Between the window are studs from 4 ½ to 4 ¾ inches that I am using a 1 x 6, ripped to 4 ¾ and then sanding down to make flush.
My plan: I was going to run the trim between the windows, from the bottom stool to the top of the inside of the window. (leaving about ¾ inch at the top) Once the middle (between the windows) are complete. I was going to use 1 x3’s on each end. Then top all the windows across the top with ¾ rounded trim. Then another 1x4 with crown and return on each end.
Craftsman style should be simple and white oak trim not pine. http://www.craftsmanperspective.com/
There's many books with examples of Craftsman style homes inside and out.
Thanks I just wanted to make sure I was on the right track. Can you tell me the major difference between pine and oak. This will all be primed and painted gloss white.
It's craftsman if it's that profile and design. Does not matter of it's painted or not. Yes, much original trim from that period was stained oak but not all of it by any stretch.
Use pine. Cheaper and you can more easily find the profiles you'll want.
Here's an example of a very similar style in my house. This is in our living room which I'm currently renovating:
The width between your windows is going to determine the dimensions of the rest of your trim. Ideally you want a 1/4" reveal from the trim to the casing on each side. The middle trim piece(s) between the windows then determines the width of the trim on each side, more or less. The detail piece above the vertical trim can be 3/8" x 2" mullion ripped down to the proper depth and mounted with the curve down. Then your build up, probably 1x6, then the architrave like WM-53. The important relationship is between the vertical trim and the crown build up. Make sure the build up is taller than the trim is wide.
Not sure I agree with this.. Not saying its wrong but if the rest of the house has 1x4 casing and the windows have a wider casing it would look off to me. Good advice on the header at least being bigger than the casing. Only other thing I would do different would be hang the parting bead past the header/casing 3/4" on each side( like I said not wrong just personal preferace). Im doing a job now with the exact same detail... I'll get a pic when I can get back to work. Stuck in this ice storm in the Pacific Northwest.:huh:
I think it just has to be in close proportion to the top and side casing. The stool also needs to be proportioned correctly so it all blends in. I think you're right about the parting bead and would also add that the head casing could also extend 1/2" beyond the side. It all depends on the customer
The parting bead on my trim overhangs by 1/2" at the most, but that is it's depth in front of the head casing to it makes sense. I for one would NOT extend the head casing farther out than the side. In my house they both line up and I think it would look really strange if they did not. I suppose it is a matter of preference and the design of the rest of the trim in the house.
1st thanks to all for the info. It's coming along.
Question: what do you make the top of the header with. Bed or crown moulding and what size. My 1x's are 4 inch wide ripped from a 1x6. Sizes go 3/4 inch Bead board,4 inch high 1x...total 4 3/4 high ...( now I'm stuck on the topper)
Thanks again
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