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Old 11-10-2011, 09:06 AM   #16
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


1x6 fascias & soffits

You only need the one 2x4 (in our case 2x6) attached to the ceiling.
The fascias hang off the 2x and the soffit was dadoed into the back sides of the fascias creating a very sturdy, lightweight box.

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Old 11-10-2011, 02:50 PM   #17
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


I gotta say. That looks absolutely beautiful!
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Old 11-10-2011, 03:48 PM   #18
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


I'm still having a hard time deciphering how you put it all together.

I don't suppose you could take a photo of a sketch, or draw something in Paint or something?
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:15 AM   #19
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


Quote:
Originally Posted by Thadius856 View Post
I'm still having a hard time deciphering how you put it all together.

I don't suppose you could take a photo of a sketch, or draw something in Paint or something?
Just a rough sketch but I hope it helps



The dadoed soffit is important for two reasons.
1.) It maintains a perfect reveal for the soffit and will never separate.
2.) During assembly you hang one of the fascias, slip the soffit in the dado and and then snap the opposing fascia onto the soffit.

note: my quick sketch says' dadoed soffit'. It's actually the fascias that are dadoed and the soffit is inserted into the slots.

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Old 11-11-2011, 10:34 AM   #20
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


That diagram is self explanitory. Ive always wanted to do the same but was discouraged at home complex it looked. I think im going to tackle this same project!
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Old 11-11-2011, 04:19 PM   #21
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


How would this look on a ceiling that isn't real flat? Not terrible but just an old plastered ceiling. Hope the cove molding hides any dips?
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Old 11-11-2011, 04:41 PM   #22
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There's no cove that I can see. Did you mean crown?
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Old 11-11-2011, 06:06 PM   #23
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yes, crown, sorry.
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:54 PM   #24
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


I like the through dado, but that means I have to be able to rip the bottom 1x piece (or top 2x piece) accurately, and I don't have a table saw. :\

Going to see if I can determine how many places I'd need to use threaded rod and try to determine a cost within the next few days.

I'll post my layout once I get a chance.
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:23 AM   #25
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


Been working on the plans a bit. I'm not at home, so I don't have access to the room measurements, lighting layout and desired coffer layout. As such, I can't figure out more educated project cost estimates. I did manage to get the hanging hardware more or less selection figured out. The big blue beat the big orange hands down in pricing on all but one item, at least viewing online for the location I frequent. YMMV in person.

Looks like I'll be needing no less than 10-1/8" of threaded rod each place I want to anchor (12-1/8" if it's really 2x8, I've forgotten the size). Pieces are available in 12", 24", 36", 48", 72" and 10' sizes. The pricing ($/in.) sweet spot seems to be 36", probably due to increasing manufacturing cost above that size, and larger potential margins for the shorter pieces from DIYers (like how a 2'x2' sheet of 1/2" drywall costs ~75% as much as a 4'x8' sheet, and sometimes more). Anyhow, at 36", I'd be able to saw them in half to make two pieces, each with one factory edge. It also gives me a little extra wiggle room at the expense of (potentially) a little extra waste.

I haven't decided if I want to with 5/16" or 3/8" OD rod just yet, but materials cost is within 4.5 cents per assembly between the two. Looks like it'll just come down to availability when I actually get to the store. At the moment, both look plentiful. Except for the fender washers for the 3/8" size, which aren't sold in any qty over 4. WTF Lowe's? This is the only place HD came lower than ~30% more expensive: larger packages of fender washers. Go figure. Still working on lumber prices and choices.

For the 2x4, should I choose dry hem-fir or green doug fir? For the 1x sides/bottom, is ungraded "whitewood" (s/p/f) suitable for paining or should I opt for the slightly more expensive "Select" pine?
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:40 AM   #26
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


Here's what I sketched up. My document sender went nuts lightening the color, so I apologize if it's difficult to read. The prices in blue are Lowe's and the prices in black are Home Depot. Notice that the fender washers are a different qty package. The 100-pk brings the unit price way down. Both are before any discounts.

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Edit: Load ratings are approximately 300# for 5/16" OD and 730# for 3/8" OD. At a planned 24" OC placement, both should be more than sufficient.
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:26 PM   #27
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


Quote:
Originally Posted by Thadius856 View Post
I like the through dado, but that means I have to be able to rip the bottom 1x piece (or top 2x piece) accurately, and I don't have a table saw. :\
I used a router to do the dadoes
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:16 PM   #28
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


Right. But with the direction you drew the dadoes in your diagram, the bottom piece would have had to have been a 1x5 (4"), ripped to 4" (3" from 2x, plus two " deep dadoes).

Anyhow, that's no longer an issue. I picked up an old Rockwell contractor saw today, so accurate ripping is now (well, actually as soon as I get everything dialed in) possible. :-D
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:46 PM   #29
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


I'll jump in kinda late.

Depending upon the grid of your detail, I don't think the whole all thread detail is necessary. If your grid is less that 6' or so, I don't think it is at all needed.

I would run the 2x4 perpendicular to the joists first and continuous. Then lube up the top side of the short sections with construction adhesive and pinch nail them to the drywall and toe screw the ends to the long 2x4.

Once you build the box beam and tie the whole thing together, those short sections will be very ridged and there is no chance they will sag under their own weight.

You may have already committed yourself to this bolting detail and there is no harm in doing it but sometimes the easy way is hard enough.
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Old 11-18-2011, 12:51 AM   #30
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Logistics of Coffering an Existing Ceiling


The ceiling texture is uneven enough that I doubt construction adhesive would get a good bond, even with the 2x screwed or nailed to the joists where they crossed. I'm of the impression that I'd have to apply a lot of upward pressure, and by a lot I mean in the range of enough to crush the drywall.

I'm going to map out an overlay with the joists to see where I could hit them with close enough spacing to not need the rod but still provide support. This texture/lighting/fan/register issue is just reall daunting to a newbie.

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