linen closet shelves question
I need some help fixing up our linen closet.
The original shelves were falling apart and at awkward heights, so my girlfriend ripped them out. Sadly after patching up the old plaster walls I didn't get to mark where the nails that originally held the blocks for the shelves were located in the wall before the girlfriend covered everything in paint (she is anxious to have this project finished).
I am now trying to put back up some boards to rest the new metal grate shelves she bought. After lots of knocking on the walls, trial and error with a stud finder, and drilling lots of little (well mostly little holes :whistling2:) I am pretty sure that the studs of the sides of the closet are in the corners. So there is one in the center of each side and then a stud in each corner.
My question is if I am using 1X2's for the sides and back, should I screw through the boards ends at a 45% angle into the corner of the closet to hit the studs (will this work, do I need to watch for anything to not split the boards and ensure I go into the studs, etc.)?
Also should I miter the boards so that they meet at 45's. Originally I was just cutting the boards to leave room between each to keep measuring simple, but when only screwed to the stud in the center they seemed to tilt a bit. I am thinking that counter sinking the screws could help that?
If I did miter the boards to 45s, are there any issues, i.e. the wall or the boards not being perfectly square, that I need to think about?
Also would a pocket hole be ideal, I have seen the jigs before, or would drilling at 45 by resting the bit on a mitered piece of scrap work? I have seen both suggestions for angled screws and wasn't sure the benefits/ problems with each.
Or is there a better way completely to do this?
Finding studs can be a pain in the butt sometimes. Closet shelving can be a pain in the butt too sometimes.
Without addressing specifically all you questions, this is what I do.
Layout the heights of your shelves with level lines minus the thickness of the shelving material. Make a plumb line to indicate the face of the shelving system. You have atleast the width of your 1x2 so prod away until you find something to screw to. The terminology I'm familiar with is "cleat" which refers to your 1x2 supports.
I like to attatch the sidewall cleats first since they're the main support. Countersink and toe-screw into the corner if need be, A pocket screw jig is ideal, but not necessary. Screw wherever you know you'll catch, but rarely are there studs where you'd like them to be. Don't bother mitering your corners. Butt seams are fine.
I normally end my cleats just short of the face of the shelving, 9:1 there won't be anything there to screw to...Toggle bolts and construction adhesive. Drill for your toggle bolts an 1 1/2" or so back from the end or your cleat, smear on the glue, hold the cleat in place and tighten the bolt. Then countersink and screw to the studs where applicable.
Thanks a lot. It is so easy to get frustrated and confused when things aren't working the way you thought they would.
What are the pluses and minuses of construction adhesive?
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:40 PM.|
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.