basement.


I have six rods to work with now, I will be doing the work later this evening.
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Old 02-10-2011, 06:50 AM   #18
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Hamp...go to a big box store or book store and pick up a book on building stairs. That will explain the parts and definitions, but as suggested, DON'T use the stairs or support them in several places, QUICKLY. If unsure of what to do, get a pro.
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Old 02-10-2011, 08:00 AM   #19
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I don't understand your two questions.

in post #12, those are pics taken of the threads from the top with the carpet pulled back.

What do you mean, by go through the ceiling? These step are going into the basement.


I have six rods to work with now, I will be doing the work later this evening.

I see. It is hard for me to know what I am looking at. I ee what looks like dw mud, so I figured this was where the stairs went into the upper level through the ceiling of the basement. My bad.

I can't tell much about the situation.



Good luck.

Last edited by boman47k; 02-10-2011 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:23 PM   #20
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I have done what you are thinking of doing with the rod, three rods; bottom, mid point and closer to the top. Equal, staged tightening and clean out all the dirt / wood splinters before starting to pull them in. Careful with the rod positions so you won't catch your feet in the future. Add some 3 inch screws from the top of each step at an angle into the " sides " once things are all back in place. Replace / add blocking underneath as required.
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:08 PM   #21
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I don't understand this:
"Careful with the rod positions so you won't catch your feet in the future."
You are putting the rods under the stairs, aren't you?
The poster will need more them 3 rods. Minimum, every 2 steps.
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:38 AM   #22
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Sorry I should have considered the riser is not open to the lower level and people's toes won't be going that far
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:03 AM   #23
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Fellow IT guy here who has had his fair share of home renovations. If I were in your shoes this is what I would do. Assuming your shoes do not want to get into builidng a new stair case and you have some room on one side of the stair case.
First support that thing so you dont kill yourself. Then I would tear off all of the carpeting. Next I would clean out all of the dado cuts on both sides of the treads. I would get a handful of ratchet straps and start wrapping them over the stringers near each step (you could use your threaded rod here too). Then I would slowly rachet each one up and down the stairs at each strap so as to put even pressure along the stringers. As you are pulling the stringers together you will have to make sure the treads align back into the dado's once you have the stringers pulled in tight and the treads are back where they belong. I would then lag the stringer into each tread (pre drill the holes first). From your picutres it looks like lagging in from the wall side might not be an option. In that case I would make some brackets and attach them under the stair and to the stringer. When I was all Done I would run a new 2/12 on the outside of the stringer to add some support. Like I said I am just another IT guy who has had to engineer some interesting fixes around my own homes. Hope I could spark an idea for you if nothing else.
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:26 AM   #24
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If you decide to pull the stairs together using the threaded rod, before you pull them tight, I would put PL adhesive in the joints where the treads and risers meet the stringers, tighten it all up. I would add several long screws through the stringers into the treads and risers as a final securing step. if you have too much threaded rod exposed and there is a risk of catching on it, trim off with cut-off wheel in an angle grinder.

good luck

rod
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:35 PM   #25
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If you decide to pull the stairs together using the threaded rod, before you pull them tight, I would put PL adhesive in the joints where the treads and risers meet the stringers, tighten it all up. I would add several long screws through the stringers into the treads and risers as a final securing step. if you have too much threaded rod exposed and there is a risk of catching on it, trim off with cut-off wheel in an angle grinder.

good luck

rod
Rod makes a good point about the exposed "rod". I wonder if he's just atuned to these situations?
To minimize the visual, you might use carraige bolts on the outside and a coupling to connect it to the rod under the stairs.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:08 PM   #26
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OK. A different tactic coming up!
I don't know why the carriage spread so much. Perhaps the stairs weren't installed correctly in the first place.
Why not knock out each tread and riser and replace them one by one? That way the stair will fit the opening perfectly and, while it would be nice to have a whole set of new stairs, the main pain of cutting new carriages would be eliminated as you'd use the old ones.
If you plan on re-carpeting, you could use a cheaper wood. Yes, no, maybe???
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:24 PM   #27
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These are basement stairs, they appear to be roughly made and were not intended to have risers. I'm guessing here but I'll bet that they were unsupported for many years and later a stud wall and carpeting were added. Since they did not have any wedges to hold them in place the nails were the only holding fastener, over time they spread. Now there is a wall on one side and who knows what on the other, given the amount of spread probably nothing.

If the other side is open and I would be inclined to do what mrgins suggested. Nock apart everything and asses what you have. If the treads are in good shape reuse them, if not replace them. I would drill 2 holes in each tread mortise from the inside out the diameter of the root of the screw. By drilling from the inside out you are assured of having the hole where you want it. Now it gets easy, one at a time put a tread into the mortise and from the outside using the same drill bit pre-drill the hole in the tread. Now use a GRK lag or a Timberlock lag and screw down until firm but not fully set, repeat for all. When all the treads are in fully seat the lag screws. For the risers pick up a Kreg pocket hole drilling jig, the small single hole will work. I think they are under $10. Drill pocket holes for the screws where the riser meets the tread at the top of the riser. For the back of the tread just drive a screw through the riser and into the tread.
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Old 02-16-2011, 02:52 PM   #28
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I would like to thank everyone who helped and tried to help. I want you all to know, I am finished with the small project. It ended up being a lot easier then expected. I was thinking the stringer was going to give me hell coming back together.

Here is what I noticed, but who can I really complain too… lol

I noticed and it gave me a slight problem.

The riser are the same width as the treads, which means, this already had to be spread further apart then it should have, when they put the riser on and when they carpeted the steps.

It’s hard to see in the pics, but shouldn’t it have been a little less then the width of the thread, so that the treads would fit into the dadoe.

Other then all of that, the steps feel nice and solid, kind of feel funny, as I have been use to the loose treads.
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:13 PM   #29
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did you put some PL on them as you pulled them together?? they will never pull apart again?? even if you take the threaded rod out.

rod
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:06 PM   #30
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did you put some PL on them as you pulled them together?? they will never pull apart again?? even if you take the threaded rod out.

rod
No I didn't. I still can, if I decide to go back and work on the risers. I still have slight space because of the risers.

I was thinking about using my dremel to trim the risers on the side so that I can bring the stringers together.

right now, I do not plan to remove the rods, I don't have a use for them with anything else. It worked out better then I was expecting.

When you say PL adhesive, i'm thinking some type of wood glue, or are you talking about something else?

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