Looking to redo plain oak cabinets from 1991. Help??

Rhizzlebop · 06-25-2009, 11:09 AM

Back to the topic at hand, of veneering the boxes. At this point, I have no preference of buying the peel ands tick veneer, or buying sheets of thin veneer and using tiny nails to attach it. I'm looking at whatever is the better option. I'm not concerned about it looking great for 10 yrs. But I am concerned about it looking nice for maybe 10 yrs.

Or, I can use peel and stick, AND put tiny finishing nails in various places as needed to hold it.

Thoughts?

skymaster · 06-25-2009, 02:12 PM

OK Lets presume these are vinyl over particleboard. I would find the least obviuos area, take maybe 180 grit and lightly sand , then use naptha or similar to really degrease and clean it.
Second, I would really try and find an IRON ON VENEER. Peel and stick I think will become an instant nightmare because you CANNOT ADJUST IT once it makes contact!!!!
The do make it. I have seen it in Lowes. This way you can position it much easier and more importantly WHEN you get it wrong you just heat and re-position.

7roses · 06-28-2009, 11:24 AM

I have several linear feet of bathroom cabinetry in very good shape from 1 master plus 1 guest bath. The guest bath sink and cabinet were replaced w/ a pedestal, and the master will be replaced w/.... something. At any rate, the cabinets are definitely coming out.

The old ugly laundry room cabinets are destined for the dumpster. You see where I'm going w/ this, of course. I'd like to reclaim the nearly 20 linear ft' (it's a really big master bath) of cabinetry for the laundry room, but it is not standard counter height, having been built for a bathroom. Short of having new boxes built, and just recovering the old doors and drawers, is there some way I can refit the cabinetry in its entirety to a new higher height. (The counters will of course be replaced.)

I know I always have the option to just leave them as is, but still top them w/ a new counter.

Thanks from a Newbie for any advice.

7roses · 06-28-2009, 11:25 AM

SORRY. Was trying to post a new topic, not reply to this one..... Apologies.

skymaster · 06-28-2009, 11:59 AM

7roses: sounds like you have the 29" bases. If you want to re use them and make em higher than either you or get a carpenter to make a base to mount them on to increase the height. In fact you could make it small drawers in the base and have extra space in the higher toe kick.

Rhizzlebop · 06-29-2009, 08:53 AM

Sky, thanks for the help. I've been working on a deck project all weekend so havn't had a chance to reply back.
I have looked online a little and am only finding the regular peel and stick veneer thus far but will look more.

I havn't checked Lowes yet, but I will look there soon.

So, your general opinion is, assuming I use the iron on, and do some fairly good surface prep first, that I wont be looking at peeling veneer in a couple years?

skymaster · 06-29-2009, 11:16 AM

Rhizzle: I wish I could say 100% positive but I can't. Your most most important thing is the PREP, look real hard for any signs of that vinyl lifting, if you do find any areas that are peeling I would be very very leery about all of it. Check with local cabinetshops for their suppliers, pretty sure you can find that veeneer with one of them.
Other option, would be cabinet skins, you will need the same sources to find it. If that is how you go than sand the vinyl off, clean off the dust really well, and use good ol titebond II or III.

skymaster · 06-29-2009, 11:21 AM

http://www.tapeease.com/hot_melt_sheets.htm

Rhizzle: Here is a place to start. Just go to Google and "search Iron on veener" if this isnt a site you want to deal with. I have nothing to so with it it is just the first site I found for ya

Rhizzlebop · 06-30-2009, 11:23 AM

Sky, thanks for the help and advice. I know you can't say for sure. It's just that, after the cabinet door guy said veneer would be a terrible mistake, I wanted to see what the deal was. The impression I've gathered is that it does work, if you do it right.

I'm liking the PVU glue thing method as it gives me more options to work with. I found a lot of stuff on oakwoodveneers.com

They even have some clearance maple for 99 cent a square ft for something called wood on wood, or maybe it was 22m paperbacked something? I have NO clue what those differences are.

I do know, the doors that guy made for my dad are maple, and they were stained to match his birch boxes from 1983. Well, actually, we took his boxes a couple shades darker (they were light) with Polyshades, and the guy used tinted laquer to do his maple doors, and they look great.

I love the cherry, which runs about 3 dollars a square ft. But, for 99 cent, I bet I can stain that maple.

I really love that caramel color I've seen. I don't know how else to describe it other than, it makes me want to lick the cabinet door, LOL ok, kidding,....slightly....

water lily · 07-02-2009, 04:15 PM

We refaced our cabinets and used Taylor Cabinet Door Company. They have their own refacing system that is wonderful, easy and fast to install (took us only one weekend). They have very knowledgeable sales staff that can assist you from start to finish of your project. I changed my cabinets from old painted ones to a beautiful maple wood shaker style with a clear finish. I am WOWed every time I go into my kitchen. My girl friends are trying to get their husbands to do their kitchens too, Taylor Cabinet Door Company will be their source for their projects too.

G.Barker · 07-09-2009, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop

Anyone else possibly have any thoughts on this matter?

Refacing your cabinets isn't hard to do if you have the right supplies & product to begin with. I redid our kitchen myself in White Maple solid wood with a clear coat finish in a Shaker Style. My reface project consisted of new doors and drawer fronts, new drawer boxes out of melamine with slides, side panels for the end of my cabinets and under the counter cabinets,precut veneer adhesive backed (use "wood" krazy glue if edges come up)for the front of the cabinets, soft close euro hidden hinges and all of the necessary hardware to install everything for only $1950.00. My doors are of cabinet maker quality and awesome looking. We were also on a budget so I made sure I got good quality as I would not be able to afford to redo them if they turned out to be of lesser quality. I went directly to the door manufacturer cutting out the middleman saving me money. I decided to use Taylor Cabinet Door Company after checking the out with the Better Business Bureau and others who used them for their projects on several DIY sites. Call them for a quote.

pattypetridis · 09-13-2009, 11:48 PM

have been following the posts for your cabinets. How did they turn out? Can you post pics please. I also am very interested in updating my kitchen...very similar dilema. your threads were very interesting and informative but i think i got lost along the way and was hoping to see how you made out with the cabinets. please post a pic.

many thanks patty

jongordo8 · 09-16-2009, 12:14 PM

I didn't see anyone mention this, so I will. Obviously you know that you are limited on color selection with wood staining, so I would advise wood dye. www.woodcraft.com is where I got mine, it was a simple process to apply and I went from unfinished oak cabinets to a red cherry/mahogany color that came out great. You would have to sand them all down though.