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Old 01-28-2013, 09:31 PM   #16
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Kreg Jig Screws


They also sell plugs to fill the holes in about 5 or 6 different species of wood.

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Old 01-29-2013, 07:46 AM   #17
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Is there one store that's better than others to buy the plugs and other parts? I got this at Lowe's and they have a good variety, but I don't remember seeing that many of the plugs or some of the things I've seen people using in the YouTube videos.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:42 AM   #18
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Rocker is where I get mine....I have a store within a few miles but their internet shipping is also quick.

woodworkbykirk.....thanks for correcting me on the lengths....not sure why I had 1 1/2" on my mind....I use 2 sizes.....the 1 1/4" and 1 1/2"....90% of which is the 1 1/4".

Regarding the plugs....I have never used them. 90% of what I use pocket screws for is faceframes...the holes are in the back of the faceframe so you don't see them.

One last thing.....let me stress the importance of clamping the material as woodworkbykirk mentioned when driving in the screw. I use a clamp to hold them both pieces flush against the table then I use another clamp to pull them tight against each other. That way the screw does not pull the material up causing a mis-match in the front surface.

When you clamp it right, you end up with a joint with no detectable lip....I'll assemble the whole faceframe without glue....once I'm happy with it.....I take it apart, stain the pieces (except for where the glue goes) then re-assemble using glue.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:26 PM   #19
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with some types of wood, mdf being one of them if you pre assemble then re assemble to glue it you run the major risk of stripping out the hole leaving no holding power.. this is why mdf door jambs dont work. .if you take the screw out once your..... um screwed. you have to switch that screw to a longer one to bite into the framing
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:44 PM   #20
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I see what you mean about clamping the two pieces properly. There were 2 times when I thought I had the clamp on properly and it didn't hold.

I noticed it immediately when I started the drill and one piece of the wood came out of the grip of the clamp. It left a gouge in the mdf. Not a big deal, but had it been a nice piece of wood that was damaged, it would have mattered.

The 2nd time it happened, I reacted to it quicker and the gouge was smaller.

I think what I did wrong on one of them was not centering the clamp over both pieces of wood evenly. And the second time, the two pieces that were clamped together were slightly different in size. One was maybe 1/32" thinner than the other. That's just a guess of the size difference, but the point is the clamp held both of them but when I put pressure on the smaller piece, the clamp couldn't hold it.

I guess it's like anything else where it takes time to learn the little details of what to do and what not to do.

It's fun though. I can't wait to get it out again.

I'll take a look at the rocker website. Thanks!

The mdf does strip out pretty easily. One of the screws I drove in never did catch. It just kept spinning. I might have been pushing it too hard, but I doubt that real wood would have done that.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:16 AM   #21
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Quote:
I see what you mean about clamping the two pieces properly. There were 2 times when I thought I had the clamp on properly and it didn't hold.
Pock-It Hole Clamp

When you're working with hardwoods, a common issue is splitting the wood. I've found that using QuickScrew's Quick-Cutter fine thread pan heads to reduce or eliminate that problem.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:50 AM   #22
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Kreg Jig Screws


I thought I knew what size screws I use but now I am not sure, I will have to check and see. There is no need to buy the plugs, drill a hole with your pocket hole jig in a block or board, put a dowel rod in the hole and cut it flush with a bandsaw or table saw, the bandsaw is much safer and don't waste as much. Push the first plug out and throw it away as it isn't cut right the rest of the plugs will fit perfect. You can cut the plugs right in your jig, put the dowel in the drill dit hole and cut off the part that sticks out, put the dowel rod in the work piece and cut flush with a flush cut saw.

I use the regular large thread sheet rock type screws and have never had a problem with them. I will check to see what length screws I use after while.

I couldn't see paying what they asked for the jigs so I made my own, here is my jig.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:54 AM   #23
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I still haven't tried mine----soon----
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:45 PM   #24
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I still haven't tried mine
I love mine. I'm not much of a woodworker. In fact, that's an understatement. But with a Kreg I was able to make decent joinery without many tools. The maple bed I made for my son was in their newsletter a few months ago, and my first project was cherry cabinetry for my master bathroom.

Not bad for a guy with a drill and a circular saw.

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Old 01-30-2013, 04:06 PM   #25
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I've been making furniture and cabinets without one for a long time---so a few days one way or the other won't make much difference---

I have the little one ,just to try it---I also have my eye on a fancy one from another company that has 4 holes and a clamp-----If the little one speeds up my work,I'll spring for the fancy one when I get another face frame job----
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:11 PM   #26
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i love my Kreg Jig. Never even so much as drilled in a screw before i got my trailer, and i got the Kreg Jig to make my cabinets. I have learned a few things during the construction of the two cabinets.
1. Clamp it. Every which way possible, because it will move if you dont.
2. Dont glue until you are sure it is going to work, because once glue gets inside the pocket hole, its not moving. Ever.
3. Dont drill the pocket holes on carpet. Bad idea.
4. Make sure your clamp is tight enough to hold the jig, because if it moves mid-drill, you're screwed.
5. Keep a firm grip on the drill when you go to remove it from the jig, because it will slam your hand into the wood, which hurts like hell
6. Pay close attention. If you drill the pocket hole into the wrong side of the board, it sticks out like a sore thumb.
7. Dont try to use pocket screws with a piece of 1/2" birch. It splinters and cracks.
8. make sure your screws arent too long, because it will pierce the face frame.

and you dont need to spend money on the wood plugs, use wood putty instead. It keeps the screw from backing out in the future. It dries the same color as most raw wood, except red wood, and you can paint it. Just be sure to sand the rough edges once its dry.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:21 PM   #27
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when you clamp down you material to drive the screw dont have the clamp in direct contact with the wood. it wont clamp even enough and it can dent the wood. .use a small chunk of scrap wood that spans both peices then clamp

as for using wood putty for filling the entire pocket... dumb idea really.. a void that large requires quite a bit of puddy which will shrink which means doing several passes to get it even and thers more chance of the oil in the puddy bleeding into the wood if your using stain grade which looks terrible.. use the plugs glue them in then shave them flush with a fine flush cut saw then sand. done with. its how cabinet builders who use pocket hole screws do it. much better finish
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:15 AM   #28
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Well it probably wouldnt work for stain but if youre painting like i am, it works fine. its easier for a DIYer to do it this way because an inexperienced hand using a flush cut saw has major potential of becoming a mess when the saw digs into the wood
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:26 PM   #29
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wood filler shrinks, hte flush cut saw is very easy to use and it requires sanding anyway. that deals with any small scratches

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