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Old 03-15-2013, 11:10 AM   #1
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Knee Wall Construction


I need some advice on the framing of a small knee wall to separate the shower from the rest of the bathroom.

The specs of the project:
5' x 7' bathroom - first floor
Shower area size 60" x 32"

Knee wall is only going to be 29" wide x 36" tall.

I would like to know the proper way to set up the knee wall. This drawing is what I have come up with and would like to know if this is the correct way.

Thanks!
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:58 AM   #2
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Knee Wall Construction


That would be more then strong enough, as long as that right hand side is also attached to a stud or some block inside the wall.

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Old 03-15-2013, 12:35 PM   #3
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Knee Wall Construction


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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
That would be more then strong enough, as long as that right hand side is also attached to a stud or some block inside the wall.

Yes it will be attached to a stud on the right side. I was told I should use bolts with washers and nuts instead of the lags as well. So that may be even more stable...

I just need to sink one stud through the sub-floor correct? I was looking at other scenarios and some had 2 through the subfloor.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:19 PM   #4
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Knee Wall Construction


I just tore out the subfloor during the remodfel and realized I was off with my measurement of the knee wall. The post will fall between the floor joists now. I cannot bolt directly to the joist.

What's the proper way to connect in this case? I am thinking of blocking set up like an "I" to connect in that manner...

ThanKS!

Last edited by zephed666; 03-17-2013 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:27 PM   #5
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I have used threaded rod to run down through the floor and literally bolt the knee wall to the floor. Add some 2x blocking underneath (flat to the subfloor) for additional strength....
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Old 03-17-2013, 05:58 PM   #6
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Knee Wall Construction


Quote:
Originally Posted by zephed666 View Post
I just tore out the subfloor during the remodfel and realized I was off with my measurement of the knee wall. The post will fall between the floor joists now. I cannot bolt directly to the joist.

What's the proper way to connect in this case? I am thinking of blocking set up like an "I" to connect in that manner...

ThanKS!

that should work, make the " I " the same size ( width ) as the joists and make them 3 1/2" apart ( thickness of wall) and set two outside corner studs between them. nail the I really good at the ends to the other joists and bolt through the I and through both studs. Also add side blocks to the I where it butts the other joists to help keep it on a vertical plane.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:09 PM   #7
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Knee Wall Construction


If the knee wall is a part of the shower area, I would be using BluWood http://bluwood.com/ for the framing. Can you post pictures of the space in question, so that we can get an idea of the big picture.
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:00 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
If the knee wall is a part of the shower area, I would be using BluWood http://bluwood.com/ for the framing. Can you post pictures of the space in question, so that we can get an idea of the big picture.
It is a small bathroom, and the space is limited - 5x7. Knee wall will only be 29"x32"

But I have another issue after tearing up the floor. Not sure if I should start a new thread or post here. I'll post here and in a new post if need be...

After removing the bathtub and subfloor I noticed the floor joist was notched to allow the drain room to be set up. this bath tub has been in the house for over 45 years so I am assuming the notch was done during initial construction of the home. Do I need to repace this joist or can this be fixed in a different manner? It is very difficult to replace or sister it up with another joist since all the plumbing from the house runs through this area. Attached are some photos. One from above and one from below and an image of the dimensions....
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Knee Wall Construction-img_3490.jpg   Knee Wall Construction-img_3491.jpg   Knee Wall Construction-joistnotch.gif  
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:07 PM   #9
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Wouldn't hurt to "sister" at least a piece (as long as you can manage to get in there) onto the joist that is notched.
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:16 PM   #10
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They are usually notched like that when you have a drum trap, but should have a joist within 8" from that one, which it does not appear. Old homes are like Divorces. A PITA to deal with, and takes forever to get through the mess the previous problems left, that you have to work out, before you can move on.
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:47 PM   #11
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It is amazing to me what some of the plumbers and HVAC guys did in the past. I guess they didn't have things like hole saws.

Re the short wall just block between the joists, and fasten to the block. Block both sides for super strength. Use min 2 x 8 and hold to bottom of sub floor to support same.
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:51 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by bjbatlanta View Post
Wouldn't hurt to "sister" at least a piece (as long as you can manage to get in there) onto the joist that is notched.

so the sister joist doesn't have to run the entire length of the notched joist?

I have room to put a 36" piece of 2x8 next to it. Does it need to be that long and should it be bolted on or should I use glue and 3" deck screws?
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:54 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by jagans View Post
It is amazing to me what some of the plumbers and HVAC guys did in the past. I guess they didn't have things like hole saws.

Re the short wall just block between the joists, and fasten to the block. Block both sides for super strength. Use min 2 x 8 and hold to bottom of sub floor to support same.

what do you mean hold to hold to bottom of subfloor to support same?
Attaching the subfllor to all 3 joists in your example?
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:36 PM   #14
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Hole saws?? Hell I've seen them use chain saws!!
Sure, running the "sister" full length would be best, but if you can't you can't. Three feet will be better than nothing. I'd just glue and deck screw it. a piece on either side (if you can) would be a good idea. Notch around the 2"x4"s so the board(s) fits against the subfloor is what jagans was referring to I believe. I agree with that.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:42 PM   #15
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Hole saws?? Hell I've seen them use chain saws!!
Sure, running the "sister" full length would be best, but if you can't you can't. Three feet will be better than nothing. I'd just glue and deck screw it. a piece on either side (if you can) would be a good idea. Notch around the 2"x4"s so the board(s) fits against the subfloor is what jagans was referring to I believe. I agree with that.
Oh, the 2x4's from the photo that supported the subfloor...
I would remove those and add the sister pieces on both sides of the cutout and then put the blocking back after the sister joist was in place...

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