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Old 12-08-2011, 11:55 AM   #1
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Laser Level and Steel Stud Framing Question


Hello!

I am looking to get started on the framing of the attached photo. This column will be "free standing" and the rear portion will be plumb with the first floor wall and will require a section of the railing to be removed. The angled portion in the drawing will be above the door in the photo.





In order for this to go as smooth as possible I plan to mark out the location of the studs that will serve as the footing for the wall and mark the same lines on the sloped ceiling above. Most laser level I have found shine a vertical line not a single point aimed upwards. Does anyone know of one that does this? If it's expensive I'll try to find one to rent. Will I need to remove the drywall on the ceiling or can I find the studs and attach without removal, and only make circular holes for chimney and exhaust penetration?

Second, where the steel studs will meet the ceiling how do you manage the angles? Wood I understand, any reference of how to cut and attach steel studs? Since this attachment is due to be 15' above the floor and maybe 25' above floor in foyer I may hire this out. It also has to be framed three walls first, then all the HVAC work then wood stove which may or may not call for front wall framing to be complete.

This entire project if started has to be done by Nov. 17, 2012.

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Last edited by ChrisDIY; 12-08-2011 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:15 PM   #2
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Laser Level and Steel Stud Framing Question


you're going to need an auto leveling-auto rotating laser. one you can stand up or lay down as you need? will shut off if moved. cheapest I've seen is about $1,000! a hardware store near me says they rent one for $35.00 a day, I've never seen theirs. must be auto everything except speed of rotation can adjust that. either that or a plumb bob and keep double checking either way!

for angled studs you'll need a break to bend metal, an angle cut on wood would be more sturdy in my opinion. unless you've worked with metal studs a lot?

good luck
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Old 12-08-2011, 10:30 PM   #3
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Laser Level and Steel Stud Framing Question


I use this for steel stud framing, setting can lights, vents, and so on. It is great for vertical sight. Just put an x on the floor and you can find the beam above for placement or plumb.

http://www.toolbarn.com/bosch-gpl2.html
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Old 12-08-2011, 10:45 PM   #4
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Laser Level and Steel Stud Framing Question


Google "multi point laser level". Seems they go for about $150 up to whatever your threshold of pain is.
This one looks like it would work for you
http://www.amazon.com/David-White-48.../dp/B0007M6BCC
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Old 12-09-2011, 08:51 AM   #5
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Laser Level and Steel Stud Framing Question


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Originally Posted by coupe View Post
you're going to need an auto leveling-auto rotating laser. one you can stand up or lay down as you need? will shut off if moved. cheapest I've seen is about $1,000! a hardware store near me says they rent one for $35.00 a day, I've never seen theirs. must be auto everything except speed of rotation can adjust that. either that or a plumb bob and keep double checking either way!

for angled studs you'll need a break to bend metal, an angle cut on wood would be more sturdy in my opinion. unless you've worked with metal studs a lot?

good luck
coupe
I have never worked with steel studs. Framing needs to be of all non-combustible materials. What I guess I need to determine is whether I can transition to wood and if so how far above the wood stove?
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Old 12-09-2011, 08:42 PM   #6
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Laser Level and Steel Stud Framing Question


Steel framing is n but tot to hard but to change steel framing to wood on what you are trying to do will be hard.
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:17 AM   #7
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Laser Level and Steel Stud Framing Question


on the two sloping walls you could just run the track with the angle and cut each stud to fit the slope, deep leg track will make this easier. I would order the metal studs a little longer than needed and cut to fit and would use 18ga metal for this height. I would also apply 2 layers of 5/8'' drywall and tape the corners on each layer, alternating the joints inside the shaft. this is for fire rating. the long metal studs can be ordered from a commercial supplier. As far as the laser level, Bosch makes a pretty good one for about 150 and can be bought at the depot. if you don't want to buy one use a plumb bob, but this will take 2 people.
hope this helps.
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:15 PM   #8
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Any recommendations as to whether I should attach directly to ceiling drywall or do I need to cut and remove drywall? I have access to attic above and can install blocking from above. Insulation was blown in and trying to save myself some work. This will wind up on section that is flat and partly on slope.
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Old 12-11-2011, 10:27 AM   #9
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Laser Level and Steel Stud Framing Question


When using metal studs, you will use metal track for the top and bottom "plate". As mentioned earlier, use a deep track. I have used slip track that was 3' deep. The laser can be found from DeWalt, Bosch and others some have 3 points some have 5 points some are rotating and provide a line. Home Deep by me rents them, and if you set up all your tools and ladders and have a friend to help, you should be able to mark all your spots in a couple hours tops.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:17 PM   #10
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Laser Level and Steel Stud Framing Question


as long as your screws are long enough, there is no reason to remove the drywall for your top track, and probably would be easier for for drywall and finishing touches to not remove any. you can just mark where your track is and drill a hole in the center of it to see up in the attic where to get your blocking close (i assume you're ending up somewhere between 2 joists and aren't able to directly attach to them).
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:54 PM   #11
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Laser Level and Steel Stud Framing Question


Have you checked with the local AHJ, yet? Especially this part---" What I guess I need to determine is whether I can transition to wood and if so how far above the wood stove?"

Local codes sometimes are stricter than general safety codes. Our City will be implementing federal air quality guidelines requiring registering of all existing wood stoves within the next few years. You will not want the new chase to overload the existing floor joists if adding facer stones, fire-stopping is required, other possible concerns to meet your homeowners insurance coverage, etc.

Gary
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:31 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Have you checked with the local AHJ, yet? Especially this part---" What I guess I need to determine is whether I can transition to wood and if so how far above the wood stove?"

Local codes sometimes are stricter than general safety codes. Our City will be implementing federal air quality guidelines requiring registering of all existing wood stoves within the next few years. You will not want the new chase to overload the existing floor joists if adding facer stones, fire-stopping is required, other possible concerns to meet your homeowners insurance coverage, etc.

Gary
We may have to switch to a zero-clearance unit. To reduce weight may only apply the fascia stone on front and sides and only to height of the "mantle." I am beginning to think more about going this route since the supply and exhaust for the new high efficiency furnaces can be ran in PVC and that's much cheaper and easier to work with than steel pipe. Will probably still use steel studs since they are "straight" and can be ordered in lengths long enough. Main reason this is being done is to get return for HVAC closer to ceiling. Wood stove is a way to disguise what would be an odd column.

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